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    EXT: prepping and priming

    OK, so i just thought i might share some insight on prepping your car for a good paint job- from some of these recent threads i thought it might make for a helpful sticky or something- And, of course, This is only advice, i will not be held responsible for your mistakes and/ or choices. DIY at your OWN risk.

    I'm having trouble trying to find the roll of film with the right pics on it - so written instructions are all i can go with...

    I'd say go for PPG paint - my experience, its really the best, and if that means you have to search out a PPG dealer, then by all means go for it - if we could find one in the middle of nowhere-north-central Louisiana, then it shouldn't be too hard for you

    Make sure you know the type of gun you're using, it's probably HVLP (Hi Volume Lo Pressure) and ours is gravity fed (cups on top, allowing for more consistent, even spray)...

    ***STEP ONE***Sanding and Body Filling-take care of this ish before you go to the paint booth
    - scuff sand the car all over to create a better surface for sealing - you DO NOT need to sand off all the paint, just rough it up
    - any areas that require filler (small dings, rust spots, etc) should be COMPLETELY sanded down so that you are applying the bondo directly to the bare metal - deep rust will need to be cut out with new pieces welded in; and large dents will need to be pulled or replaced-fill in your low spots with bondo, working efficiently and carefully so that everything is as even and smooth as possible (i can give you more bondo tips later if you need)... you can test the smoothness by eying it or rubbing your finger accross once it is all dried




    ***STEP TWO***The Epoxy Primer-Sealer
    Before you start:
    **wear sleeves, long legs, eye protection, and get a good respirator, or, at the very least, the appropriate face mask- because those fumes WILL mess you up - a pack of cheap latex disposable gloves will do fine for the job
    **we also normally lay plastic dropcloth on the booth/garage floor under the car before we start as well as all around the sides

    and NOW....
    **remove your head and taillight assemblies, put them somewhere moisture-free - we also take the side view mirrors off, but you could just cover them up if you'd prefer

    **cover up your exhaust, especially if it's aftermarket - the last thing you want is to be is removing paint from that beautiful chrome cause it's a bITCH
    **with painter's tape (scotch brand 1 - 1/4" blue tape works best, imo) and craft paper, cover up your windows and anything else you don't want to paint
    - your paint store should have rolls of this readily availible for pretty cheap

    **apply the primer-sealer - we used MP170, a gray, non-chrome sealer that mixes at a 2:1 ratio with its catalyst, MP175
    - keep an even distance ( about 6-10" away) and apply the primer smoothly and steadily
    - get a nice even coat on there, about 1mm, don't over spray because you'll get runs and drips with a possible orange peel issue as your end result
    - just keep this in mind: the primer-sealer is a layer that you DO NOT sand, so it is important to take as much care with it as you can

    **dry time 30min @ 70F air temp (that's a rough estimate)... and take the time to let it dry properly; iknow that might seem like common sense but im just trying to get as much as i can covered for you
    - it may take a little longer if the air is not dry enough and your booth is not temperature controlled (colder = longer) and too much humidity will equal a crappy job





    ***STEP THREE***Primer Surfacer**we used PPG MP181 1K Primer-Surfacer which mixes at a 1:1 ratio with MR Reducer

    **Paint this on just as you did the last one and allow fair time to dry

    **Wet sand as well as you can - smooth that car to where it almost feels as slick as bare metal (there may be some spots wher your sanding reveals the lighter gray sealer underneath... thats OK : )

    **sand and prime sand and prime until everything is perfect then prime it one last time









    ***STEP FOUR*** put your car back together










    ***STEP FIVE*** take her to the paint shop
    (or move on to painting it yourself. and save the putting together for later)

    Looking at receipts, prep materials alone (primer and catalyst/reducer, sandpaper, craft paper, tape ...etc) ran us about $200 after tax

    if you do decide to do your own paint, be wary that factory colors are expensive -- our basecoat + clear and whatnot was a little more than $300... but red is also an expensive color -- there are other brands you can use, too, so do your research and find what you thing will work best

    p.s. you can NEVER have too much sandpaper -- for the initial strip-down we use an orbital sander(and also a LOT of elbow grease and hand sanding)

    just remember, the only layer of paint that SEALS your car is the clear coat - all primers and multi-stage coats are porous and suceptible to rapid wear/ pitting/fading etc... if you don't finish the job in a fair amount of time


    and the prep work is 90% of a good looking finished product... it doesn't matter how nice your base and clear are- it's wasted if you don't take your time on the first steps


    ...yeah that was a mouthful but i hope it was a helpful one and any additions/questions/comments would be great
    Last edited by i'm the girl; 03-28-2005, 09:03 PM.

    breathing is deadly underwater...

