Announcement

Collapse

Please DO NOT Post In The General Section

From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.


The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.


For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.


Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.

Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
See more
See less

CyborgGT: Mild H22A Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    check out www.tunersports.com I have been getting some good prices and always free shipping.
    -1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
    -1993 Accord EX SOLD
    -1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
    -2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4

    Comment


      #17
      Get the block and heads mating surfaces milled flat. They warp and distort over time and it should be done when rebuilding to ensure the head gasket has even pressure distributed across it.

      Head studs id consider optional unless the car was race only build using over 11:1 compression. But its nice to do it while your there. If i had to choose i would take a ported head over the head studs if you mill/deck your setup.

      Exhaust ports would be a larger priority than intake IMO. So if porting a head and you could only afford certain stages of port jobs take the higher stage on the exhaust, and maybe even oversized valves. Combine that with a good exhaust system and your VE(voulmetric efficiency) should improve. Over doing the intake @ a higher stage.

      Get a very large throttle body, not a spacer. It should also meet the plenum seamlessly.

      Portmatch all intake/ exhaust connections.

      Coat your exhaust system in high temp paint. I used bbq grill paint. It helps keep heat down in he engine bay and doesnt let the exhaust lose as much heat, and should help keep the velocity up. If nothing else it keeps the system rust free.

      Comment


        #18
        bigpoppa: Felpro doesn't list a thing as far as Prelude VTEC gaskets are concerned.

        Joey: I need EVERYTHING, top to bottom. I'm doing a full re-build, so there's no point in leaving anything untouched. There's no deadline for this build, so I'm fine with waiting while I save up money for parts. I will definitely keep you in mind. I assume your discounts are just with OEM parts?

        GunRunner: Thanks for the link. I've always gone to ImportRP.com, their prices are almost always lower than anyone else's even though you have to spend $100 before you get free shipping. I'll take a look around TunerSports, thanks!

        MortsAccord: While I'm doing a ton of research, I can never have enough build tips. Thanks for all that. I was thinking about going for Type-S pistons (11:1), and InlineFour carries compatible aftermarket rods from I think Eagle. Re-sleeving is an option (and tempting, with FRM's infamous oil burning issues), but I'm desperately unfamiliar with changing or matching up sleeve diameters, over-sized pistons, and such. As for the exhaust, that's a cool trick with the paint, even though the full system will be stainless steel.

        The exhaust plans, by the way, are HyTech header, Catco cat, Vibrant UQ resonator/flanges/gaskets/hardware, HyTech Twin Loop muffler, and Kteller piping. All 2.5". I'm hoping for about 230whp, and after looking at build lists in magazines and online, it doesn't look like that'll be too difficult even if I leave most of the detailed internal work stock. There's a local tuner with a lot of Honda experience, so before picking up any strict power parts I'll talk to them about what I can do while keeping the car street and emissions friendly like I want.
        Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-23-2017, 05:03 AM.

        Accord Aero-R

        Comment


          #19
          Resleeve always makes me think about boost. FRM eats rings, which increases oil consumption.

          If you go through a resleeve why not boost it i say. You can probably get molybdenum rings (the only rings id use in FRM sleeves) and reuse stock pistons. Unless frm compatible pistons are cheaper now.

          If you reuse stock pistons, clean and polish the domes to a mirror finish if you can. Tape up the rest of the piston so it doesn't get bumped or scraped up. You can check the pistons vs deck height in the block, and if wanted they can mill the block down some. I dont know what the limit is. The other thing you can do is run a longer rod. Better rod bolts in stock rods helps as well, and you can have stock rods shotpeened, or simply by better rods. Gotta weigh whats available.

          Comment


            #20
            I'm doing an h22 all motor build right now. Mahle makes a FRM compatible piston. My cylinders were pretty scratched up, so I went with a .25mm overbore.

            Inline Pro did the overbore and hone for $350 which I didn't think was that bad since almost every shop I contacted said no as soon as I brought up FRM.

            My goal is 220-230whp so if you have any other questions feel free to PM me.
            -1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
            -1993 Accord EX SOLD
            -1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
            -2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4

            Comment


              #21
              230whp is achievable

              so far experience i've gained from builds is
              to get 240whp, 11.5 mahle slugs, skunk pro2, gears, skunk mani +70mm tb and kidd racing header

              and to get 280whp,darton m.i.d, 13.1 JE k24 pistons,f22 bottom skunk mani, 70mmtb, skunk pro3, gears, ferrea, kidd racing header

              so with some mahle's and pro2 you should be pretty good, although the only downfall i saw on using skunk cams is forget about your low-end, these cams really shine @vtec, a type s cam will show better numbers on low-cam
              Originally posted by deevergote
              Just do what PR CB7 said.

              "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
                Joey: I need EVERYTHING, top to bottom. I'm doing a full re-build, so there's no point in leaving anything untouched. There's no deadline for this build, so I'm fine with waiting while I save up money for parts. I will definitely keep you in mind. I assume your discounts are just with OEM parts?
                I have some access to aftermarket, it just takes a while to get that kind of stuff in. I will talk to some of my other parts guys around the country to see if they can do better, because some parts depts are more "tuner friendly" than others. I'm going to assume that you're not going to order all of this stuff at once, so just PM me the first batch of items you're looking for and I'll check them out.
                '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                Originally posted by deevergote
                If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                Comment


                  #23
                  Thanks, Joey. I just picked up another car to daily during all of this, so once I know where my budget will sit with the new bills, I'll get in touch with you.

