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93 Accord race car Build/Questions thread

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    #76
    Here's the spreader plates for the cage, sorry about potato image quality

    they box the foot of the cage by going up the sides of the body


    click for big



    Comment


      #77
      Question:

      This wire above the alternator has been dangling here since I got the car. I think it's a ground wire, it actually shows 0 ohms to ground on my voltmeter.

      Is it a stock ground and where does it normally connect?





      I grounded it to the alternator case today and everything seems to be fine

      Comment


        #78
        This weekend I did a bunch of work with my friend.

        We installed the new front wheels bearings on the hubs, I have a couple tricks to note here..

        I bought some cheap GMB $17 wheel bearings. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041MGAO8/...745480_TE_item

        When I got them, I checked to see if they would fit throught the brake rotors and they wouldn't. That means after I put the on the hubs it would be a pain in the ass. So before I installed the bearings into the hubs I grinded the outer case on the bench grinder until they passed through the rotors. Doing this BEFORE you press them on the hubs is a lot easier.

        Also I put the hubs in the freezer overnight before I "pressed" on the bearings. This shrinks them ever-so-slightly and should make installation easier. Especially since I use a hammer and a socket to install the bearings because I don't have a press


        After that we installed the axles, installed the hubs, and put everything back together.
        Installed 4 new ZFR5F-11 NGK plugs and adjusted the valve lash.
        Installed a new timing belt.
        The valves were really close to spec, about half of them needed .01" or .02" adjustment.

        I filled the trans with Redline MT90, filled it through the backup sensor (?) on top of the trans. I needed a crows foot 19mm to loosen the backup sensor.

        Also did a lot of random clean up, removed unused brackets and wiring, removed the horn, stuff like that.

        Since the car was crashed into at the last race I removed the fender and pulled out the body as well as I could. I bent the fender back better and now the hood closes and latches properly. Not sure what to do long-term about it.



        Also I bought some 2 part 60D durometer urethane and did the front and drivers motor mounts
        Got the idea from here: http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...ne-mounts.html



        Just make SURE your tape is sealing the bottom of the mount well or it WILL leak out! Ask me how I know

        Comment


          #79
          Originally posted by aventari View Post
          Here's the spreader plates for the cage, sorry about potato image quality

          they box the foot of the cage by going up the sides of the body


          click for big



          I was expecting something like this:



          I always tend to think things are harder than they really are though.




          Comment


            #80
            Originally posted by aventari View Post
            Question:

            This wire above the alternator has been dangling here since I got the car. I think it's a ground wire, it actually shows 0 ohms to ground on my voltmeter.

            Is it a stock ground and where does it normally connect?





            I grounded it to the alternator case today and everything seems to be fine
            I have never seen that before. Might be a deal like Mitsuba vs Denso starters.








            Comment


              #81
              Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
              I have never seen that before. Might be a deal like Mitsuba vs Denso starters.
              So I figured out what the wire was.. It's the original alternator wire, which isn't used anymore as the the alternator B+ post is connected directly to the kill switch. This is a rule of Lemons racing that the kill switch has to cut the alternator power completely.

              So the previous owners had repurposed the original alternator power wire for an extra ground wire.
              Works for me.

              Comment


                #82
                Worked on the car all day, but progress was slow. The main thing I did was mount an old BMW seat in the passenger side so I can take other people in the car during track days.

                I went to the local metal supply store and bought a bunch of scrap metal for 59 cents a pound.
                I made a custom mount out of 1/8" bar stock and 1"x1" square tubing, it came out really nice, it just took was longer than I was planning. Probably 4 hours or so. Lots of welding and cutting and drilling and grinding. Fun stuff though

                The seat is ugly as hell I know but it works and it was free.
                I still need to weld in a BMW 3 point seat belt before it can actually be used. My friend is giving me an old OEM seat belt to use--for free of course.






                Also installed the motor mounts I filled with polyurethane



                and fabricated a battery hold down out of some threaded rod and a piece of scrap steel.
                I have no idea what happened to the original hold-down.

                Comment


                  #83
                  Love this car. Super cool seeing people do stuff like this. Would be awesome to do something like this.

