SUSP: rear disc conversion

[timmy0tool]

this DIY was made almost a year ago. i just realized i never posted it here so here we go.

for the longest time i wanted to do this swap on my 92 accord LX. after much debate, i finally decided to do it and got my hands on a set of rear discs complete with everything that i needed. it was all for $240 from a local junkyard.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d9920ca5ad00000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

here are some pics i took as i installed them on halloween day. the installation is very straightforward (bolt-on). total installation time was 8hrs by myself. that included bleeding, e-brake cable adjustment, and test drive.

prior to installation
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d807fac5c500000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

off the car
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d8dea0856b00000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

side by side comparison
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d87163c56700000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

finished product
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d9b48e240c00000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

for sale: 180k miles
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d9cb8ce59900000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

for your enlightenment, i replaced the whole trailing arm, knuckle, and upper arm. i used the original LX soft lines and EX e-brake cables. ABS sensors were discarded. one section of the exhaust heatshield was removed to access the e-brake lines. one portion of the exhaust pipe was unbolted but not removed. the proportioning valve was NOT touched. for now, i don't feel that it's necessary to swap it out. so far so good. the braking is much more positive but it just started to rain and i wasn't able to test it out fully. i'll keep you guys posted.

with shoes on
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d8cc1585d700000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

with shoes on up close
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf27b3127ccec2d9dbace5b100000010O00AatWLRs3buG IPbz4G/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

NOTE: i am not responsible for your actions. extreme care is necessary when dealing with suspension and brakes.

[accord885]

hmm.. id love to do that... just have to find some read disks now...
good job.!

[mixmatch]

is it just me or are the upper control arms on the disc brake setup smaller and more curvy than the ones on the drum brakes?

do you feel any difference in the handling along with the brakes? or is it just the better feel of the brakes you get out of it?

[timmy0tool]

accord885: yeah finding the rear suspension set was hard. i went to a lot of junkyards, and oddly enough the closest one to me had it. it's out there; you just need to look for it. good luck!

mixmatch: the upper arms are exactly the same. it may look smaller in the pics because of the angle. handling-wise, it might have gotten sloppy since the bushings on the set were beat and a bit aged from sitting in the sun. it should handle the same since it's essential the same part. the braking is affected though. it's like night and day! my drums sucked in the first place anyway. i couldn't lock them when i yanked it while driving. with the discs, i slide all day long :D . like i said, the feel of the pedal became positive. braking as a whole improved dramatically.

NOTE: this was on the stock pads that were already on the caliper as it came from the junkyard. i didn't even resurface the rotors.

[ironman85]

did you have to remove the rust from the disks? or did simply braking get rid of it? my local junk yard has a pair of rear disks from a '95ex but i havn't gotten them yet cause they're rusted.

[timmy0tool]

Originally posted by ironman85
did you have to remove the rust from the disks? or did simply braking get rid of it? my local junk yard has a pair of rear disks from a '95ex but i havn't gotten them yet cause they're rusted.
typically you supposed to have the rotors turned just to make sure, but i didn't have to. i just slapped them on. and yes simply braking got rid of the surface rust. it really depends on how bad the rust is. over here in cali, it rarely rains so the rust wasn't that bad. i even used the pads that came on the calipers.

on top of the actual assembly and rotors, you should check the caliper piston seals, bushings, and brake lines when you get your set though. make sure they are in good condition before placing them on your car.

[wed3k]

good stuff, makes me want to change out my front and rear brakes.

[olivrooom]

Hey Tim, I'm too lazy to do mine. I've had the whole setup in my garage since September of last year. Wanna come over and do them for me. I'll pay you in parts... one-pieces and folding mirrors? Hahaha! I'm partially serious. Hit me up, bro! Peace!

[91cord]

does it matter what year accord or can you get the discs of a 90-97 accord like all the other suspension parts?

[timmy0tool]

Originally posted by 91cord
does it matter what year accord or can you get the discs of a 90-97 accord like all the other suspension parts?
all 90-97 rear suspension bolts right up. be aware that some DX/LX cars did not have holes in the cross member for the OEM rear swaybar brackets. so you might not be able to run an OEM rear swaybar. this is just a heads up. my LX did not have the holes for the sway bar brackets so i was not able to run an OEM swaybar. i purchased the suspension techniques rear swaybar to compensate (since ST doesn't use the stock bracket locations). having the rear sway bar makes a HUGE difference. the difference is even more apparent if you are used to not having one at all (DX/LX owners).

other than that detail, all suspension components from the trailing arm to the upper arm to the brake lines, are all the same for accords 90-97.

[alphainspire]

so are you still using the stock proportioning valve?

[Weezo182]

lucky me my cb7 is already rear disk:boink:

[too.slow.CB7]

a buddy of mine had bought some rear discs off of a 92 accord for his 90.... he bought a V6 CD accord so he just gave them to me to put on my 90 CB7..... the guy he got them from cut the brake lines on the disc..... do i need to buy new brake lines or can i use the lines from the drum system...... -justin-

[timmy0tool]

alphainspire: yeah i'm still running on the stock prop valve. it's been almost a year already and it's still performing well. i had to brake really hard on the freeway twice this year and i locked up my tires everytime, leaving the freeway's groove mark on my tires (at the same time, i'm lucky i didn't hit anyone else). i'm running on 215/45/17's so that pretty much tells you that my brakes are adequate enough to not need another prop valve; maybe not yet ;) . you can't lose on upgrading to a 40/40 though.

Weezo182: lucky you! i'm one of the many DX/LX and 90-91 EX owners who have to deal with drums in the rear. well not for me anymore :D .

too.slow.CB7: kudos on getting a set! now hopefully you have the e-brake lines/cables attached since you NEED those. the soft brake lines can be replaced with the lines on the drum system. there is also a secondary soft line on the disc trailing arm (which goes directly to the caliper) and hopefully you have those intact (most likely you do anyways since most people cut the primary line). just make sure you have the e-brake lines/cables as the drum system is not interchangeable.

[alphainspire]

timm0tool: thanks for the info regarding the prop valve.

I did my swap on Saturday and everything went smoothly. I bought the 40/40 prop valve just in case but I didnt swap it out.

The swap wasnt that hard, took me and some friends about three hours to do.

I already had stainless steel brake lines, so I swapped out the rears with a new set of brake lines as well. I couldnt use the steel brake lines from the drums because there is an extra hose that runs to the caliper. So I purchased an EX set and just used the rears.

As far as performance, I would say now that the braking is much more linear. Before with the drums, I felt as though the front brakes were doing a bit more work to stop the car. Now it feels as though the rears are doing a little more braking then before.

Pedal feel is good as well, Im gonna stay with the stock prop valve for now.

No more silly drums for me!

[olivrooom]

Just a heads up. If you happen to buy the disc conversion and it doesn't come with the upper balljoints, be ready with a joint seperator and a sledgehammer. I'll post pics up as soon as I upload them. And thanks again to Timmy for all the help!

[Kabuki]

Just to make your search easier... The rear knuckles from the vigors will work for this conversion too. You can also CONVERT your existing knuckles by swapping the hubs, bearings, backing plates, rotors, and calipers seperately.

[hectic702]

whats up yall,just found me a set of 96` rear disks and all but a buddy of mine said something about the master cylinder?have no idea why. but i guess its something to do with getting fluid to the rear. HOLLA AT YA BOY

[hectic702]

whats up guys,found me a set of rear disks off a 96'.Do you have to do anything to the master cylinder?How does brake fluid get to the rear?want to know befoer i swap .THANKS

[HondaFan81]

Timmytool: So you retained the stock smaller brake master cylinder, brake booster and proportioning valve...but are happy with the results. I am curious if you were to purchase these items, if you'd notice a difference in braking. Did you replace the rotors? Where these calipers in good working order, or did you get remanufactured units?

Just FYI for those doing this conversion:

The rear discs come on CB7's with F22a6 engines + the 93 LX 10th anniversary edition. These setups have a different brake master cylinder, brake booster and have a proportioning valve. Some install these components in doing the conversion, but I guess you can get away with working brakes without them. Using this brake master cylinder however, since it has a larger bore with this larger brake booster will decrease the amount of work needed to brake, compared to not using them. Now it'd be interesting to actually compare the two setups and see if you noticed a significant difference.

I personally plan on doing the BMC, booster, prop. valve change.

