View Full Version : brakes suck after ss lines and racing fluid!??!
Drocca19
03-18-2005, 06:04 PM
i upgraded to ss lines from goodridge and some ate super blue brake fluid. i drained the whole system. put in the lines and refilled the system with the ate and bled them until no bubbles came out on all 4 corners. also followed the haynes procedure on bleeding them.. left rear-rightfront-right rear-leftfront. but the pedal travel is way worse then what is was before. how is this? there are no leaks i already checked... give it time? anyeone has any ideas?
arrozburner
03-18-2005, 06:09 PM
did you bench bleed the master cylinder? since you drained the whole system I would think that you need to bench bleed the M.C. as well
90AccordSiR
03-18-2005, 06:11 PM
Because regardless of what haines said you almost always bleed form the farthest away valve. It should go like this PR, DR, PF, DF. make sure you didnt drain the master cylinder resavior of brake fluid thus sucking air in the system. The bast way to do this is to fill your resiover until ALMOST completely full then take another bottle of brake fluid and open it turn it upside down then stick it in the resiovor. This will insure you wont run out of fluid and suck air back in. Of course this only works of your using brake fluid that comes in a bottle with a skinny neck. Also not to call you ignorant or anything cause im sure your not but use two people that way one can keep pressure on the pedal and system and make sure your pushing the air bubbles out. Try that out and get back to us with the results im pretty sure youll be satisfied.
P.S. you only need to bench bleed the master cylinder if you replaced otherwise by refilling the resiovor you should be able to force most the air thru the system. Again remember to keep an eye on the resiovor.
I am having the same problem... brakes were perfectly fine before I did rotors and pads, and then they felt like the master cylinder was trash. Replaced Master cyl, bled the crap out of everything including master cylinder(bench bleeding) and they feel exactly the same as before. Im getting quite sick of the little random problems
:confused:
Drocca19
03-18-2005, 07:57 PM
well see i had 2 people when i did this. i was at the bleeder and my girl was at the pump. she pumped i opend the valve and bubbles came out and i closed valve and re did that plenty of times till everything seemed fine. as we were doing this i kept on eye out for the reservoir and i kept the fluid at max cuz it kept on going down of course cuz of the bleeding. so yea im not that igonorent. i have bleed my lines before and seemed to be able to do it. but i have never drained the whole system and put new fluid in. so should i changed the order of the bleeding pattern? and what is bench bleeding the master cylinder?
Bench bleeding is what you do off the car when installing a new MC. You bleed it in a vise, so you can get all the air out. Which is pretty much impossible on the car. If you wanted to, you could try to re-bleed it doing the above mentioned method. pr, dr, pf, df.
I think you did it fine, there is also someone else that has had this problem for a year or so, and is still puzzled as to what it it.
When I changed my front brake pads my MC went. It sucked at first because it only failed at certain times, but having the feeling of the pedal go to the ground was not pretty! I got a new MC, bled the system and it came back to life. I hope your MC has not taken a dump.
GL
X
the master cylinder.. is there supposed to be a black rubber washer thing sitting at the bottom?
My old one that I took off didnt have one in it, and the one I had sitting around did, so i threw it in there anyway. Anyone else have one of these in there?
I am also thinking about pressure bleeding the system so it should shove all the gunk and crap out for sure.
accordztech
03-19-2005, 10:23 PM
Bench bleeding is what you do off the car when installing a new MC. You bleed it in a vise, so you can get all the air out. .
i never did that, i always bled the system side to side no pattern really like maybe 3 or 4 rounds
Drocca19
03-20-2005, 12:54 PM
they have been getter thruough out usesage so i dont know. still not to a standard i wanted them to be at. still takes about half way for the brakes to grab.....umm could it be my brake pads? cuz i just got some powerslots rotors and axxis metal master pads like a month ago or so. and i noticed the braking sucked and i told myself well maybe cuz the mechanic didnt bleed the brakes so thats why.
Drocca19
03-20-2005, 04:59 PM
another Q: i do need to bleed them with the car on or off?
