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-   -   Sonikaccord : 2001 Honda Prelude Base (http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=207630)

sonikaccord 01-11-2016 08:03 AM

Sonikaccord : 2001 Honda Prelude Base
I got another daily/beater/project car. I purchased it for $2500. It came with 2 spare H22As that I will practice my nonexistent motor building skills on. One is completely disassembled and the other has a bent valve. Both are Type-S. It came with an extra set of wheels that I'll probably sell because I don't need nor want them. I think they are Prolines or something like that.


Here is the background of this car:

I have a 2001 honda prelude base model 5spd
I just recently dropped a used 2000 prelude base motor in it bc my last one bent a rod.
I dropped the motor in smooth sailing and i test start the engine with no radiator, evap system, or accessory belts hooked up. Engine cranked and ran and idled just fine. Before it got hot i shut it off and continued to hook up the rest of the parts. Once allllll was in place no plugs unplugged i started again only this time the engine will fire and shut right back off. Here is what i have checked and replaced

Crank sensors
Knock sensor
Cam sensors
Distributor + plugs and sparks
Cleaned the injectors professionally
Checked all grounds
Ignition coil
Fuel pump and all lines including the rail
Immoblizer unit.

I even went as far as putting a new ECU and ignition and immobilizer in there just in case the ecu was bad
Im running out of ideas any suggestions would help greatly. When you put a test light on the injectors on the ON position they show full power. But as you are cranking they only pulse it seems to be once out of the four times they should be firing. When the light pulses on the injectors the car cranks over thens shuts off.
If you shoot brake cleaner into the manifold the car runs perfect. So that must be the issue but what is causing it?? Yes i replaced the fuel pump relay and the pgmfi
So the PO replaced a ton of things, but if you follow my other thread about diagnosing this problem (http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=207433) you can see that the problem was the wrong balancer drive pulley. It was for an OBD1 motor which doesn't have the CKP sensor poles on the pulley like the OBD2 one. Swapped the correct one on and now it starts and runs pretty good. I haven't aired her out yet. I think I need a break from the CB, too. Something new-ish to work on. I've been driving old faithful for almost a decade now. It's really time for a proper rebuild on her anyway. Something like what Rilas has done with his.

Now for the pics...which I will upload later because I'm typing this at work :D

The mandatory mod list:

DC Header (installed)
Euro-R Manifold (have, not installed)
Generic Cold air intake (installed)
Ghetto(DIY) Manual Tensioner (installed)
New Timing Belt
Balancer belt removed
New stuff from PO listed above
New Axles
New Slave Cylinder
New Fuel Filter
New Engine Harness (well exceptionally clean so I'm going to assume new)

Depo Blackhoused Headlights
Blue Repaint
Front Lip (want)
Side skirts (want)
Rear Lip (want)

Rolling Stuff:
17" XXR 526 (installed)
Tien Coilovers (installed)
SPC adjustable balljoints front and rear (Installed)

Interior & Electronics:
Spray painted panels (installed, looking for a clean set)
Alpine Type-R components (Installed)
Some cheap head unit (Installed)
Eclipse 5 channel amp (want)

Anyway...this car is slammed. The Tiens are literally maxed out. Not my style, so it's going to get lifted about 1.5".
The XXR 526s are nice and have gotten a lot of compliments from non car people, but they aren't classy enough imo. I want some BBS's...gold with a polished lip.
There is a rattling noise at about 3k rpm. (Hole in the exhaust)
The A/C is pretty much non-existent. It may only need a few lines. (May leave out)
The interior...oh God the interior. There is black spray paint on the console, doors, dash, and the little small kick panels. (Replace everything)
The ECU wiring has been touched and will have to be repaired to my standards.
The engine bay needs a wire tuck.
The key only works in the driver's door and ignition

Things to do/Quick Checklist:
Lift car
Find some BBSs or Fikse FM-5 (May go with some stock blades or RSX Type-S wheels. I want to DRIVE this car, not just look cool)
Fix Paint Blemishes
Replace Painted Interior Parts
A/C Fix (Maybe)
Ecu wiring Fix
Acquire an amplifier
Acquire a better Head unit
Do a simple sound system install.
Replace lock cylinders
Install alarm

Paint boo-boo:


I have the rest of the interior parts.