[timmy0tool]

hectic702: you can replace the master cylinder but it's not necessary (read below why). the fluid gets to the rear via brake lines just like it would on the drums. the drums are mainly hydrolic. the cable is just for the e-brake.

HondaFan81: i bought the whole set at a local junkyard. yes i retained the stock smaller brake master cylinder, brake booster and proportioning valve and i am happy with the results. any car would benefit from any upgraded parts but my stock setup all worked fine for me. the proportioning valve could make the most difference due to a better braking bias between the front and rear wheels. typically people use the prop valves off the DA integra RS (non-ABS) which are stamped 40/40. they are bolt on, but i find the current accord one to be fine. the EX/SE booster is the same i believe. the EX/SE master cyl is only larger by a few mm. it's not worth the effort unless your current set is already failing (we do have 12+ year old cars).

i have great braking feel up to now (it's been a year and 2 months now). it is more positive and responsive compared to the drums. what more when you upgrade to stainless steel lines; i don't have them though. going 65mph, i can lock up my 17's with 215/45 tires on the freeway.

i got lucky with my parts. it was all in good condition and complete down to every brake line i needed. as for the calipers, they were in decent condition so i didn't touch them. my rotors were pretty decent as well so there was no need to resurface them. when you get a set, i recommend that you change the pads, resurface the rotors, and overhaul the calipers just in case. you never know what car or condition they came out of. i chose not to do any due to the satisfactory condition my set was in. i'm still using the pads that they originally came with from the junkyard!

[krakakru21]

my buddy is going to be giving me his discs off of his 92 accord(what a dumbass) and i am going to be giving him my drums. my question is when swapping them will it unbolt and bolt up with no problems or is there different lines i need to use. he will be getting my whole drum setup and i am getting the entire disc setup. my lines are going to his car and his lines are coming to mine. please let me know ASAP becuase i am going to be doing it shortly

[timmy0tool]

dang that's a really good deal and yes your friend is a dumbass for doing this. anyway yes it will unbolt and bolt up with no problems at all. you just have to make sure you remove the correct parts. don't forget that you will need the emergency brake cables on top of the regular brake lines. just remove the whole suspension assembly.

from the donor car, remove the:
-upper arms from the chassis
-WHOLE lower crossmember (so you can use the rear sway bar too!)
-trailing arm from the chassis (near the jackpoints along the sideskirts)
-regular brake lines
-emergency brake lines

of course there are obvious things you have to remove in order to remove the parts i just listed (like the exhaust heatshield in order to remove the emergency brake cables).

just remember that you CANNOT transfer over the ABS sensors and lines so just leave those in the donor car. cutting them might trigger the ABS light in the instrument cluster of the donor car. good luck man!

[RocSteadyNy]

dang that's a really good deal and yes your friend is a dumbass for doing this. anyway yes it will unbolt and bolt up with no problems at all. you just have to make sure you remove the correct parts. don't forget that you will need the emergency brake cables on top of the regular brake lines. just remove the whole suspension assembly.

from the donor car, remove the:
-upper arms from the chassis
-WHOLE lower crossmember (so you can use the rear sway bar too!)
-trailing arm from the chassis (near the jackpoints along the sideskirts)
-regular brake lines
-emergency brake lines

of course there are obvious things you have to remove in order to remove the parts i just listed (like the exhaust heatshield in order to remove the emergency brake cables).

just remember that you CANNOT transfer over the ABS sensors and lines so just leave those in the donor car. cutting them might trigger the ABS light in the instrument cluster of the donor car. good luck man!


why can't you change the abs sensors?

[f22-dohc]

did mine last week!!!!

sick!!!!!

[phatdoughnut]

I swapped mine over, and i also upgrade my front brakes to the Ludevtec 11.1in rotors and calipers. I need a new Master cylinder!

on to another important question. i took all mine of the doner car along time ago, so i cant remember where the mounting points are for the sway bar, any help?

*edit*

Nevermind i know why i cant do it, i dont have the stabilizer brackets that the bushing a C clamp thingy attach to the chassy. ***!

[gutterslide]

are rear disks rotor over hub?

[timmy0tool]

are rear disks rotor over hub?
yes they are. i don't believe a hub-over-rotor exists out there.

[According2Me]

so when doing this conversion the origonal sway bar wont work... so youd have to use the rotor systems sway bar?

[bracersi]

Dayum good write up. That is gonna be my next upgrade :tu:

[zipcreature]

THere is a nice set of these in the junkyard. I told him $240, and he said "per side maybe!".

How much did you pay for the rear disks?

- Zipcreature

[zipcreature]

bump.

- Zipcreature

[cp[mike]]

im selling my set to a friend for ~180...

i say dont spend anything over 250.

[timmy0tool]

so when doing this conversion the origonal sway bar wont work... so youd have to use the rotor systems sway bar?
an OEM bar can work if you swap over the rear crossmember as well. the 92-93 EX/SE crossmembers have the holes for the sway bar brackets. all trailing arms have a hole for a sway bar be it a DX, LX, EX, or SE etc.

note:
90-91 EX has a rear sway but are still drum brakes.
all DX/LX never came with a rear sway standard.
all accords with rear discs have rear swaybars.

[Ronald_Type-R]

BUMP for an old thread!! hehe I have a question for y'all...I'm getting a set of rear discs...Comes with upper arms, brake lines, etc etc EXCEPT for trailing arms...My friend told me that the discs will bolt up fine with the trailing arms that I have now (w/ drums) He said that he's done some research, and the part number for trailing arms w/ drums are the same with the ones w/ discs...

Jus curious if anyone can plz confirm me on this matter...I jus want to make sure that these babies will bolt up fine on my trailing arms, so that way I won't have to look for trailing arms for discs..hehehe can anyone plz help me on this?? Thx in advance!:D Oh and pic below :bouncy:

http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/5990/reardisks9mh.jpg

Ronald

[micksf22accord]

I have the whole thing for sale



$210


Off a 92 ex coupe

[Ronald_Type-R]

Thx bro, but I actually already got those things that is on the pic...It's jus at my friend's house, and I haven't got time to pick 'em up yet...That's why I'm asking you guys to check if I can use my stock trailing arms with the discs...

Thx for the offer tho man :)

Ronald

[micksf22accord]

Thx bro, but I actually already got those things that is on the pic...It's jus at my friend's house, and I haven't got time to pick 'em up yet...That's why I'm asking you guys to check if I can use my stock trailing arms with the discs...

Thx for the offer tho man :)

Ronald


lol i know your buying that one

Im trying to sell it to someone reading this thread ROFL



please buy it

brand new pads!!!

new rotors 3 months ago

please buy :(


It needs a home

[uslspct]

Thx bro, but I actually already got those things that is on the pic...It's jus at my friend's house, and I haven't got time to pick 'em up yet...That's why I'm asking you guys to check if I can use my stock trailing arms with the discs...

Thx for the offer tho man :)

Ronald

Yeah, it will be fine. Just more of a hassle to bolt them up.

[timmy0tool]

yeah ronald the trailing arms are the same but it will be a bit harder to do, but not impossible. the ebrake cables on the drums go through the trailing arms unlike the cables on the discs which only outline the trailing arms. other than that and some more bolting and unbolting, you should be fine!

good luck with the install and post pics when done!

btw, it looks like the set you have in the pic is missing the screws that holds the rotors to the hub. make sure to not forget that ;) .

[Ronald_Type-R]

Hehehe ok ok glad to hear :D Thx for the confirmation guys!! And Timmy, I'll make sure that I'd have those screws before I install everything..Thx for the heads up, I wasn't paying attention to that at all..hehehe :oops:

Ronald

[91accordwagon]

Alright lets see how many of ya out there know your wagon shit, My 91 Wagon has bigger drums than the sedans and coupes of that year, am I going to have issues when swapping to the disc rear?

[timmy0tool]

Alright lets see how many of ya out there know your wagon shit, My 91 Wagon has bigger drums than the sedans and coupes of that year, am I going to have issues when swapping to the disc rear?
hmm i don't think the drums differ between the wagons and the sedan/coupes. it's only the front brakes that differ. you shouldn't have any problems swapping to rear discs on a wagon.

[mikey d]

anyone still got rear disk stuff for sale?

[JDMCB3Si]

i do mikey. hit me up and we can get you swapped.

