wont start with key, will start by jumping starter..

[F22Chris]

This is a long post, but hopefully it is the fix.

Check for resistance/continuity in the wire going directly from your positive battery terminal to the starter. If it reads OL or a super high resistance, replace that wire. If not move on. (I’m going off info from previous posts)

Verify the #9 dash fuse isn’t blown. Test voltage at the #9 fuse (7.5a) while the key is in the START position. According to the diagram, it won’t see any voltage unless the key is in that start position. That’s probably why you don’t see voltage at it.

If the key is in the start position, and you don’t get voltage, stop here and let me know. If you do get voltage move on.

On your clutch switch there should be a BLUE/RED wire and a BLACK/GREEN wire.

Strip back a little insulation off these wires so we can get a reading. Get your multimeter, and set it to read voltage. Ground black lead, and put the red lead on each of these wire. depress the clutch switch. Both wires should get 12v.

If you get a value on both wires, good. If you get power on only one wire, replace clutch the switch.

If still no start, find the starter relay in the driver side dash board and replace it. I could tell you how to test a relay but it’s confusing for those who aren’t familiar with what terminal on a relay does what. If you are, and you get to here, let me know.

If you replace the relay and it STILL doesn’t start with all other factors known to be good, you have a break in the wire going from the starter relay to the solenoid.

Guys if I left anything out please lemme know. Homie needs his car

[Slammed Accord]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the fuse box??

[Slammed Accord]

power wire from the battery is good.. 9 fuse is good, i tested for power at 9 with the key on, and turned as if im starting it.. no power.. called 2 autozones for the relay, they say they dont show one.. only show the main relay.. im going to run over to pyp in a few and grab bunch of relays.. i had a box of them but no clue where they are now.. does power go from the starter relay to the fuse box or from fuse box to relaay??

[Slammed Accord]

i swear to god, i will drive this car today

[F22Chris]

No voltage at the #9 means there’s an issue BEFORE it somewhere in the circuit. Test voltage at two more wires.

On your ignition harness that goes from the fuse block to the key tumbler, there’s a WHITE wire. Verify 12v at that wire, it’s a constant 12v so it should have 12v at all times. The other wire that needs to be tested is the BLACK/WHITE wire. This wire will only see voltage when the key is in the START position so you’re gonna have to turn the key like you’re cranking the car to get a reading.

If that white wire has voltage, then that will verify good fuses 15/19, and no breaks in the under hood fuse block to the dash fuse block. If no voltage at the white wire, verify good fuses 19 & 15 in the under hood fuse block, and continuity on the white wire connecting the two fuse blocks.

If the BLACK/WHITE wire has voltage, that means your ignition switch and tumbler are good.

I just edited my last post so look at it again. I didn’t study the diagram too well and gave you some incorrect info, man. My apologies.

You can test your relay once we figure out why that #9 isn’t getting voltage.

Right now the relay won’t even energize the coil because it gets the voltage it needs from the circuit the #9 fuse is in. Given your clutch switch is good.

[sonikaccord]

I'll try to describe this in text, but I can draw a quick sketch if it gets confusing. Chris pretty much nailed it tho.

1. Check voltage on WHT wire at ignition harness.
Car can start, so this is good

2. With key in start position, there should be 12 volts present at BLK/WHT wire of ignition harness and BLU/RED wire of clutch switch.

You stated that there was NO power with key in start at Fuse #9. The ignition switch BLK/WHT wire connects directly to Fuse #9 AND provides power to the starter cut relay terminal 30. Your problem lies somewhere between the ignition switch and the dash fuse box as that wire is the voltage supply.

I would do a continuity (resistance) check between Fuse #9 and the BLK/WHT wire at the ignition switch with the key not inserted in the ignition. Report back with the results and we can move to the next step.

[F22Chris]

Started?

[zedjr10]

I had same problem after my car was stolen. I just replaced my key ignition switch.Which then it started but kept blowing out oreilly's clutch relay switch. So i went to jy and got a clutch relay switch there and problem solved. The a/c switch and clutch switch are the same product i believe. You could just have a bad starter solenoid or a bad ground.

[F22Chris]

I had same problem after my car was stolen. I just replaced my key ignition switch.Which then it started but kept blowing out oreilly's clutch relay switch. So i went to jy and got a clutch relay switch there and problem solved. The a/c switch and clutch switch are the same product i believe. You could just have a bad starter solenoid or a bad ground.

Faulty ground, sure why not.

Car starts when jumping the starter solenoid so that’s a good part. The starter relay isn’t getting power, so replacing it won’t do anything. That’s like replacing a blown light bulb because your breaker tripped. Follow the steps Sonik and I gave you, and I’m 100% positive youll find the culprit in the circuit.