    #2
    You should add what grit of sand paper to use at each step and tell what "wet sanding" is.

    Comment


      #3
      wet sanding is pretty self explanatory.

      Also OEM honda paint is NOT expensive. you can get it for aorun 60 bucks a pint and it is premixed with the pearls and all in it. all you have to add is the hardener.
      "you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.


      1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!

      1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

      1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
      sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
      Did work for: jhoff_cb7
      Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfe

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by BSTEDCB7
        wet sanding is pretty self explanatory.

        Also OEM honda paint is NOT expensive. you can get it for aorun 60 bucks a pint and it is premixed with the pearls and all in it. all you have to add is the hardener.
        ok well i guess "expensive" is a relative term b/c there are plenty of paints that cost a lot more - we paid $92/qt for san marino red, and it was going at about 50/pt (just like you said)

        we prefer multistage paint, too - which means your clear is separate (pearl too) so it costs a little more, but that's my personal prefence, so i couldn't reccommend a good single stage paint (base & clear all in one)

        breathing is deadly underwater...

        Comment


          #5
          honda OEM paint DOES NOT include clear (i found that out) I asked if it was single stage and they said you have to hit it with clear because it will look dull if they added the clear to it.

          But yeah I prefer a multi stage also. I am going back to bordeaux red pearl so it will be fun working it.
          "you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.


          1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!

          1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

          1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
          sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
          Did work for: jhoff_cb7
          Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfe

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by BSTEDCB7
            honda OEM paint DOES NOT include clear (i found that out) I asked if it was single stage and they said you have to hit it with clear because it will look dull if they added the clear to it
            ...exactly certain suppliers (e.g. PPG) may be able to make you a single stage that is OEM matched - but it's not the same


            p.s. pearl finishes, metal flake, etc. are added into the CLEAR COAT, not the base

            breathing is deadly underwater...

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by BSTEDCB7
              wet sanding is pretty self explanatory.
              no, its not. do i mist with a water bottle while sanding? do i spit on the car and then rub a wet stone against it? explain please.
              I........love my car. Simple as that.

              Comment


                #8
                Sandpaper!!

                Ok - general tips on sandpaper -- although if your car has multiple layers of paint or is the victim of a shitty repair job, you'll have a little more work in front of you

                240 - 320 on the initial dry scuff sanding, if you want to taper down/blend into the low points, you can use up to 400 in those areas
                **after the initial sanding, its also important to use a cleaner/desgreaser to get off all that dust -- if you don't it will inevitably make for more problems later**

                we use 320 - 400 on the bondo and then 400 to 600 to 800 then 1000 when we wet sand and prime, wet sand and prime, etc.

                What is Wet Sanding?

                make sure you're using wet/dry sandpaper, black silica is a good choice, imo
                and work with a wet surface and a bucket of water

                this helps create a much smoother finish, and helps keep the paper from clogging so it lasts longer

                **working from a 400 to 1000 grit paper on the priming and wet sanding is for the reasons of smoothing the body down as perfectly as possible - - basically, sand down until smooth,let the water dry, then reprime, let the primer dry and check if you need to sand again...

                just remember, the finer the detail, the higher the grit

                (still no luck finding the pictures grrr.... im still looking)

                breathing is deadly underwater...

                Comment


                  #9
                  damn good write up...i might as you for some help when sally is ready to get painted...two thumbs up for this thread


                  Originally posted by fizzbob7
                  first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
                  Originally posted by ACC0RD22
                  no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
                  So. Cal OUTLAWZ

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i know the pearl and etc are in the clear. That is why i said the clear comes seperate
                    "you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.


                    1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!

                    1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

                    1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
                    sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
                    Did work for: jhoff_cb7
                    Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfe

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by BSTEDCB7
                      i know the pearl and etc are in the clear. That is why i said the clear comes seperate
                      sorry that was just a general note for anyone - some people may not be aware

                      breathing is deadly underwater...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i have pics of my car sanded, if you need any?
                        I <3 G60.

                        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          wed post those pics for everyone to see
                          "you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.


                          1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!

                          1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

                          1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
                          sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
                          Did work for: jhoff_cb7
                          Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfe

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by wed3k
                            i have pics of my car sanded, if you need any?
                            might help -- i was stupid and didn't label the roll of film with ours on it... and i have about 10 b/w 10 color to develop sooo....

                            breathing is deadly underwater...

                            Comment


                              #15






                              one mistake was using a paintbrush to brush the primer on, and i didnt sand it smooth when i brought it to the shop, lol.

                              last pic is where my roof had mad oxidation so sanding thru the clear coat was kinda easy...
                              I <3 G60.

                              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                              Comment

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