[immeraufdemhund]

by the looks of it (i'll find out for sure on wednesday...2days from now) if the rear discs from a 89 acura legend fit. i'll have to post pics if they fit, but just by eyeballing it it appears to fit. I have to try soon though. I'm thinking that i'll just hook it up and leave off the ebrake cause that doesn't look like it will work...hopefully i can figure a way to make it work. till then peace!

[vmchurch]

anyone currently sellin parts for the swap?? I'm looking to get rid of the drums asap since they happen to be leaking like a bitch. Lemme know

[owequitit]

I know it isn't an ideal solution, but I do have a set of rear drums that I would let go cheap. Complete rear suspension if you want it. I'll even throw in a brand new set of OEM Honda shoes with it.

Just a thought. If you are dead set on rear discs (now would be a good time to do it), you shouldn't have to look to hard to find a donor.

[vmchurch]

thanks for the offer, but i figure since the drums are shit and i wanted to swap someday anyway, nows a good time to go ahead and do it

[91whitecb7]

i have a prelude that im parting out in my backyard.. could i use the lude parts for the conversion?

[91whitecb7]

anyone know?

[owequitit]

The suspension setups are so similar it would definitely be worth a shot. The subframe might be different, but I would imagine that it would be interchangable with the Accord one. The "platform" for the two cars is the same, so if I had to guess I would say yes.

You should give it a shot and let us know.

[timmy0tool]

NO! they will not work. prelude rear suspension is very different! the only thing you can use are the disc rotors and hubs, brake calipers and lines (cable and hydrolic). you will not be able to use the trailing arms.

prelude 92-95
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13ss00_j13.gif

accord 90-93
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13sm20_j11.gif

[owequitit]

SEE!!!!!!!!

I told you not to do it! LOL.

Seriously though, I stand corrected.

[91whitecb7]

SEE!!!!!!!!

I told you not to do it! LOL.

Seriously though, I stand corrected.

THANKS A LOT MAAN!!! haha sike na.. damn i thought it would work.. damn.. well.. ill see what i can do with it.. ill let you guys know..

[Sobeman81]

damn Mr. Timmy. good job on the writeup man...you will not believe how long i have searched for something like this...now if only i can get enuff money to do it.. and um owequitit..good job on almost sending 91whitecb7 down the wrong path lol..that was pretty funny..pe@ce love and chicken grease from the middle east..


SHO

[Gripology]

Thanks for the info about the swap...I was hoping it wouldn't be a huge headache to do and you made the whole thing sound fun. I guess the biggest problem is going to be finding the parts! thanks again!

[owequitit]

NO! they will not work. prelude rear suspension is very different! the only thing you can use are the disc rotors and hubs, brake calipers and lines (cable and hydrolic). you will not be able to use the trailing arms.

prelude 92-95
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13ss00_j13.gif

accord 90-93
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13sm20_j11.gif

I have been thinking about this, and while true, it is atypically Honda. The 84-91 Lude stuff pretty much interchanges with the 82-89 Accord and we all know the 97-01 Lude stuff pretty much interchanges with the CB and CD cars...shouldn't have tried to make an educated guess I suppose. :shrug:

[Gripology]

i just got the parts to do the swap on my 91 accord. i talked to a guy at my local shop and he quoted me $250 to do the install. Is that a lot? I could do it, but don't know if i have the time or the knowhow. The parts i got are from a 90 accord and the mechanic said that the e-brake assembly is different from 90 to 91. True? or will i have to do something to mod the e-brake to get it to work? i haven't had a chance to get under there and look yet.

also, if you are in the los angeles area (i think they ship parts too), i got the disc assembly at HONDACURA PALACE. WWW.HAPIMOTORS.COM. they charged me $150 for the set. Another wrecker quoted me $250. Just thought i would pass that info on.

[owequitit]

As far as I know, it is impossible for you to have a disc setup from a 1990.

It may be a 91 SE though.

Mine is a 90 and the brakes on mine came off of a 1992-93. They had an offset ebrake handle due to the center console, but the cables and cable mounting bracket under the car were identical. I had ZERO problems or fitment issues.

[Gripology]

they told me 90, but you are probably right. they looked just like the pic from Timmys' write up, which i took with me. Hopefully will get a chance to do the deed this weekend (if it's not raining)

[owequitit]

I meant to say the ebrake cable bracket on the tranny tunnel too by the way. Just wanted to clarify.

[timmy0tool]

yeah i used 92-93 parts. they should bolt up perfectly. make sure you have the ebrake cables. finding and installing them is a pain. i did a conversion on a 90-91 and it bolted up fine as well. you don't have the worry about the cable not reaching the ebrake handle etc. good luck!

NOTE: i've been to honda acura palace and i've purchased parts for my 5-lug swap there. the components are in terrible shape (due to being outside within the elements sun, rain ,etc). please make sure to check the bearings (even if they are sealed inside) and check the brake calipers. most likely the bearings will be fine but the calipers will need a rebuild. please double-check! you will need new rotors and pads too. $150 is a great price but you will need to invest for newer rotors, pads, and an overhaul on the calipers.

[owequitit]

I would make the same recommendation. Mine were outside in the dry desert, and could use a rebuild. It is on my short to do list.

You can't be too safe with that kind of thing.

[dualacord]

" it was all for $240 from a local junkyard."

Thats pretty price I just got both of them from a junk yard for $108 bucks yeah thats pretty cheap I will send pics of them later tonight got to go laterz.

[Gripology]

i'm doing the swap this weekend. i will check into the calipers. as it stands now, my drums arent really doing much for me (locked up the front yesterday coming down a hill and it felt like the rear was just spinning away willynilly saying "oh! you wanted us to stop?". anyway, i'll do the swap, and if the rears need work i'll prolly feel it on the test drive.

i checked that the rotors would spin freely without warp or weird sound before i bought them. i didn't hear anything that would have made me think twice. the only thing on the parts thats rusted (and not even that badly, makes me think they might not have been in the elements long) are the rotors. I checked the pads and they look almost new. I will take photos as i do the job and post if anyone wants to see them. Thanks for all the info again folks!

[dualacord]

Well here they are just recently pulled off a 92 EX at a local junk yard.
----------------------------------------------------
Little surface rust but the pad wear will do the trick.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb17House002.jpg
Came with everything good pads, calipers, and rotors.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb17House005.jpg
Got it for $54x2 pretty decent price.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb17House006.jpg

Plan on doing the swap from drums to all disk this weekend.

[hondacc90]

Look how easy it is to do the rear disc conversion on our beloved Accord.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/hoacc90/58516.gif

[dualacord]

Look how easy it is to do the rear disc conversion on our beloved Accord.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/hoacc90/58516.gif

:tu:

[Gripology]

looks like you got the ball joint with your stuff. mine didn't have that so i hade to go and get the tool to separate them. i lazied it and didnt do the e-brake cable. my frustration level rose to high with the ball joint that i just cut them. my mechanic said he could put new ones in for cheap. :tu:

i did this swap today. one thing i noticed was when i was bleeding the lines there was rust in the one line i saved. i bled the lines twice to get them clean. just an fyi.

[owequitit]

Look how easy it is to do the rear disc conversion on our beloved Accord.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/hoacc90/58516.gif


It is a good diagram, but as with many things in life it isn't that easy. Believe me, I thought of tryin that first.

Do you notice one small minor component missing on the disk setup part of the diagram?

A caliper perhaps?

The rear knuckle from the drum setup has no accomodation for it. The material isn't even there to accomodate drilling and tapping. I suppose you could find a machine shop to do it, but good luck with that.

Also, while you can just use the rear knuckle from a rear disk car, it is actually easier to just replace the whole rear suspension. There are 12 bolts and the anti-roll bar to replace the whole thing... there is almost that many on one knuckle. :shrug:

Besides, 1992-1993 Accord EX's aren't that hard to locate in the junkyard, and the rear suspension shouldn't be very expensive. I paid less than $100 for all of mine, but average about $120.

[dualacord]

looks like you got the ball joint with your stuff. mine didn't have that so i hade to go and get the tool to separate them. i lazied it and didnt do the e-brake cable. my frustration level rose to high with the ball joint that i just cut them. my mechanic said he could put new ones in for cheap. :tu:

i did this swap today. one thing i noticed was when i was bleeding the lines there was rust in the one line i saved. i bled the lines twice to get them clean. just an fyi.