Jarrett 01-11-2016 09:07 AM

Some people shouldn't be allowed to own cars. But this guy seems strange. He does all of this crap to the ECU wiring and the interior, but he's thorough in his parts replacement process. Anyway, I'm glad you're enjoying it. I'm very familiar with the process of removing others' crap from a car right after purchasing it. With my most recent CL, it was more removing crappy OEM replacement parts. Part of it, I guess.

Rilas 01-11-2016 03:27 PM

Glad you finally figured out the issue with it. Also in doing so you saved yourself the headache of possibly breaking your timing belt or bending valves when the cam gear finally let loose. I can't believe you got so much extra stuff with the car including 2 H22A Type-S's, especially at that price. Most likely because he may have never gotten it running again. I would love to own a Prelude eventually, but right now the GF would shoot me if I brought home another car. Its a nice base to start with considering you sound like you need a break from CB wrenching. Also I don't know how people can do such tasteless and awful things to their cars. Especially like Jarrett pointed out, he seems to do decent with the mechanics.

CyborgGT 01-11-2016 10:15 PM

Looking forward to the pics, I love Preludes.


sonikaccord 01-12-2016 07:34 PM

This is officially the worst thing that I've had to do...well maybe second worst. If you have ever changed a fuel filter on a Prelude, it's a total bitch.

Anyway un-painting the door panel is progressing slowly.

I really, really just want to say F'it and buy a set of panels. I'll be patient and keep working at it. So far I've been using my wife's hair dryer and carefully peeling off large chunks. I'll need another method to remove the small pieces that inevitably will get left behind. Maybe a steam cleaner? I'd prefer not to use abrasive chemicals that may damage the vinyl.

sonikaccord 01-16-2016 04:49 PM

I'm going to try to find a clean interior off Craigslist. There are a couple of part outs in my area.

Anyway. I failed emissions because of the readiness code. I didn't drive her long enough. And as soon as I left the trading place,I got a code 45 and that would explain the hard limit at 6500 rpm.
The plugs are fouled. My idle is not right. It cuts out at a stop. And I still have a surge when the engine is cold. I'm thinking there's still a vacuum leak at the MAP sensor.

Other than that...this car is awesome.

sonikaccord 01-17-2016 08:59 PM

Drove it at highway speeds today. It feels like a death trap. Rattles and shakes everywhere. I have a free day tomorrow so I'll take some pics.
I also fixed my non-existent MAP sensor o-ring. Code 45 didn't show up after about 30 minutes of driving.
The car shuts off sometimes when the engine idles, or when I push the clutch in. I'll raise the idle up a bit and see if it still does it.


Battery tie down obtained.
More driving revealed more gremlins. Got a cat code, and an evap leak code. Took it to the muffler shop and got the cat replaced since the PO had it gutted. There are holes in the exhaust so I'll try to get a replacement soon. Power steering is functional-ish. It makes a lot of noise...must be air still in it. I still need to raise my base idle up to cure the stalling issue. The sway bar endlink bushings are non-existant. I'm missing the top bolt on the alternator. Don't know how I missed that one. I also need the base for the H1 low beam bulbs. Just a bunch of small stuff except the cat replacement.

sonikaccord 01-21-2016 12:36 PM

That loud *clink* that I heard on the highway a few days ago...yeah that was my UCA balljoint nut coming off...And here is the really f'd up part, the UCA and the knuckle were completely separated for who knows how long but the car is so damn low that the knuckled kind of wedged itself in the UCA.

A bit of backstory...I haven't driven this car above 65 mph yet because I haven't gone over every bolt, nut and bushing yet and ^^^THIS is exactly why. This morning, I heard a loud pop when I was backing out of the parking lot. I wondered to myself what that was, and assumed it was a spring that was binded up. So I continued driving and noticed that the car was doing more clanking than normal and that the car pulled to the left when I started to brake. At this point I was entering the highway on ramp, and something said to me "go check the car out." I pulled off at the next exit and made it into QuikTrip (Gas station) where I found that the knuckle and UCA decided to part ways. I'm thinking...oh fuck, I could've died. Well, maybe not that extreme, but it felt like it! I turned the hazards on and slowly proceeded back to my apartment via the street way. I made it back , safely, got my stuff for work and hopped in ol' faithful. MMMmmm I love that girl and all her quirks! It made me realize how well built she is...really felt solid and not fragile like the Lude feels (as of right now...that's going to change soon).