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Just took some time to browse through the thread, really cool what your doing with the car. Forgive me if it was mentioned at all but do you have a weight of the car completely stripped like that? Good luck with it in the future.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Haven't actually weighed it yet. I'd be really curious myself. I'm guessing it's around 2500-2600 lbs? What's a stock 93 DX sedan weigh?


                      So I took it to get aligned today, I asked for 2.5 degrees up front and 2 in the rear and 0 toe.

                      The front was fine, but the car was hit in the drivers rear at the last race before I got it and it looks like it's a bit bent up. Not sure if it's the subframe bent or the unibody shifted, but there's too much camber on the passenger side and zero camber on the drivers.

                      I'm probably going to cut and shorten and reweld the drivers rear upper control arm to get 2 degrees of camber, and use washers on the passenger side to get a bit of positive and get it out to 2 degrees.

                      If I don't want to deal with cutting and welding the control arm, are these adjustable arms any good?

                      http://www.protuninglab.com/90-97-ho...id=56128534817

                      or should I not waste my time?



                      Another question: is it more likely that the rear subframe bent and I can just replace it, or is it likely the whole frame is shifted in the rear?

                      Comment


                        #86
                        As it's a racecar(and a LeMon), I'd just consider it a disposable expense and treat it like brake pads, inspecting frequently. I know those cheap ones don't hold up on street cars. Keep it on the track and the paint clean and you might be able to make them last.


                        '98 Prelude resto/mod thread

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Originally posted by aventari View Post
                          Haven't actually weighed it yet. I'd be really curious myself. I'm guessing it's around 2500-2600 lbs? What's a stock 93 DX sedan weigh?


                          So I took it to get aligned today, I asked for 2.5 degrees up front and 2 in the rear and 0 toe.

                          The front was fine, but the car was hit in the drivers rear at the last race before I got it and it looks like it's a bit bent up. Not sure if it's the subframe bent or the unibody shifted, but there's too much camber on the passenger side and zero camber on the drivers.

                          I'm probably going to cut and shorten and reweld the drivers rear upper control arm to get 2 degrees of camber, and use washers on the passenger side to get a bit of positive and get it out to 2 degrees.

                          If I don't want to deal with cutting and welding the control arm, are these adjustable arms any good?

                          http://www.protuninglab.com/90-97-ho...id=56128534817

                          or should I not waste my time?



                          Another question: is it more likely that the rear subframe bent and I can just replace it, or is it likely the whole frame is shifted in the rear?
                          No idea on the quality of those but if something is bent then you could at least correct the camber with them.




                          Comment


                            #88
                            Question: I dont have access to post anywhere but in this thread. Is there an admin that can fix my permissions?

                            Comment


                              #89
                              I haven't been updating the thread because I haven't had too much free time. Been working on the car every spare moment.

                              My first race as team captain is in 2 weeks at Buttonwillow and the car is nearly ready.

                              The new theme for the car is TAKATA R&D (Recall And Defects)--as in the 25 million airbags they're recalling.

                              Just finished painting the car on the side of my house












                              Done a ton of work to the motor and suspension

                              Here I relocated the battery and used a snowmobile battery to save weight. I ran some old 4 gauge amp wiring to the starter and welded a bolt to the cage for a ground.


                              It's an CB7 LX so it came with the F22A1. I removed the stock exhaust and intake manifolds and added a A6 intake manifold, (and installed oil pressure, oil temp and coolant temp gauges and senders while everything was apart. I also added a used $30 ebay header and test pipe.

                              The motor has 6 or 8 races on it and 250k miles so I dropped the oil pan and installed new std rod bearings (old ones looked great) and plastigauged the main bearings (all in spec). I also welded a small baffle to the oil pan.



                              Also grabbed a 16mm rear sway bar from a 2.3CL in the junkyard, and then I PASSED SMOG. I registered the car last week and I'm going to start driving it to work this week


                              Next is an alignment with the civic ebay adjustable upper front control arms, I'm shooting for 3 degrees of camber front and 1 at the rear.
                              Last edited by aventari; 06-09-2015, 02:38 AM.

                              Comment


                                #90
                                How much time invested and what's a rough figure financially for the paint/body work start to finish?




                                Comment

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