Yeah I have a ball joint seperator I planed on removing the upper control arm but, its not a bad thing to have more then one thing. What happen to using the ball joint seperator works like a charm for me. That sounds pretty risky no e-brake line you must have an automatic. Yeah I bleed the brake lines anytime I work on them of couse Im going to bleed them a few extra times when I get to the conv. I plan on getting to it very soon got to caught up this weekend at the junk yards.

[Gripology]

i re-bled the lines and got a little more crap out. the pedal feel much stiffer now. i used the ss lines from my drums from the chassis to the tubing, and will replace that extra one to the caliper later. pulled the wheels off today just to tighten things down and double check the lines for leaking. everything looks fine. dead batter on the camera so no pics. sorry.

i took the oportunity today to really step on the brakes (same spot i locked up the other day with the drums) and shit! no lock up but really felt like the front and rear were working together. i have to say, all the mods i have planned, this is the one i think will impress me the most. :tu:

:offtopic: :offtopic: is there a paint brand or type to use on the calipers? thought it might be fun to paint them for when i get rims. show em off if you know what i mean :)

[Gripology]

i have an auto for now. thats the next major modification i'm hoping to do. i would love to get a 5 speed in there. this is my first honda and first automatic tranny...got the car for a cool $1 from brother in law so i couldn't pass on it.
my wife wants me to tint the windows and get wheels first. so 5 speed is prolly 6 months away. i priced the e-brakes lines new for $90. looks like i might be able to install them..week or two and i'll do that. and yes, not having e-brake is a little weird.

[dualacord]

Anyways to get back to the subject $90 for some e-brake lines sounds a little pricy. Well peace man.

[timmy0tool]

wow congrats on completing the installation but i would not have installed them until i had all the parts. i know you have an auto so the parking lock can just hold the car but that stresses on that little fork as well as the seals (compression) in your cylinders. so take care of that soon. you never know when an "emergency" will happen and you will need that hand brake (knock on wood). again congrats!

have you considered changing the proportional valve? that will improve the braking as well. just a thought!

[Gripology]

thanks, your help was invaluable. i'm going to order the e-brake lines this weekend and install next weekend hopefully. i don't like that the ebrake isnt there if i need it.

[dualacord]

Here are some pics of what I got done today.
-Total spent $116
-Disk setup-$108 local junk yard
-Brake fluid and brake clean-$8 CSK
-------------------------------------------
Removed heat shield and dropped the exahaust for the e-brake cable
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb25House019.jpg
Removed braket assembly and cable.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb25House024.jpg
Before with the drums.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb25House013.jpg
After with the disks. Still have to throw up the heat shield and exhaust.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb25House027.jpg
Old setup
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb25House034.jpg
New setup
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/Feb25House026.jpg

I spent 5 man hours alone and I would have to say this is a pretty simple task for a do it youselfer. :tu:

[owequitit]

Swwwweeetness. I know you will love it. I know I do. The only problem I am having is what to do with 120 lbs of high tech Honda drums.

[dualacord]

Swwwweeetness. I know you will love it. I know I do. The only problem I am having is what to do with 120 lbs of high tech Honda drums.

Haha yeah no shit dude I dont even know what Im going to do with my drums either. I will probably just hold on to them or find some who is dumb enough to want them lol. Yeah I was slamming on my brakes to see if there was any difference and I would have to say that all disks brakes kick ass dude. :tu:
peace dude.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/hacord22/2006accordeuro3.jpg
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anybody interested in some drums.

[OnE eYe GuY]

alright, so ive been reading this, and according to the information ive found, i can only do the rear disc conversion by using junkyard parts. I hate to say this but around my area there are never any cars newer than 1980 in the junkyards. and if there are, theyre already stripped.im doing a 5 lug swap/rear disc conversion. the 5 lug is pretty straight forward, i just need the rotor/hub to do it. for the rear disc conversion im having a couple issues. exactly what parts do i need? i have rear calipers, rear rotors, and the hubs. am i going to need trailing arms? hydraulic lines? i need a list of what i need so i can go into honda tomorrow and order everything.

[Gripology]

if you look at page 4 you will find a diagram of the drum setup and the disc setup. you might (don't know what you've bought so far) have a the parts you need already. :tu:

[owequitit]

In addition to what you already have, you will also need the rear knuckle from a rear disc CB7. The drum knuckles DO NOT have an accomodation for the rear caliper mounting.

Some people claim that 94-97 knuckles also work, but everyone I have run across places the lower control arms an additional inch apart. You can't get around that without machining the knuckle or changing the rear subframe. I have seen internet DIYs that did successfully use a 94-97 set of knuckles with no modification, so it is likely that there were just two slightly different rear suspensions.

If you are doing the rear 5 lug, it may also be possible to use the rear knuckles from a 1997-2001 Prelude.

There is a DIY on it here somewhere... I will see if I can find it.

The brake lines are different, so you will probably need those, and the e brake cables as well.

[SSMAccord]

In addition to what you already have, you will also need the rear knuckle from a rear disc CB7. The drum knuckles DO NOT have an accomodation for the rear caliper mounting.

Some people claim that 94-97 knuckles also work, but everyone I have run across places the lower control arms an additional inch apart. You can't get around that without machining the knuckle or changing the rear subframe. I have seen internet DIYs that did successfully use a 94-97 set of knuckles with no modification, so it is likely that there were just two slightly different rear suspensions.

If you are doing the rear 5 lug, it may also be possible to use the rear knuckles from a 1997-2001 Prelude.

There is a DIY on it here somewhere... I will see if I can find it.

The brake lines are different, so you will probably need those, and the e brake cables as well.

the CD knuckle is an inch longer, but i can work with the lower arms on a CB, as long as you have the longer bolt from a CD. Also, CD e-brake cables are too long to operate correctly, so stick with CB cables and everything should go smoothly.

[owequitit]

the CD knuckle is an inch longer, but i can work with the lower arms on a CB, as long as you have the longer bolt from a CD. Also, CD e-brake cables are too long to operate correctly, so stick with CB cables and everything should go smoothly.

When I had the CD knuckle, a longer bolt wasn't going to solve the problem. The front lower control arm lined up perfectly, but the rear control arm wanted to sit on the OUTSIDE of the rear subframe. That is where the change of rear subframe came in. You can either machine an inch off of the knuckle, so that the rear lower arm will sit in the right spot, you can change the rear lower subframe, which supposedly bolts up, so that you can accomodate the 1 inch spacing difference, or you can get a CB rear disk knuckle. A longer bolt wasn't going to solve the problem.

Also, the CD ebrake cables that I had bolted up to the CB chassis perfectly...

[SSMAccord]

Odd... my swap used CD5 rear knuckles mated to my cb7 control arms and the only thing i needed was the longer bolt. If I was with my car i would photograph it and upload the pics.(spring break is next week, i'll have time to take photos) But, given my experience, CD knuckles can be used with the CB7 subframe.

[owequitit]

Like I said before, there appears to be two different versions of CD rear suspensions. Mine wasn't going to fit a CB and there are people who have said that theirs did. Mine were from a coupe, although I have also seen at least one four door with the odd spacing as well.

[dualacord]

Do you have problems finding replacement pads??? I called my local Advance Auto and they said they dont carry rear pads for the 90-93 accords.

No problems at all. :tu:

[LoDollar92LX]

i just did my conversion on the car today. the rear knuckle assemblys cost me 75 bucks, and it took an hour and a half to install them. i also got the ex rear swaybar and threw that on there also. pretty slick swap if u ask me. brakes seem better too.

[Spartan1987]

I really should do this.
Maybe after I get my rims and new tires mounted...
Bump for a good DIY. :tu:

[Abeerdrinker]

I finally did my rear disc conversion. I did 4 projects in one since my car was gonna sit on the lift for a while. So I did a SS 2.5 exhaust with a header to muffler and I did a sus drop to 3 inches with AGx's and Tenz coilovers. Since my exhaust was off and my shocks where taken out I decided to do the rear drum to rear discs as well. I must say the most annoying part was the removal of the heat shields since most of the bolts was so rusted. Other then that it was a very very easy straight forward exchange. You must have a cordless impac gun. I really didnt car if the bolts broke since I cut the bottom shock bolts anyhow with new bolts on hand. I did motor mount inserts except for the front which I am waiting to buy from a Cb7tuner member and finally put my VC on

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2298000-2298999/2298444_41_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2298000-2298999/2298444_40_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2298000-2298999/2298444_42_full.jpg

O yeah I had to change my Oil sensor since my oil light kicked in to ruin my weekend of work. You can see the little box on the ground

[buckt3]

I got a 96 (CD) Complette rear end for free so i swaped it. The only ploblem i am having is the brakes go to the floor i blead all the brakes and it still goes to the floor. And comments world be useful.