You guys HAVE to see this when I get pics. I'll probably throw in OT just for shits. Now I have three people to blame for this:
Me for not doing a full inspection of the car yet and actually trusting someone else with their mods.
The PO for not using a damn cotter pin!!!
MIDAS for not doing their "Courtesy Inspection."

Other than that, I have passed emissions and successfully registered and titled the car to my name. I'm going to rockauto and ordering some suspension parts. This weekend, I plan on working on my wife's Thunderbird and may not have time to do any repairs/replacements to the Lude.

F22Chris 01-21-2016 05:23 PM

Damn dude. Glad nothing bad happened! Pics for sure.

sonikaccord 01-21-2016 07:25 PM

Me too!!
Ok, so I tried to get a good pic but in doing so I kind of changed the position of the knuckle. Warning...these pictures are very sorry. It was cold and raining.


Look at that coilover!! It is bottomed out...

F22Chris 01-22-2016 09:46 AM

Haha super low. I'm guessing no camber correction on the front either? You should have been riding on all outer tire, that's fucking sketchy. Did the bolt just leave, or did it get bashed out?

sonikaccord 01-24-2016 08:10 AM

The threads are fine, I don't see anything out of place. I'm assuming that it just wasn't on tight enough. This is what the opposite side looks like:

No castellated nut, just some home depot style flanged nut. I can't remove it easily since the ball just spins in the socket. I'll end up replacing both joints. Should be a relatively quick and painless procedure. I did the same thing for the other side just to get this thing mobile for a few days.

Upper bushing is shredded.

I did clean my FITV and added new o-rings yesterday in an attempt to cure my hunting idle when the car is cold. It seems to have helped. I only got one hunt when I was testing it and the cold idle is down to 1600 rpm instead of 2000.

sonikaccord 01-25-2016 08:03 PM

SPC adjustable joints, maxed out for more negative camber. And still no cotter pin!

Lifted her up a bit. Went from this:

To this:


Grumpys93 01-26-2016 06:35 AM

Man that is sketchy work. Im glad you made it safely home after your knuckle separation. It makes me think the OP was a young teenager and just cut corners left and right

sonikaccord 01-28-2016 07:52 AM

He was a young guy, 20 IIRC. So he went through his high school phase with this vehicle (thinking about that, I may want to disinfect everything again :lol:)

I got a code P1457 after I got my emissions inspection. Yay, just missed it. I figured out that the purge solenoid is leaky, doesn't hold vacuum with the key on. These things are expensive, so I ordered one off the bay for 26 bucks.

Also, VTEC still no work. After I fix this CEL, I'll dig into that. I'm on the lookout for new wheels. I want something with a lip that fills the wheel well and is also lightweight. 17s preferably, but 16s will work.

F22Chris 01-28-2016 01:04 PM

Check hoses too for the evap code, and do some electrical wizardry on the VTEC solenoid. Probably something stupid simple. Looks better off the floor. :tu:

sonikaccord 01-29-2016 07:54 PM

Turns out the connectors were swapped on the EVAP purge solenoid and that other thing. Oops. Not too big of a hit in the wallet. I'll throw mine's on eBay.

My oil light flickers at idle after I've been commuting for about 30 mins. I'm going to do an oil change because I don't know what weight oil is in this thing. Maybe it'll fix my vtec issue.

Thanks Chris. I agree, I've never been a fan of the whole slam it to the ground thing.

My dad found a guy with a Trans am that's collecting dust...if it's an '00 or '01 then I'll dump the Lude for that no questions. Hell if it's any year with a v8 and a manual trans.

F22Chris 01-30-2016 09:00 AM

Glad it was stupid simple to fix. Yeah on the Trans Am. If it's an LT/LS it will be a 6-speed too. I honestly think it would give you less problems than the lude too.

sonikaccord 02-01-2016 07:44 AM

VTAK works :)

It was a clogged screen. I have pics, prepared to be grossed out. I guess the previous owner of the engine never took it up past 5k.

I seriously may want to let this thing go now that it's operational. Even if I break even, I still have 2 free engines. This stalling and oil light issue scares me. The motor feels and sounds healthy though. I have a couple more things to try, if it doesn't work, then I'm going to get rid of her. Going to see more about that T/A.

F22Chris 02-01-2016 03:21 PM

Try running some oil flush. The clogged VTEC screen makes me think clogged passages too. Sea foam or marvel for 15 minutes before oil change, see if it helps. Maybe the oil sender? Stalling is weird though idk about that one.

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