COOLING SYSTEM ELECTROLYSIS PROBLEM!!
I was over at the Auto Electricians the other day dropping of another fucked Alternator and noticed he was checking the coolant on a car with a Multimeter, and it reminded me of some old reference material I had stored away, so when I got home I dug it out of the archives and re-read it. It was all about Cooling System Electrolysis and the damage it can do to the Engine due to POOR GROUNDING. So I thought what a bloody good Topic to Write Up for my friends at the CB7Tuner Asylum. So here we go.
Coolant Electrolysis Facts
An electrical current passing through the cars coolant can cause major system component failures, all due to poor electrical grounds and the build up of static electricity in the vehicle. Electrical grounding problems can stem from poor installation of Engine Swaps, aftermarket goodies or shit collision damage repairs. This CAN destroy all cooling system components and ANYTHING else coming into contact with the coolant, regardless of the quality of cooling system maintenance. Yes ANYTHING, that means Water Pumps, Cylinder Heads, Engine Blocks, Inlet Manifolds, FIV’s, Pipes etc., etc. Depending on conditions it can be as quick as 2 months before ruining a radiator. The only way it can be stopped is to correct the electrical problem causing the current. Damage resulting from an electrical current can range from Minor Pitting of Alloy and Metal Components, Internal Flaking of radiators, oil coolers or heater cores, to Severe Corrosion of Alloy & Metal Components, which is the No 1 Killer of Alloy Cylinder Heads & Head Gasket failure. If you have ever seen the underside of a fucked Cylinder Head and noticed all the corrosion, it’s not lack of coolant that’s causing it.
Testing for Electrolysis in the Cooling System.
A Good Quality Auto-Sensing DIGITAL Multimeter (i.e. Fluke) capable of reading both AC and DC currents is best to test cooling systems. The Multimeter leads must be long enough to reach between the Radiator Filler and the ground side of the battery
So How Do You Test It.
Using a Good Quality Auto-Sensing DIGITAL Multimeter, attach the Negative Multimeter lead to the ground side of the battery.
Hold the Positive Lead in the COOLANT, touching the Coolant Only. (Important: Do not allow it to touch anything else but coolant)
Check the AC & DC Voltages with ALL electrical systems OFF (heater turned on) and Note Down Voltage readings
Read the AC & DC Voltages during Crank and Note Down Voltage readings.
Read the AC & DC Voltages with the Engine running with ALL electrical systems OFF and Note Down Voltage readings.
Read the AC & DC Voltages with the Engine running with ALL electrical systems ON. - Lights, coolers, fans, heaters, air conditioning, Sound System, cell phone (if fitted), two-way radio (if fitted) and Note Down Voltage readings.
The above procedure will test a complete system, including an electrical current which can be generated by air bag suspensions. This is why complete grounding of all rubber mounted components is necessary.
Voltage of 0.0 to 0.3 is normal in coolant of Cast Iron Block Engines. A Cast Iron Block Engine will be destroyed, with time, by as little as 0.5 volts, and some engine manufactures are reporting as little as 0.15 Volts WILL destroy an Alloy Engine.
Note: The current will be “AC” if the problem is due to Static Electricity.
How To Locate A Problem
If the Cooling System shows an electrical problem with all the equipment turned on, turn off one thing at a time until you finally turn off the system that stops the electrical current. When the current stops, this will indicate the electrical system causing the problem.
Take a lot of notice to the Starter Motor as they can cause as much damage to the cooling system and engine as a direct connection to an arc welder can. This is due to the high Amps present.
Repair any Stray Current or Static Electricity problem ASAP.
ALWAYS change old coolant if a stray current is detected. The electrical current WILL DESTROY a properly inhibited cooling system.
So there you have it Ladies & Gentlemen. Another Easy way to test the Grounds in your car. I hope this help everyone in there future problem solving.
Good Luck
THE GURU
*This is a Guru Publication and adheres to all Copyright accredited to it.
and yes you may be thrown to the Ugly Lesbians.