[timmy0tool]

the obvious answer is that you have a leak on a line somewhere. check to make sure you didn't leave a bleeder valve open. also make sure your brake lines are attached correctly. when i did my swap my master cylinder took a crap so it may also be that. keep checking for leaks and get back to us.

[buckt3]

no leaks, master cylinder new (honda), ss flex lines, new front and rear pads (honda), new front calipers (honda). Still low brake!! I even power blead the brakes still low :confused: .

[timmy0tool]

can you tell me your method to bleeding the brakes? when doing the entire system you have to start from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. then work you way towards the closest one.

[buckt3]

I have a power bleader and yes i start at the passenger rear tire then the driver rear, passenger front, driver front

[Night Wolf]

what are all the parts that Ill need for doing this conversion?

[sublime]

i need to do this swap asap...

[bakedaccord_90]

i have the parts just sitting there in my room :D
i need to make sure i have all the parts
so i can do this swap soon

[JDM_EJ]

Im in the process of doing this swap I have the driver's side suspension off...but my schedule has been preventing me from finishing up...so my rear end is just "floating" there in my driveway...lol...It is fairly easy...especially if you have an impact wrench...my only concern is the e-brake cables...does anyone have any pictures of the underside of the tranny tunnel and what the e-brake braket looks like and how to remove it? I know that I will be able to do it once I see it...but I want to be prepared...thanks.

[Spartan1987]

TimmyOTool: If you don't mind, could you possibly post pictures of everything you installed, including the sway bar so we know what to look for, and also of the brake lines, I would GREATLY appreciate it.
I found a set at my junkyard, but am unsure as to what I need to get. They are just sitting next to the car and I really want them bad. Let me know :thumbsup:

[LinX]

Well, Im not timmytool but I'll be willing to help since I went to a junkyard and did the same thing. Basically you need to grab the rear knuckles, that is what has the spindles on them so the brake rotates. Also, the trailing arms which mount the knuckles under the car. If you want you could take the upper control arms and install them on your car. Thats the bar that is hanging from the balljoint. You should already have them though. Make sure the system comes with calipers too. Along with this, there are brake lines that you'll need. Keep your brake lines and grab the emergency brake lines that come attached on the knuckles. Other than that make sure the disc's spin and the lines look good. Sorry for no pics but I hope this helps atleast a little.

[Spartan1987]

Well, Im not timmytool but I'll be willing to help since I went to a junkyard and did the same thing. Basically you need to grab the rear knuckles, that is what has the spindles on them so the brake rotates. Also, the trailing arms which mount the knuckles under the car. If you want you could take the upper control arms and install them on your car. Thats the bar that is hanging from the balljoint. You should already have them though. Make sure the system comes with calipers too. Along with this, there are brake lines that you'll need. Keep your brake lines and grab the emergency brake lines that come attached on the knuckles. Other than that make sure the disc's spin and the lines look good. Sorry for no pics but I hope this helps atleast a little.

Most certainly does. :thumbsup:
But I do need to know what the swaybar looks like.
Also the car I am looking at has them off on the ground next to frame and chassis, so IDK if I can get to the lines and If I wanted the bigger BMC it's gone b/c this junkyard pulls all their engines (all of the junkyards around me do.) So basically I need the pics in order to just go up to the front desk and say I want this and how much.
If any one has some, please either post them here or PM them to me. I test drove a new 6-speed V6 Accord and man those disks are something I envy.
I really want to do this soon along with an H22 swap, which i am getting quotes for.
Thanks again :tu:

[LinX]

If you're talkin about the stock rear sway bar, then you gotta make sure you grab some knuckles that have the accomodations for them. Aftermarket sway bars like 'suspension techniques' have a different mounting location so it wouldn't matter.

[Spartan1987]

Yeah I was planning on it. good to know about the knuckles too. thanks man

If you're talkin about the stock rear sway bar, then you gotta make sure you grab some knuckles that have the accomodations for them. Aftermarket sway bars like 'suspension techniques' have a different mounting location so it wouldn't matter.

[owequitit]

If you're talkin about the stock rear sway bar, then you gotta make sure you grab some knuckles that have the accomodations for them. Aftermarket sway bars like 'suspension techniques' have a different mounting location so it wouldn't matter.


The knuckles don't have the accomodation for the rear sway bar. The trailing arms do.

[Spartan1987]

The knuckles don't have the accomodation for the rear sway bar. The trailing arms do.

Oh, Well I think the whole thing was on taken off and just is sitting next to the vehicle anyways.
Bad thing is though is that it's going to rain, and makes me wonder how long they've been getting rained on.
If i get them I will definitely have to get them resurfaced, was hoping not to have to.

[LinX]

*knuckle assembly

[zipcreature]

Still wish I could find a good set of used brakes in my area. DUCK!

- Zipcreature

[timmy0tool]

Oh, Well I think the whole thing was on taken off and just is sitting next to the vehicle anyways.
Bad thing is though is that it's going to rain, and makes me wonder how long they've been getting rained on.
If i get them I will definitely have to get them resurfaced, was hoping not to have to.
it could be just surface rust. that's what mine was. just let the brake pad remove it and hopefully it's not warped. what you should worrry about is the integrity of the brake caliper and wheel bearing (though the bearing is sealed).

and the rear lower crossmember has the holes for the rear swap bar. if you have access to a full car, remove the crossmemeber too since it's only held on by 4 bolts. you just basically need the trailing arms and all that's attached to it minus the upper and lower arms (same), ebrake cables, and the soft brake lines. you'll see when you're doing it!

[Spartan1987]

it could be just surface rust. that's what mine was. just let the brake pad remove it and hopefully it's not warped. what you should worrry about is the integrity of the brake caliper and wheel bearing (though the bearing is sealed).

and the rear lower crossmember has the holes for the rear swap bar. if you have access to a full car, remove the crossmemeber too since it's only held on by 4 bolts. you just basically need the trailing arms and all that's attached to it minus the upper and lower arms (same), ebrake cables, and the soft brake lines. you'll see when you're doing it!

good good, but the problem see is that the frame is sitting completely on the ground, and the control arms and the rotors, the whole deal is already disconnected and laying right next to where the tires used to go, but I will check again soon. Thanks man :thumbsup:

[Spartan1987]

here is a good representation, lol of how the car is at the yard. It used to have a spoiler, and rear mudflaps, but I got it now. :evil:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/Spartan1987/Busted.png

[JDM_EJ]

here is a good representation, lol of how the car is at the yard. It used to have a spoiler, and rear mudflaps, but I got it now. :evil:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/Spartan1987/Busted.png

have you considered a career in Graphic Artistry? LOL...

Kinda looks like the rotor is buried under ground...haha...j/k yeah...the rotor is sitting on the ground next to the car right?

[Spartan1987]

yeah man that was cut and paste in paint all the way dude, lol. :tu:
haha yeah the setup is on the ground, maybe they will take that pic as payment and then I'll be riding in style :bouncy:
hell I'll even cut and paste togethera picture of an H22 if they'll give me one. :evil:

[haccord992h]

Great DIY!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Just got mine for $90 in Juarez, Mexico..

[timmy0tool]

wow $90 is a steal for these. have fun with the swap. it is VERY straightforward and simple. i'm always glad to see people benefit from this. don't hesitate to hit me up with any questions you have :tu: .

[haccord992h]

wow $90 is a steal for these. have fun with the swap. it is VERY straightforward and simple. i'm always glad to see people benefit from this. don't hesitate to hit me up with any questions you have :tu: .


Thanks, as soon my slotted rotors arrive i'll start with the install.

[haccord992h]

Done it!!!!!!!!
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/cb7inspire/HPIM0714.jpg

[SOHC on dis]

Nice write up i have to go do mine too.I got mine from a junk yard Free!I guess it helps if you work there.

[npor]

so what type of rear discs should i look for from my local junkyard?


prelude? 94-97 accord?

[djcaz_aom]

accord.

[npor]

okay..so i went to the yard yesterday and looked...


since my wheels are tilted in some from the accident..i was looking to see if any of thoes cars were the same..

all the wheels were either turned in....or out....even if the car has absolutley no damage what so ever. is this normal?

