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How can I go about repairing this rust?

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    How can I go about repairing this rust?

    So I have a bit of rust towards the back of the car around both the left and right wheel wells, the right side is particularly bad. How bad does it look? serious or not so much yet? How can I go about repairing this appropriately?


    Betty and Betzi died for our sins


    #2
    Also there is rust around the square holes where the sash trim goes, and I would like to fix that before putting the trim on, and I'm really confused on how to tackle that. As for the sash trim itself, I have no idea how to put it back on, but I shall make a separate thread for that


    Betty and Betzi died for our sins

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      #3
      That is going to require you to cut out and replace that lower quarter panel. Shitty thing is you won't know exactly what needs to be replaced until you get that outer body panel cut off. Then and only then will you know if you need to also replace parts of the inner wheel well and the inner and outer rocker panels as well. That looks as though it is rusted from the inside out...... Not bad if you have a welder and some sheet metal fab skills.

      Or you can do what 90&#37; of the shade tree DIY'ers do. Grind it down to bare metal and Swiss cheese. Then fill it with spray foam and bondo then cover it with paint.

      What is your budget and how much of this are you willing to do yourself?

      Gotta hate Canadian Winters!
      Last edited by GhostAccord; 04-03-2017, 08:28 PM.
      MR Thread
      GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

      by Chappy, on Flickr

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        #4
        Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
        That is going to require you to cut out and replace that lower quarter panel. Shitty thing is you won't know exactly what needs to be replaced until you get that outer body panel cut off. Then and only then will you know if you need to also replace parts of the inner wheel well and the inner and outer rocker panels as well. That looks as though it is rusted from the inside out...... Not bad if you have a welder and some sheet metal fab skills.

        Or you can do what 90&#37; of the shade tree DIY'ers do. Grind it down to bare metal and Swiss cheese. Then fill it with spray foam and bondo then cover it with paint.

        What is your budget and how much of this are you willing to do yourself?

        Gotta hate Canadian Winters!
        Yikes, that sounds alot worse than I was hoping. My budget is pretty low unfortunately, And my welder is an unreliable homemade piece of crap so I wouldnt trust that on my car.
        How well do the shady diy bondo repairs hold up? I want it to not rust again, or at least not for a very long time. I may have to bite the bullet and save up and get it fixed professionally


        Betty and Betzi died for our sins

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          #5
          This is sort of worst case on a sedan; less damage can be repaired with smaller patch panels. The process would be similar for a coupe: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180806
          Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-03-2017, 10:53 PM.
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
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            #6
            Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
            This is sort of worst case on a sedan; less damage can be repaired with smaller patch panels. The process would be similar for a coupe: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180806
            Yikes, and I thought Daisy's rust was bad. You did a great job restoring Ruby. I've seen
            a cb7 even more rusted out than yours, unfortunately the owner doesn't have the money to fix it. I hate rust, Its like cancer for cars, just keeps spreading and getting worse.


            Betty and Betzi died for our sins

            Comment


              #7
              More pictures of the rust

              So heres pictures of the other rusty parts of the car. Lets say I end up having to bite the bullet and get it done professionally? how much do you think this would end up costing me?



              Betty and Betzi died for our sins

              Comment


                #8
                At some point, if the car is just a utilitarian tool for you, the cost-benefit break-even point is eclipsed and it no longer makes sense to repair.

                If you just want to drive the car around worry-free, but you're not really attached to the car, just leave it alone and drive it until it buckles when the door is shut.

                If you don't care much the car, but really want something safer to drive, buy a new car. This option would be accepting that any car is going to suffer the same fate.

                If you're somewhat attached to the car, still don't worry about fixing it as it's not worth the time and money to do it improperly.

                If you're really attached to the car, then I suggest nothing short of a full repair with new or donor quarters. You can find a non-running car down South for under $500 and get it shipped to you for around $1000. That's expensive, but it's the only way to get everything. Plus, you'd have lots of spares.
                My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                  At some point, if the car is just a utilitarian tool for you, the cost-benefit break-even point is eclipsed and it no longer makes sense to repair.

                  If you just want to drive the car around worry-free, but you're not really attached to the car, just leave it alone and drive it until it buckles when the door is shut.

                  If you don't care much the car, but really want something safer to drive, buy a new car. This option would be accepting that any car is going to suffer the same fate.

                  If you're somewhat attached to the car, still don't worry about fixing it as it's not worth the time and money to do it improperly.

                  If you're really attached to the car, then I suggest nothing short of a full repair with new or donor quarters. You can find a non-running car down South for under $500 and get it shipped to you for around $1000. That's expensive, but it's the only way to get everything. Plus, you'd have lots of spares.
                  I am very attached to this car, I bought it because the rust didnt seem too bad at first, seemed like quite the deal for $400. Its been very good to me so far, I bought a cb7 because it feels similar to my old EF sedan which was killed doing burnouts (Wasn't me). A cb7 is better! bigger with more power and twice as reliable , as the past 5 months rolled by, more chunks of paint fell off revealing the real damage. I guess I'll just try my best to try to slow down and hide the rust. I'll ask the body shop down the road for an estimate, if it seems reasonable I'll go for it. The rust will probably come back but better than leaving it open I suppose. Regular washing and waxing should keep the rust at bay for a while. I would love to have the job done properly by getting replacement panels and whatnot, but I don't have the space to keep all the parts, let alone an entire extra car


                  Betty and Betzi died for our sins

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I had rust repair done between the rear windshield and trunk. Cost me 500$ and is the only rust i've found so far. Yours looks a lot worse... I plan on keeping my car forever so I bit the bullet and had it fixed properly.

