vaccum line for internal wastegate

[blazen_accord]

I seen alot of people who has internal wastegate run vaccum line from the intake manifold, is that the correct way??

My Turbo come with a a nibble on the turbo housing and a very short vacum tube to the internal wastegate. The line is only 5 inches long. It came preconnected this way and so far it ran fine.

Now is this method wrong?? ineffective?? anyone has the vacum line runing from the turbo to wastegate like me??


Oh extra question regrading turbo size, my T25 turbo AR is .45, very small size, A friend is giving me his B14 turbo from his 92 eclipse, he does not know which one is bigger my or his. Will his b14 has any advantage over my T25. I'm not looking fro huge power, just good pickup at low rpm city driving and for highway passing.

[blazen_accord]

Since the stock accord engine power drop after 5600RPM,

If I get an T28 vs T3 vs t3/t4

what rpm would those turbo spool up at?? don't want a big lag since my turbo kick in at 2000RPM. and even if the turbo is capable supplying more air at higher rev, the engine not capable of making more power after 5600RPM on stock internal right??? so if a bigger turbo spool up at 3500RPM then the engine will only make power from that rpm till 5600RPM right?? so if I'm redline over 6200rpm or over it will be more stress on the engine and I will be running with much less hp right??

[turbo90accord]

if you are using a DSM exhaust manifold than it would be of to upgrade to a 14b<-- correct b14<--incorrect the 14b is a good turbo my buddy went 13.3 on one but blew it three days later. if your not built its a pretty good turbo. it is way bigger than a t28 which is a piece of shit IMO. if your gonna stay with the dsm manifold get a super 16g thats probably the turbo you will make the most power with. basically a 16g is a jdm mitsu evo turbo. it has a much bigger compressor wheel. race engineering would probably be a good place to find info on that turbo. DO NOT GET A 20G they are to big and are not designed for cars the 20g comes off of a mistushitsy freightliner truck. it is designed for massive amounts of eghaust flow and when used on cars usually suffers from compressor stall. this is when you are nearing your full boost and the compressor wheel stops because there is not enough flow to keep it pumpin resulting in a mega loss in power.

The wastgate vaccume line should never be hooked to the intake manifold. it should be connected to the compressor housing. the wastegate is not designed to withstand vaccume that it will see at idle. plus it would make your turbo allot more laggy because the wastgate air has to travel all that extra distance to the source before anything happens.

[blazen_accord]

thanks all, I look for a T3 when I finally build up my motor, love the high end speed, but need my low end to haul ass around in the city.

turbo90accord, I don't have an DSM manifold, my was custom made iron log type manifold. with a t25/t28 flange square with four bolt.

Now would an T3 fit into that flange on my exhaust manifold??

[WiKKeDV16]

correct me if im wrong but the
14b is a Td04 turbo which came off the Auto Dsms and the
14g is the Td05 that came off th manual Dsms
the 14g is slightly more powerful than a 14b but are both relatively the same way.. just some fyi..
anyhow.. anyhow on the 14b/gs if u upgrade the exhaust to 3"s you can cause boost creep which alot of Dsmers face.. to overcome this u port the wastegate.. theres a certain technique to this.. if u want more info.. look it up on Homemadeturbo.com
regarding porting/polishing turbos
if you cant find it let me know

[turbo90accord]

This is a little long but very informative!!!

you have them backwards the 14g is a peice of shit if you take the 2 apart you will see that the compressor wheels is miniature on the automatic ones. there is a large difference between the two turbos. porting the wastgate is not nessassary to control boost creep and very rarely does it happen. boost creep can easily be prevented by a good boost controller.

BLAZEN-- your manifold is only going to work with mitsubishi turbos unless you buy an adaptor plate but with the log style manifold you are going to run into problems with clearance since the turbo mounts in front of the manifold. if you do stick with that manifold get a mitsu turbo it will be allot easier for you if you dont keep it which i do suggest you do not keep it because log manifold do not flow for shit find a tubular. if you are running a f22B there are a shit load of manifolds that are avaliable that are really good. f22A is a little harder to find i know of a few places that sell them. log manifolds are shit because all of the exhaust gases collect in the log and create a lot of unwanted turbulence that can slow spool time and if you are running high boost can keep you from making as much power as possible. the reason why tubular is so much better is because instead of a whole bunch of air rushing together in a log and into a large mesh of air being forced into the turbo you get nice pulses from each cylinder forming a line one after another entering the turbo. if you read about F1 car and the thermodynamics behind their exhaust system you will understand this allot further. F1 cars us this to extract between 80 and 100 horsepower by controlling airflow exiting the engine.

[turbo90accord]

you must have had a shitty manifold then if you didnt see any gains. the manifold you have IS for mitsubishi turbos. the t25 and t28 is the same as 14b and 14g. primary tube size also has allot to do with tubular manifold to small and you wont see any gains. who made your tubular manifold and was it really equal length?

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A TURBO HEADER
IT IS A TURBO MANIFOLD HEADERS ARE FOR N/A

regardless if you are running 2 lbs or 28 lbs a tubular manifold is better because it flows better and it reduces engine compartment heat. log manifold are like putting a torch inside a popcan the heat mixes to gether and get hotter!

[blazen_accord]

here is a pciture of my log manifold that come with my turbo kit, it cheap looking and the turbo is mounted in the front, not below the manifold.

So the 14b turbo from an DSM is no better then my current T25 right? from the picture does my manifold look like an DSM manifold I have never seen one? From the size diagram from http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/thk.html the T3 seem to big and I would need a new flange welded on??Should I look for a garret T28 or a Mitsu turbo with the manifold that I have??

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/d16ulhk.jpg
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/radiplt3.jpg

here a pic and size of the flange of t25/T28
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/tk010p.jpg
here a T3 flange
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/tk030p.jpg

[blazen_accord]

Since my manifold are so short and restrictive, should I be replacing that first before getting a bigger turbo? an new F22A manfold will cost about $300-$400, so would getting an DSM manifold and have it ported and polish will get much better flow then my log type right? How much would I be spending if I have a shop doing all of this??

anyone got a ported DSM mani they want to sell:)

[turbo90accord]

i would start with a new manifold.

[antib16]

if you get a new manifold ill buy yours of you need some where to start