[Boost_Lee]

just wanted to bump this...

i got a 92 trunk and the rear disk setup for 100 bux! But i need to go back and get the E brake cables...

[npor]

okay..so i went to the yard yesterday and looked...


since my wheels are tilted in some from the accident..i was looking to see if any of thoes cars were the same..

all the wheels were either turned in....or out....even if the car has absolutley no damage what so ever. is this normal?


somebody answer me! :(

[cp[mike]]

of course its not normal to have wheels facing weird directions...?

if the car is sitting lower than stock, the wheels will look like they are tipped inward. if its higher than stock, they will look tipped outward. just based on the physical design of a car suspension. what exactly are you talking about?

[npor]

noo...like...


okay, like 4WS. the wheel is turned inward, or outward a little. but..on usdm accords. just about every car i saw up there, the wheel was either turned inward, or outward.

but. i went today..and the only troublei 'm having is with the ebrake! how the hell am i supposed to get it off with both the ebrake, and all of the regular brake cables?

[npor]

bump for a very urgent ebrake cable question!!!

[Ronald_Type-R]

Disconnect the e-brake lines from inside the car (Right behind the e-brake handle), and then go underneath the car and follow the e-brake lines..Along the lines you should see clips bolted on to the chassis..Those clips hold the e-brake lines in place..Soo wherever you find the clips, take off the bolt that holds it in place, aaand once you manage to get them all off, you should be able to pull out the whole rear disc assembly out of the car wit hthe e-brake lines attached to them :)

Hope that helps..

Ronald

[npor]

thanks alot man.

i'll update whenever i get the parts from the yard. :angry:

[timmy0tool]

the rear tires of most cars have a toe IN meaning the rear driver side for instance if looking directly at the tire looks like it's going to turn to the right. that's normal. camber is normal too if you lower the car esp on the rear. if your car is something else then i would be concerned. take a pic and show us.

[npor]

hmm, okay. i think i got a way to show you.


insted of being like |---|
it's like /---|

but not as drastic. and that's not looking at the car in terms of camber, i'm talking about the direction the wheels are facing. like looking at the wheels from above.

but...are you saying that's normal?

[Ronald_Type-R]

You probably should take your car to an alignment shop and see what they say...I mean, your car did get hit from that side after all..By the look of the pics that you posted last time, it seems to have a bit too much toe-in..But maybe it just looks like that from the angle where you took the pics :p

Have you checked the suspension components, see if anything's bent?

I believe my rear has -0.5 toe in on both sides..Not much really, you can barely see the difference..

Ronald

[wed3k]

sweet, i have the arms with bearings/hub sitting on my back porch. just need to track down some calipers.

need to hold off because im going to be receiveing my custom ITB's this week (hopefully)

[aleks77]

hey quick question, i have a 1992 ex-r with rear disc brakes, this is my parts car, and i wanna do the swap, does this have the 40/40 proportioning vavle or does it have to be bought off a integra? thanks!

[The G-Man]

The valve needs to be from an integra. The Accord one will not work because it is different because of the ABS system that you do not have, nor need.

[djcaz_aom]

Okay, so when I got the wagon, I was like: EX, YES! F22A6 YES!

I did my brakes and NO!!!! I don't have the discs in the rear.

Today's task: Rear disk convertion. I will post pics tonight.

[djcaz_aom]

The difference is like night and day!!!!

Great write up. :tu:

[PRIMESNIPER]

I just took of the rear drums this past weekend and it was easier than expected. Just recieved some Powerslots rotors and all that I need now is new calipers + brake pads. I will finish :bouncy: the rest of the conversion this coming weekend.

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Thanks for the post, I'm hoping to maybe give this a shot in a month or so once it quits snowing here in freakin Indiana in April...

[LinX]

Yo primesniper, I saw that picture of your rear discs today. Nice shiet man, lemme know if you need ANY info or help bro.

[ukaccord92]

i wanted to add , that ive done this rear brake conversion on my non abs 96 accord at the moment the brake fells softer not enuff grip .... mind you i havnt changed the master cylinder etc as yet .. ive notice the number on the booster for my car reads nm255 my bros waggon reads nm260 and the sir reads nm290 . now for the master cylinder , at the top where the resovior has a very tiny ball bearing and some other mc has two ...what should i lookin for to replace on my accord to make the brakes fine ...
need answer asap

[90accords]

try getting the proportionong valve and the master cylinder for a 4 wheel disk setup...... should help the feel. and make sure the brakes are bled well

[timmy0tool]

just change the proportioning valve first. use one from a non-abs car with rear disc such as a 90-93 integra (with NO ABS). typically cars with rear disc have ABS. you need a proportioning valve from a car originally with rear discs and WITHOUT ABS.

also the master cylinder tends to go bad after a converions, i don't know why but it did for me. replace that at the same time as the prop valve so you only have to bleed once through. good luck!

[2.2litrebeater]

search ebay for integra 40/40 valve, there is one on there now :thumbsup:

[Tnwagn]

Bump for a sick DIY and djcaz_aom where are those pics :confused:

[djcaz_aom]

Bump for a sick DIY and djcaz_aom where are those pics :confused:
They are in my member's ride thread. Sorry I forgot to post 'em up.

[wed3k]

i dont think it ever mentioned how to take the e-brake cables from the e-brake.

well, 2 12mm bolts and some manuevering of lines and you are there. i wasnted to add this because i was confused where to disconnect them add but found it within the car. (this was after i took the entire exhaust system and heatsheilds off!)
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/album220/DSC00212.sized.jpg

oh and the result, yay (victim is a 91 accord coupe)
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/album220/DSC00211.sized.jpg

[aleks77]

ya im in the process of doing this right now :)

I got a question, what do you do with the ABS sensor at the bottom? it has a wire running to it, so i cut that, but should i take the abs sensor thing out? looks like 2 12mm there

[seigneur_rayden]

i dont think it ever mentioned how to take the e-brake cables from the e-brake.

well, 2 12mm bolts and some manuevering of lines and you are there. i wasnted to add this because i was confused where to disconnect them add but found it within the car. (this was after i took the entire exhaust system and heatsheilds off!)

Can U please rephrase that properly because I can't get what U R saying
:confused:

[Ronald_Type-R]

Disconnect the 2 e-brake cables from the e-brake handle IN the car :)

Take off the center console and you will see two lines connected to the e-brake handle...Disconnect the two, and pull it from underneath the car..

The 2-12mm bolts are for the bracket behind the e-brake handle assembly that hold the lines in place (pictured above)..Just unbolt it so that the lines come loose and you can easily pull them out of the car..

Hope that helps :)

And yeah, for the ABS sensor, if your car doesn't have it, then just take it out..Oh wait, all CB7 with rear drums don't have ABS do they? Haha then there ya go, take 'em out..That's what I did..

Ronald

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Sorry for the stupid question, but why do we need to remove them?

[The G-Man]

I am in the middle of this (seriously, one side has disc the other drum still). I thought I would be able to line up the knuckle by myself, but there was no damn way it was happening. I had my brother help me. Of course I pretty much know what I am doing because I had to remove the knuckle at the yard.

[accord junkie]

yeah that is awsome that there are others who have done this cause i was planning on taking rear disks off of my ex-r since the tranny is messed up but i was worried about abs but no more worries thanks guys.

[bakedaccord_90]

just finish this last week

it took we about 4 days to finish cause I forgot to order the longer bolts to connect
the arms and the knuckle. it was the weekend. I used the 96 rear knuckles if i would have used the 92 93
ex knuckles it would have been easier. If not I would have been done in one day.

the old drums :thumbsdwn
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g264/baked_213/IMG_2909.jpg

the knuckles waiting to be installed
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g264/baked_213/IMG_2910.jpg

the power tools i used they made the install fly by
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g264/baked_213/IMG_2911.jpg

the knuckles install on the car :tu:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g264/baked_213/IMG_2918.jpg

braking does feel better :tu: but I am still going
to install the integra 40/40 proportion value

[dark_stalker]

i need to do this on mine too

[icedplaya123]

Well about a month ago i did the rear disc conversion on my car. Everything worked great, but now when i pull on the ebrake, it doesnt make a clicking sound and i can feel that its only holding the passenger side rear....I'm not sure what i should check or what i can do. Any suggestions?