                    If your going to spend money on fixing the rust than do it right the first time and be done with it. Also, dont just go to any body shop for this. The only estimate you should get is to have everything fixed properly. If not your just buying a really expensive bandaid and wasting money. Good luck and hope everything works out for you.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                      At some point, if the car is just a utilitarian tool for you, the cost-benefit break-even point is eclipsed and it no longer makes sense to repair.

                      If you just want to drive the car around worry-free, but you're not really attached to the car, just leave it alone and drive it until it buckles when the door is shut.

                      If you don't care much the car, but really want something safer to drive, buy a new car. This option would be accepting that any car is going to suffer the same fate.

                      If you're somewhat attached to the car, still don't worry about fixing it as it's not worth the time and money to do it improperly.

                      If you're really attached to the car, then I suggest nothing short of a full repair with new or donor quarters. You can find a non-running car down South for under $500 and get it shipped to you for around $1000. That's expensive, but it's the only way to get everything. Plus, you'd have lots of spares.
                      ^That's depressing LOL. Jarrett, If the car's not worth putting thousands of dollars into for a shop to do it, why not try the $100 fix and at least make it look decent?

                      You can check out the thread I recently started with the exact same question: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=208946.

                      I am right in the middle of repairing rust right now on my car, with fiber-glass. Most people will be like "the rust is going to come back, no matter what" (so on and so forth) if you don't weld in sheet metal. But if you do everything right (grinding out all of the rust, priming/undercoating everything), and prep properly, I don't see rust coming back very soon.
                      It does take a lot time to do though, but the best part is it's going to cost like $60 for me to do it to my car LOL.

                      Regarding doing it "the right way", people weld in sheet metal all the time (doing it right) just to have rust re-appear a year or two later. It almost makes sense to replace the metal with something that doesn't rust, haha. But this also shows it's all about the prep work.

                      Here's what I'm in the middle of right now (also doing a rear disc swap hehe).

                      you can see before pics on that thread I gave you a link to
                      Last edited by GTRON; 04-04-2017, 10:34 AM.
                      I'm faster then a prius

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by GTRON View Post
                        ^That's depressing LOL. Jarrett, If the car's not worth putting thousands of dollars into for a shop to do it, why not try the $100 fix and at least make it look decent?

                        You can check out the thread I recently started with the exact same question: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=208946.

                        I am right in the middle of repairing rust right now on my car, with fiber-glass. Most people will be like "the rust is going to come back, no matter what" (so on and so forth) if you don't weld in sheet metal. But if you do everything right (grinding out all of the rust, priming/undercoating everything), and prep properly, I don't see rust coming back very soon.
                        It does take a lot time to do though, but the best part is it's going to cost like $60 for me to do it to my car LOL.

                        Regarding doing it "the right way", people weld in sheet metal all the time (doing it right) just to have rust re-appear a year or two later. It almost makes sense to replace the metal with something that doesn't rust, haha. But this also shows it's all about the prep work.

                        Here's what I'm in the middle of right now (also doing a rear disc swap hehe).

                        you can see before pics on that thread I gave you a link to
                        hmm, fiberglass you say. What's the process of fixing rust holes with fiberglass? By fiberglass do you mean fiberglass body filler/tiger hair?


                        Betty and Betzi died for our sins

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by AmTeC View Post
                          hmm, fiberglass you say. What's the process of fixing rust holes with fiberglass? By fiberglass do you mean fiberglass body filler/tiger hair?
                          In my case I am using Bondo "Resin Jelly" and Fiberglass cloth to build the strength, and then regular Bondo body filler to do final shaping. I don't have any concerns about strength. This Resin Jelly stuff by it's self is really stout, the fabric is more for shaping it out easier.

                          I did buy "tiger hair", but I'm just going to stick with using just the resin jelly and fabric.

                          Let me know if you have anymore questions, I'm in the middle of doing all this right now haha.
                          I'm faster then a prius

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Also, check this guys thread out, he did fiberglass too.
                            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=149002
                            I'm faster then a prius

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Jarrett's idea of getting a donor car shipped to you is a good one. That would truly be the best way to go about getting everything you need. Parting out the car will allow you to recoup a fair amount of the expense, if not all of it. Do it right, and that method would be cheaper than getting lower-quality aftermarket replacement panels. It'll just take longer and require more work.

                              I wouldn't trust the repair to anyone but a highly skilled body repair person. Done improperly, the rust will return along the weld points (I had that happen myself.) If the car means something to you and you want it fixed properly, a quality repair professional is worth every penny.
                              Just keep in mind that time is your enemy here. The rust will continue to spread. My friend had rear quarter panel rust on his CB7. He wanted to repair it, but he put it off for "just one more winter". The rust spread up and under his rear window, inflating his repair bill to over $4000. The work was definitely worth it, and it looked beautiful when complete... but he had probably exceeded the value of his car (by about double) in that repair! If you're going to do it right, it's going to cost... and you'll NEVER see that money again. Granted, it's the only way to have your car properly and reliably repaired... and that's worth more than the car's blue book value.

                              GTRON's suggestion isn't a bad one. A temporary fix that makes the car look better is a good alternative to just letting it rot away. It will likely continue to rot under the temporary repair, but at least you won't have to watch it happen. If you decide that a proper professional repair isn't worth the cost, then I'd probably go with that method.
                              Just don't do a band-aid repair with the expectation of getting it fixed properly in the future... because the chances of the proper fix costing a lot more then (like with my friend's car) are very likely.






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