I was over at the Auto Electricians the other day dropping of another fucked Alternator and noticed he was checking the coolant on a car with a Multimeter, and it reminded me of some old reference material I had stored away, so when I got home I dug it out of the archives and re-read it. It was all about Cooling System Electrolysis and the damage it can do to the Engine due to POOR GROUNDING. So I thought what a bloody good Topic to Write Up for my friends at the CB7Tuner Asylum. So here we go.
Coolant Electrolysis Facts
An electrical current passing through the cars coolant can cause major system component failures, all due to poor electrical grounds and the build up of static electricity in the vehicle. Electrical grounding problems can stem from poor installation of Engine Swaps, aftermarket goodies or shit collision damage repairs. This CAN destroy all cooling system components and ANYTHING else coming into contact with the coolant, regardless of the quality of cooling system maintenance. Yes ANYTHING, that means Water Pumps, Cylinder Heads, Engine Blocks, Inlet Manifolds, FIV’s, Pipes etc., etc. Depending on conditions it can be as quick as 2 months before ruining a radiator. The only way it can be stopped is to correct the electrical problem causing the current. Damage resulting from an electrical current can range from Minor Pitting of Alloy and Metal Components, Internal Flaking of radiators, oil coolers or heater cores, to Severe Corrosion of Alloy & Metal Components, which is the No 1 Killer of Alloy Cylinder Heads & Head Gasket failure. If you have ever seen the underside of a fucked Cylinder Head and noticed all the corrosion, it’s not lack of coolant that’s causing it.
Testing for Electrolysis in the Cooling System.
A Good Quality Auto-Sensing DIGITAL Multimeter (i.e. Fluke) capable of reading both AC and DC currents is best to test cooling systems. The Multimeter leads must be long enough to reach between the Radiator Filler and the ground side of the battery
So How Do You Test It.
Using a Good Quality Auto-Sensing DIGITAL Multimeter, attach the Negative Multimeter lead to the ground side of the battery.
Hold the Positive Lead in the COOLANT, touching the Coolant Only. (Important: Do not allow it to touch anything else but coolant)
Check the AC & DC Voltages with ALL electrical systems OFF (heater turned on) and Note Down Voltage readings
Read the AC & DC Voltages during Crank and Note Down Voltage readings.
Read the AC & DC Voltages with the Engine running with ALL electrical systems OFF and Note Down Voltage readings.
Read the AC & DC Voltages with the Engine running with ALL electrical systems ON. - Lights, coolers, fans, heaters, air conditioning, Sound System, cell phone (if fitted), two-way radio (if fitted) and Note Down Voltage readings.
The above procedure will test a complete system, including an electrical current which can be generated by air bag suspensions. This is why complete grounding of all rubber mounted components is necessary.
Voltage of 0.0 to 0.3 is normal in coolant of Cast Iron Block Engines. A Cast Iron Block Engine will be destroyed, with time, by as little as 0.5 volts, and some engine manufactures are reporting as little as 0.15 Volts WILL destroy an Alloy Engine.
Note: The current will be “AC” if the problem is due to Static Electricity.
How To Locate A Problem
If the Cooling System shows an electrical problem with all the equipment turned on, turn off one thing at a time until you finally turn off the system that stops the electrical current. When the current stops, this will indicate the electrical system causing the problem.
Take a lot of notice to the Starter Motor as they can cause as much damage to the cooling system and engine as a direct connection to an arc welder can. This is due to the high Amps present.
Repair any Stray Current or Static Electricity problem ASAP.
ALWAYS change old coolant if a stray current is detected. The electrical current WILL DESTROY a properly inhibited cooling system.
So there you have it Ladies & Gentlemen. Another Easy way to test the Grounds in your car. I hope this help everyone in there future problem solving.
Good Luck
THE GURU
*This is a Guru Publication and adheres to all Copyright accredited to it.
and yes you may be thrown to the Ugly Lesbians.
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