[Ghetto_CB7]

Went to the junk yard and asked for the parts listed.

from the donor car, remove the:
-upper arms from the chassis
-WHOLE lower crossmember (so you can use the rear sway bar too!)
-trailing arm from the chassis (near the jackpoints along the sideskirts)
-regular brake lines
-emergency brake lines

and this is what i got for $150 :bouncy:

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x52/ghetto-thirdworld/IMG_1056.jpghttp://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x52/ghetto-thirdworld/IMG_1059.jpg

And i picked up a set of ex wheels with tires for $100 :bouncy:
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x52/ghetto-thirdworld/IMG_1060.jpg
They are still dirty I haven't cleaned them yet.

[i-07]

i want to do this to my car some time in the future. :wavey:
p.s. found a lot of them near me the ex accords and the integras w/o abs.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Old Off
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x52/ghetto-thirdworld/IMG_1062.jpg
New On
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x52/ghetto-thirdworld/IMG_1065.jpg
Back on All 4's
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x52/ghetto-thirdworld/IMG_1070.jpg

[i-07]

sweet!! looks cool :tu:

[F22Turbo702]

Just FYI for anyone doing this swap using 94-97 CD parts...you need to make sure you get all 4 lower control arms and the bolt that holds them to the knuckle...I just started doing my rear disk swap today and went to bolt up the CB lower control arms and the bolt is about 1.5" too short...the cast area on the CD rear knuckle is wider than the CB's, even if you have the right bolt, the LCA's will bow out, causing untold suspension horrors. Waiting for the wrecking yard to bring me CD rear LCA's and the bolts tomorrow morning... :thumbsdwn

Hopefully this works the way I'm thinking it will, otherwise I'll have to transfer the hub and brakes to the old CB trailing arm... :angry:

I wish I'd have known this sooner...hopefully this will help stop anyone else from having this problem and being carless.

-Kyle

[i-07]

good tto know!! thanks :tu:

good luck! :tu:

[b3nsonx]

which would be cheaper?
to buy all the required parts BRAND NEW or to get this rear disc conversion kit?

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=1777&h=174
(scroll down the bottom)

the kit is pretty tempting because cross drilled/slotted 11.4 inch rotors with stainless steel brake lines!
but im worried it might be missing some parts like the master cylinder and stuff, im gonna call them/email them to find out

[bacal36]

which would be cheaper?
to buy all the required parts BRAND NEW or to get this rear disc conversion kit?

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=1777&h=174
(scroll down the bottom)

the kit is pretty tempting because cross drilled/slotted 11.4 inch rotors with stainless steel brake lines!
but im worried it might be missing some parts like the master cylinder and stuff, im gonna call them/email them to find out


Wow I would love to do the wilwood brake upgrade! Just gotta find that extra g i got laying around here....

[timmy0tool]

which would be cheaper?
to buy all the required parts BRAND NEW or to get this rear disc conversion kit?

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=1777&h=174
(scroll down the bottom)

the kit is pretty tempting because cross drilled/slotted 11.4 inch rotors with stainless steel brake lines!
but im worried it might be missing some parts like the master cylinder and stuff, im gonna call them/email them to find out
never knew this kit existed. if you have the money by all means! i didn't spend that much to make it work, but again i've only used stock parts, this one is all aftermarket racing parts.

but wouldn't it look weird to have all racing parts out back and stock up front? 11" is HUGE!

[C91BLX7]

What parts do you absolutely need? you don't need the trailing arms?

[b3nsonx]

never knew this kit existed. if you have the money by all means! i didn't spend that much to make it work, but again i've only used stock parts, this one is all aftermarket racing parts.

but wouldn't it look weird to have all racing parts out back and stock up front? 11" is HUGE!

then that would be matched with the 11 inch prelude rotors in the front

by the way, what is the size of the rear rotors that come off the accord for this conversion?

[busak87]

if I were to get the parts from another cb7 that has rear discs for the rear brakes, what exactly would I need? do I only need the rotors and calipers to swap it?

[Speedfiend92lx]

I got a guy who wants to sell me a set-up from a 94 accord, minus the trailing arms. Will the CB trailing arms bolt onto the CD set and how big of pita will it be to do the arm swap? I'm not worried about the disc swap itself but I take it theres a reason everyone buys the trailing arms with their set-ups?

[Speedfiend92lx]

To answer your question Busak, heres the list of parts you need...

-upper arms from the chassis
-WHOLE lower crossmember (so you can use the rear sway bar too!)
-trailing arm from the chassis (near the jackpoints along the sideskirts)
-regular brake lines
-emergency brake lines

Timmy0tool gets the credit for the parts list. I just copied and pasted it. :tu:

[timmy0tool]

yeah you really don't need the trailing arms. they are both the same on drum and disc setups. you HAVE to unbolt the knuckle section off the trailing arms though where it differs. the knuckle is where the rear caliper bolts on to.

you don't really need the rear crossmember for the swap but if you want to run a rear swaybar (handles 2x better with one) you'll need it. it's only 4 bolts to remove the whole thing so why not?!

you'll need your stock DX/LX brake soft lines, PLUS the other 2 soft lines that go to the calipers.

the upper arms from the chassis are the same on both drum and disc setups.

the emergency brakelines are different so you'll need to get those specifically for disc.

hope that clears it out some!

[bacal36]

you'll need your stock DX/LX brake soft lines, PLUS the other 2 soft lines that go to the calipers.




Probably would be best to get some steel braided lines too! (Might as well since you are going to be upgrading to rear disc, and having to bleed the brakes!)

Ah yes I remember doing this swap a while back. Took me about a week to do, mostly by myself, after work (9-5). Good luck everyone! :bouncy:

[Speedfiend92lx]

Ok so I dont need the trailing arms. Cool. But will the CD rear discs fit the CB with out any additional modifications or parts?

[bakedaccord_90]

yes they will...
but you will need to order the longer bolts that connects the two arms and knuckle together

the ones on the cb models is smaller and will not bolt up that was my problem when i did mine

so just order the bolts or get it when you take the rear discs off the donor car

[i-07]

coool sounds like a plan! :tu:

[lonski]

Just to make your search easier... The rear knuckles from the vigors will work for this conversion too. You can also CONVERT your existing knuckles by swapping the hubs, bearings, backing plates, rotors, and calipers seperately.

Is it easier to convert using existing knuckles?

[Speedfiend92lx]

I dont think its easier. Its actually more time consuming swapping all your original pieces over to the rear disc arms. It's easier to just put the whole assembly from a rear disc car right on your CB. But its cheaper and more convenient to use some of your old parts.

[i-07]

I dont think its easier. Its actually more time consuming swapping all your original pieces over to the rear disc arms. It's easier to just put the whole assembly from a rear disc car right on your CB. But its cheaper and more convenient to use some of your old parts.
thats true cuz lots of us don't have much $$$

[slammed90ex-r]

not sure you can do that, where would you mount the caliper bracket because the drum knuckle does not have the mounting points that the disc ones do?

[lonski]

Yeah, I just realized that.

[Sobeman81]

not sure you can do that, where would you mount the caliper bracket because the drum knuckle does not have the mounting points that the disc ones do?


umm that's why it's been being said to take the entire knuckle assembly...i just got one side last weekend ...ratchet seized up before i could get the other one..but yea i'll take pix of what i got tomorrow..going back to the junkyard with mr JspecCB4 ....we shall see what happens.. :tu:

[slammed90ex-r]

yeah i know that you cant use the drum one i was just telling people, i already have the conversion it is very easy to do

[Sobeman81]

ah ok sorry..i guess i mis-read it then..

[hotboxnaccord]

would the 94 subframe work on my 92 lx for the sway bar ?

[i-07]

i will bee gettin the parts in the future by the end of the summer :tu:

[91-accord]

what happened to the photos for the DIY?

[rocesride]

what happened to the photos for the DIY?
X2

[i-07]

X2
x3 :confused:

[RedStitch]

just did the conversion the past weekend and in all honestly... you dont need the pictures. its extremely self explanitary once you are looking at it... it is a direct bolt in

besides the pics he initially had up were just general pics of the two different setups (drums and discs) side by side and on the car... so not that they weren't helpful... but they were just guidelines so you could see what it looks like.

I made sure i loosened every bolt before on both sides of the car before i took either side off and the only truly annoying part is taking the heat shield off and getting those e-brake cables in there perfectly... it just take a long time

if you guys want more step by step instruction let me know and i will write something up to help you out

[TristansCB7]

It would be graciously appreciated if you did RedStitch :tu:

[RedStitch]

working on the write up now

[benjerman112]

whats a good price??? $160.00 good

[kit-to-lip]

whats a good price??? $160.00 good

yeah thats about right. i paid 158 at my local JY for everything.