                  Isn't nearing 12:1 where pump gas starts becoming risky? It'll be a street car with only occasional road course, and hopefully autocross, use. With that in mind, I was wanting to stay near 11:1, and also have decent low-end power. Cams I'm still looking into but probably Crower Stage 2's and springs/retainers no matter what, and Euro-R manifold (I was originally thinking about going K-series RRC, but supposedly shorter runners are bad for low-end power). Tuning bits like pump/injectors and cam gears will be in there. Converting to coil-on-plug with AEM V2 I think would be a cool mod, too - since I want a RyWire harness anyway, they could integrate the COP system if I do go that route.

                  Accord Aero-R

                  Comment


                    #24
                    If your going to go cop just get a sds-efi system. Id stay at <11:1 crap though. If a suppliers cam makes bad low end tq on a VTEC engine I wouldn't even think about using it. That totally defeats the purpose of VTEC.

                    I wouldn't mess with the intake manifold, id just make sure all flashing is removed, and all mating surfaces have smooth seamless transitions.
                    Last edited by MortsAccord; 09-17-2012, 02:46 AM.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by CyborgGT
                      Isn't nearing 12:1 where pump gas starts becoming risky?
                      Not necessarily, it's all in the tune. I have a buddy who runs 12.5:1 plus 10 lbs of boost off of a .82 A/R. He has a talented tuner though. If you have a daily though, you could possibly consider e85 or 100oct, but 93 could still be used. I would say though to definitely keep it under 13.5:1. But the best opinion you should get is from your tuner. They can tell you what they can offer you in terms of streetability.


                      Originally posted by MortsAccord
                      Id stay at <11:1 crap though.
                      So with it being a JDM H22 you're pretty much telling him to not build his bottom end?
                      '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                      Originally posted by deevergote
                      If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
                        Not necessarily, it's all in the tune. I have a buddy who runs 12.5:1 plus 10 lbs of boost off of a .82 A/R. He has a talented tuner though. If you have a daily though, you could possibly consider e85 or 100oct, but 93 could still be used. I would say though to definitely keep it under 13.5:1. But the best opinion you should get is from your tuner. They can tell you what they can offer you in terms of streetability.




                        So with it being a JDM H22 you're pretty much telling him to not build his bottom end?
                        I meant to say CR.

                        You cant run that cr on pump gas without having poor ignition tables. What you end up with is barely any power over a lesser cr build, while making the engine take a beating for it.

                        Don't forget this is a daily driver on pump gas. Also japan engines run off a slightly higher rated fuel, they don't use our (r+m)/2 method either.

                        No offense but I also hate that "streetable" term. Its used poorly and confuses new enthusiast. Streetable is any car you can run on the road on fuel available at a gas station/pump. A cars lightweight flywheel wont make it any harder to drive for example. It wont ruin its "streetability" lol, neither will a high rpm build or a massive turbo setup. Only if it goes out of the scope of fuel that is available for a "street" car.

                        I bet that high CR boosted build doesn't run pump gas either. Maybe E85, but even that's pushing it /w what you said.

                        As for gear and power, JDM means nothing. Even more so since he's rebuilding it.

                        Remember the only reason new mazda cars get away with factory 9.1:1 cr and boost is because of coil on plug+ direct port fuel injection.
                        Last edited by MortsAccord; 09-17-2012, 03:26 AM.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I don't follow you on the ignition tables logic; that sounds like more of a tuning issue than with the setup itself.

                          By your definition, I used "Streetable" in the correct verbage. It's all on his would-be tuner's abilities. What one tuner can do, another may not be able to. If his believes he can do a 14:1 on 93, than that's his limit. If he says he can only do 11.5:1 on 93, than that's his limit, unless he finds a different tuner. But again according to your definition, if e85 or 100 octane is available in his area, then it would still be considered "Streetable".

                          And you are right in a way, my friend tuned on 100 octane, but he drives around on 93 due to the cost of fuel. He has noted a slight decrease in power but not enough for him to care. He whoops on just about anything. By his definition, " it's a matter of 3.5 car lengths vs 5". So again, his car would be "Streetable".

                          Not sure where you're going with the Mazda argument, other than to say that they suck at building cars because they need coil-on-plug and direct injection to make a reliable turbo motor....Honda has proven years ago that they didn't.
                          '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                          Originally posted by deevergote
                          If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                          Comment


                            #28
                            E85 is readily available in my city, but I'm not wanting to convert. I like being able to drive anywhere.

                            Accord Aero-R

                            Comment


                              #29
                              There's nothing wrong with 93. Just make sure you ask your tuner. But you should easily be able to run 12.0:1. With the altitude up there, maybe I'm thinking wrong, but shouldn't you be able to run more? Or is it the opposite and it's harder to tune?
                              '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                              Originally posted by deevergote
                              If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                              Comment


                                #30
                                The higher the altitude the higher octane rating needed...all other variables constant. With some older cars (especially Ford Triton engines prone to carbon buildup) taking a trip to the mountains requires 89 or 91 gas to prevent pinging, detonation.
                                My Member's Ride Thread

                                Bisimoto header before & after dyno

                                1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X