Hush22
03-20-2005, 05:38 PM
I had the same problem as you. So I replace my rotors, pads, calipers, booster and mastser cylinder and still it was the same. Then I thought my drums were bad and then I did a rear disc converion and still the same. Moral of the story Perpotioning Valve. After all of that time and money a piece of foil from the brake fluid bottle got stuck in PV and was preventing air to bleed out of the front passenger side BL.
sounds like a worthy thing to change out then. Although looks like it will be fun to get to. Now lets see if I can find one for sale somewhere.
thanks for the suggestion though, it makes sense, and could have prolly been easily blocked up with something from sitting for so long.
Drocca19
05-09-2005, 05:09 PM
sorry for bringing this post back from the dead but i am determained to fix this brake crap......
ok here is the deal i am having. let me rephrase i guess...
from the moment my foot hits the pedal or for the brakes to actually "grab" or start slowing down the car there is a like 1 inch of space that the pedal just sinks. like there is no resistance at all. then after that inch the brakes start to grab and even then if feels like "brakes" like i really have to press them down to slow down.
then again if you really slam on the brakes.... oh yea the powerslots and the axxis pads will grab and grab good.
i bled the system so many times now its not even funny. i bled them in all patterns from the haynes to the ones told here. and still the same. i even regulated the drums in the back. and still the same.
so here is my theory....i believe is the pads...on the "rubber" like brake performance. i shouldnt be with metal master pads on powerslots huh?
about that 1nch of lightless pedal i have no clue....anymore ideas needed...
di2accord
05-09-2005, 05:12 PM
its your master cylinder when i put my ss goodridge lines brembo rotors and pads the master cylinder went... now they work fine
the pedal dropping down more means it is your master cylinder not giving enough power to your brakes...
evol90accord
05-22-2005, 06:49 PM
Did you test the brake booster? Read your manual on how to do it. Also, it is possible for the master cylinder to leak where you can't see it, I've heard it goes into the brake booster causing it to fail prematurely.
howard20653
05-26-2005, 06:18 AM
If you guys have abs you need to bleed it to
accordztech
05-26-2005, 12:17 PM
i wouldnt use racing fluid....you would have to replace it very soon. it doesnt hold what normal fluid does...but its great to race but after a while it wont be good.
i97supratti
08-28-2006, 05:48 PM
I'm in this same predicament. I just installed Goodrigde Stainless Steel brake lines and a NEW honda Brake master cylinder and Super Blue ATE Dot4 Brake fluid. There's like 2" of no resistance when pressing brake pedal, and then the brakes start to grab. What is the problem here?
NAiL05
08-28-2006, 06:12 PM
hmm thats odd. Bleed it more supra and see what happens. Usually pedal just having no pressure then grabbing really sounds like an MC problem. My buddies have ss lines on there civics and really dont feel whats wrong with them unless maybe install wrong? Dunno. No leaks or anything around the installation??
i97supratti
08-28-2006, 06:15 PM
hmm thats odd. Bleed it more supra and see what happens. Usually pedal just having no pressure then grabbing really sounds like an MC problem. My buddies have ss lines on there civics and really dont feel whats wrong with them unless maybe install wrong? Dunno. No leaks or anything around the installation??
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost.php?p=690173&postcount=39
That describes how it was installed. There are no leaks.
NAiL05
08-28-2006, 06:20 PM
Sounds like you got most of it wierd...Unless they gave you a bad bmc. Was it remanufacture? Thats odd fluid level is fine too right? Well you have air somewhere in the system or somethin I can tell you one thing liquid doesnt like to compress and if it does it comes out somewhere.
i97supratti
08-28-2006, 06:30 PM
Sounds like you got most of it wierd...Unless they gave you a bad bmc. Was it remanufacture? Thats odd fluid level is fine too right? Well you have air somewhere in the system or somethin I can tell you one thing liquid doesnt like to compress and if it does it comes out somewhere.
It was a Honda OEM brake master cylinder, bought if off slhondaparts.com. I'll try bench bleeding it myself, then normally bleeding the 4 calipers.
h22sparkle
08-28-2006, 06:31 PM
It was a Honda OEM brake master cylinder, bought if off slhondaparts.com. I'll try bench bleeding it myself, then normally bleeding the 4 calipers.
nope dont bleed it yourself the best way is to bleed it with 2 people for best results.
vBulletin® v3.7.1, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.