[i-07]

whats a good price for the 40/40

[Dajap]

Just picked up a set of rear disk brakes for $57!!!! Can't wait to install to see how much of an improvement it is.

[Leung]

guys help me out here, once again i have a chance to get rear disk brakes on my DX. i found a donor car with pretty much everything i would need still.

i don't have a rear sway bar and this car came with one factory because well, it's a 91 SE. anyhow i want it all, if someone could come up with a picture for each side so i know which bolts to take off. i don't imagine the car being there for very long so i should try to get everything fast.

[91-accord]

For those who have done the swap, what should be a concern? the bolts maybe? anyhow, do them bolts break at all? The reason I'm asking is because I'm about to buy a rear set for mine.

[GameChewer]

No longer hosting the pics? Godspeed.:tu:

[kit-to-lip]

For those who have done the swap, what should be a concern? the bolts maybe? anyhow, do them bolts break at all? The reason I'm asking is because I'm about to buy a rear set for mine.

i havent had a problem with any bolts or anything for that matter, the swap is pretty straight forward. knock on wood! :tu:

[92_dr_p]

i just picked up a set on saturday. $150. Other than the 3 hour drive and getting a speeding ticket i thought it was a good deal. now i need an e-brake cable, proportioning valve, SS lines, and some new pads....:tu: Where and what kind of car do i get the SS lines from?

[frootloops]

i just picked up a set on saturday. $150. Other than the 3 hour drive and getting a speeding ticket i thought it was a good deal. now i need an e-brake cable, proportioning valve, SS lines, and some new pads....:tu: Where and what kind of car do i get the SS lines from?

SS lines, as in stainless steel lines? Don't remember those ever being stock on anything... :shrug:
You can buy SS lines from most auto part places.

[92_dr_p]

ya i know they aren't stock. i know goodridge sells them. i was wondering what car they needed to be for. and i live in the middle of butt-f*ck nowhere so even finding maintenance things for my car sucks. i found e-brake cables, now i just need my stainless steel brake lines.

[frootloops]

SS brake lines for any CB7 Accord with rear discs should work. To make sure they fit, just get them for the year you got the rear disc brakes from.:tu:

[boricuaccord]

sorry to bump an old thread, but do you happen to have the pics still timmy? they aint visible anymore

[frootloops]

sorry to bump an old thread, but do you happen to have the pics still timmy? they aint visible anymore

What do you need pics of? I might have some that would help.

[byc_cb7]

i think he means the whole thread..i would like to see 2

[bobbycos]

me too ! i'm interested in converting to rear discs on my 90 LX along with doing the 5 lug conversion at the same time.

like i say , "Do It Once and Do It Right"

[frootloops]

i think he means the whole thread..i would like to see 2

LOL, to my surprise I actually copied this thread off in PDF format about a year or two ago.
EDIT: Found the date stamp on the PDF, 12/23/2006 04:23 PM LOL I can't believe I kept it all this time...:)

Images are a bit small but hey at least I have them! :) Here is a repost of Timmy's first post, enjoy!:bouncy::tu:


this DIY was made almost a year ago. i just realized i never posted it here so here we go.

for the longest time i wanted to do this swap on my 92 accord LX. after much debate, i finally decided to do it and got my hands on a set of rear discs complete with everything that i needed. it was all for $240 from a local junkyard.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy01.jpg

here are some pics i took as i installed them on halloween day. the installation is very straightforward (bolt-on). total installation time was 8hrs by myself. that included bleeding, e-brake cable adjustment, and test drive.

prior to installation
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy02.jpg

off the car
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy03.jpg

side by side comparison
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy04.jpg

finished product
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy05.jpg

for sale: 180k miles
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy06.jpg

for your enlightenment, i replaced the whole trailing arm, knuckle, and upper arm. i used the original LX soft lines and EX e-brake cables. ABS sensors were discarded. one section of the exhaust heatshield was removed to access the e-brake lines. one portion of the exhaust pipe was unbolted but not removed. the proportioning valve was NOT touched. for now, i don't feel that it's necessary to swap it out. so far so good. the braking is much more positive but it just started to rain and i wasn't able to test it out fully. i'll keep you guys posted.

with shoes on
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy07.jpg

with shoes on up close
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/timmy08.jpg

NOTE: i am not responsible for your actions. extreme care is necessary when dealing with suspension and brakes.

[byc_cb7]

damn ur the man froot loops..do u know how the e-brake line a regular brake line connect

[frootloops]

damn ur the man froot loops..do u know how the e-brake line a regular brake line connect

Glad to have helped.
And yes I do know how they connect, just that it's hard to explain... they are pretty self explanatory though.

When you are running the e-brake lines for the disc brakes, they'll bolt up under the vehicle in the same spots as the drum brakes do. Just drop the exhaust, unbolt a portion of the heat shield, and have at it!

Once you get back to the trailing arms, that's where they differ a bit, but like I said it is pretty self explanatory. Here are a few shots from my install, not sure if it'll help any:
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/rearbrakes01-2.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/frootloops16/rearbrakes02-1.jpg

[i-07]

nice pics

[Flatline]

Wow, those calipers are kinda small aren't they??? Or do rear disc calipers vary in size anyway?


And can you get a set of bigger calipers from the front of another CB and out them on the back for better braking?

i can get a set like that at a junk yard within 10 minutes not including the removal so i am really interested.

[The G-Man]

The rear disc calipers are plenty big. Remember, there is virtually no weight in the rear of the car.

You could get some front calipers for the rear, but it would require lots of custom mods, mainly because the rear disc rotor is smaller, and is not vented like the front.

[jszuba]

Ok, here's my question...
This is a rare car here in EU so no JYs... I need to shop for my parts.
If I were to keep my trailing arms and my control arms, can I replace the rear knuckle and bolt the caliper to it?
I haven't yet had the chance to see if the knuckle is a separate element...
Here is where I come in with a silly grin hoping I said something sensible ^^

[jszuba]

Ok, don't bother - found the answer.
It's a no... the knuckle is part of a bigger element.
Anyone know what that element is called? The one the disc+caliper/drum assembly bolts to?

[frootloops]

The knuckles are a separate element (they're held onto the trailing arm by two bolts, but you have to remove four bolts to completely remove the knuckle and you have to separate the knuckle from upper control arm/ball joint).
I kept my trailing and control arms from my 90 Accord with drum brakes, and swapped the knuckle off of a 92 with disc brakes (along with brake lines, rotors, splash shield, calipers, and all that other stuff) and it works perfectly.

#3/4 is the rear knuckle:
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/images/illustration/39/407716.png

[jszuba]

Thanks Frootloops!
That helps a whole lot to know someone's done it already!
Brings back a little confidence in my attempt :)
You are referring to the part group 3/4, right?

[frootloops]

You are referring to the part group 3/4, right?
Correct.

My exact procedure was:
1. Separate the knuckles from my trailing arms from my drum brake setup.
2. Unbolt the two bolts (#45 in the picture) that holds the upper control arms (#33/35 in the picture) from the car.
3. Separate the upper control arms from the knuckles.
4. Install the upper control arms on the knuckles from the Accord with rear disc brakes.
5. Install the disc brake knuckle onto my car and bolt the upper control arm back onto the car.

Probably the hardest part of the whole thing was removing half of the exhaust and heat shield to install the parking/emergency brake lines for the disc brakes.

[jszuba]

That's exactly how I want to do it now that I know a bit more...

All that's left is to either find a donor car (hahaha good luck to myself! The only CB i EVER saw at a JY was a 2.0L carb with drums)
or buy the parts one by one as budget allows ;]

Again Frootloops, your help greatly appreciated!

[frootloops]

That's exactly how I want to do it now that I know a bit more...

All that's left is to either find a donor car (hahaha good luck to myself! The only CB i EVER saw at a JY was a 2.0L carb with drums)
or buy the parts one by one as budget allows ;]

Again Frootloops, your help greatly appreciated!
As always, glad to help!

[cb007]

Can someone help me out. I just swap my drums for disk yesterday and I don't remember how the e-brake line was routed. Can someone take a quick pic of there e-brake line with everything bolted up. I don't know if the line goes over or under the sway and control arms. Thanks alot in advance.

[cb007]

Bumby Bumb Bumb!