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Rpm Question?

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    Rpm Question?

    What rpm should my car be be running at 60 mph? Right now its running around 3000 rpm @ 60mph that seems a little high. Its a 93 Accord automatic.

    #2
    Originally posted by alexsaccord View Post
    What rpm should my car be be running at 60 mph? Right now its running around 3000 rpm @ 60mph that seems a little high. Its a 93 Accord automatic.
    Can you feel the car engage into overdrive?

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      #3
      when my car is cold it will be at 3k at 60mph but once its warm its at about 2600 (just takes about 4 minutes to get warm)


      Check out my MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=189190

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        #4
        I don't think it's going into overdrive. It runs at 3000 rpms @60 mph, I wish it would drop back to 2600!

        Comment


          #5
          Is there a sensor for the OD? The engine stays at 3000 rpms short trips or long,doesn't matter.

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            #6
            Sounds like it is engaging 4th gear (which is an overdrive gear), but the torque converter is not locking up as it should. First things first: fluid level correct? Fluid been changed lately? All connectors on the transmission solenoids? Transmission throttle cable attached, working, and adjusted correctly?
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              #7
              Yea dude ,, you over drive is not kicking on. I used to run kike thst and now i do 60@ 2500.

              If your thermostat is bad and the car necer reaches operating temperature then the OD will not work. Mine started working right 3 weeks ago after i replaced the thermostat and gas milage has increased a good amount.
              10th Anniversary Accord.
              05 Audi A4 Ultra Sport 6MT.

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                #8
                The car comes up to temp fine. I'm going to change the tranny fluid this weekend and check the wiring. The last Automatic in the family ran 2600@ 60mph. I had to phone my son out west to check his memory! LOL I don't like the engine reving that much.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Heres my response to a similar question i was asked last night.

                  "Yeah i agree with checking the fluid level first. But if its not low heres some info on trouble shooting CB7 automatic transmissions i can give you that might help you now or down the road. (Sorry i didnt add this earlier i didnt have time).

                  The shift solenoids are on the front of the transmission and are cylindrical in shape and there are two sets of them. You might try taking these off and cleaning the screens on them. Ive seen some pretty gunked up ones before. This is not hard to do.

                  If the Sport light or D4 light flashes it could be a faulty TCU. A few times ive had mine start out in second because of a bad TCU and at first i thought it was sliping. So if eather of those two lights are on search on that topic. Also sometimes the TCU can be bad and not throw any codes. I have a spare TCU laying around because of this and they can be hard/expensive to find.

                  Also does your torque converter lock up still? When your driving at a set speed above say 50mph on flat ground can you feel it drop in RPMs again in 4th almost like another gear? If it doesnt heres two things it can be and ill explain why this is important to to your problem.

                  1). If you have a faulty thermostat (thats stuck open) thus causing the water temp to never reach 180 or 190 which ever it is, it wont let the torque converter lock up. This is because the TCU dosent think the cars warmed up enough to lock up the torque converter. (I guess because the fluids to cold and or to thick below opperating temp.) This most likely dosent matter to you.

                  2). The torque converter can go out and send metal pieces thru the transmission causing it to fail. It took mine 2k miles after this to fully go out. This is what happened to me in January at 212,000 miles (very common at about 200k). A new one (not a remaned one) from Honda IF YOU CAN FIND ONE is $800-$1200. This is added cost to replacing the transmission. But a new one is not needed just prefered by some people (like me).

                  Most of this info is more than you need but i know enough about this topic and i felt like sharing what i know and have learned from this site. I might be a newbie but all the info i gave you is on this forum or on another forum. So feel free to double check my research. Hope this helps you."




                  Comment


                    #10
                    Its not quite what you asked but theres some info in there you might use.

                    First check the fluid level.
                    Take those soleniods off and check/clean the screens.
                    Replace/check thermostat (might need it anyways and easy to do).
                    Locate another TCU and see if that helps. The TCU dosent always throw a code like its designed to. (by flashing sport or D4 Light).
                    Check your cable tension (coming from the throttle body wheel to the front of the transmission. It fits in a grove and pulls a black lever up. Should have no more than 1/4" of play.
                    After that... unless im forgeting something get ready to buy a new transmission.
                    It shelled the torque converter.




                    Comment


                      #11
                      Also you can get a multimeter and check the outputs to the lock up solenoid and check the fluid pressure off the port next to the solenoids when engaged.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        This is an old thread.




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