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does my radiator have anything to do with my ac

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    does my radiator have anything to do with my ac

    i was puting freeon in and it started coming out of the radiator the side with the motor. is there something there behide it that has to do with the ac and if so the name of it. if not do i change the radiator and the ac will have no more leaks thanks

    #2
    Yes the radiator does in a way have something to do with the ac. Depending on what kind of coolant you have for your ac you will either have a small radiator in front of the regular radiator or you may have a part of the regular radiator where the ac uses to cool things down. So if the freon came out of the radiator (or looked as if it was coming out of the radiator), check the hoses/metal tubing from your ac condenser to the radiator and you will see where it is leaking from. That leak will have to be fixed because if you are releasing freon to the environment you could get a very big fine.

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      #3
      There is a separate AC radiator in front of the real radiator, your AC radiator could just be leaking not your full radiator.
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        #4
        Ac radiator??? The ac and coolant systems are completely separate. The condensor is in front of the radiator.where is the fluid coming out of? The compressor or the condensor?

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          #5
          ^ This. It sounds like you need to replace your condensor. Once that's done, you'll want to take it to a shop that does AC work, have it pulled into a vacuum and leak tested, you should have them give your compressor a check as well, since it's been sitting empty and therefore unlubricated for a while. After that, you might as well let them charge the system if it's holding.

          Comment


            #6
            Yea I agree let the shop evacuate and fill ur ac system...you didn't state it but rose lil cans of freon they sell at the auto parts stores are bad for your system...they contain sealant which could clog your entire system.

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              #7
              well the auto parts store told me i hold to change it to the new stuff and i did that and find out it has a leak

              Comment


                #8
                OK, I was reading this and really want to set a few things right. Refrigerant never under any circumstances goes into the radiator. They are 2 totally different systems. The condenser is what sits in front of the radiator and is a "heat exchanger" just like the radiator, but just for the refrigerant. No car uses "freon" anymore. That was a slang term for R-12 refrigerant. Since no car has been charged with R-12 for many years now I doubt you still have that in your system. Everything that has made it to a shop should have been retrofitted for R-134a refrigerant by now. From what I read It sounds your Condenser is whats leaking. If your system has been empty for any period of time and you live in a place where the humidity gets high you will also need a new drier. It will pull the humidity out of the air that is entering your system through the leak and it will be useless. If you do not change it out the media inside it will break loose and trash your entire system costing much much more than fixing it right the first time. You can perform this repair yourself but you will need at least a AC manifold gauge set, a vacuum pump and basic hand tools plus the knowledge of how to charge it, how much, what kind of oil to use and how to perform a vacuum pull on the system. If you do not plan on doing future AC work I would strongly recommend letting a shop handle this one because it will cost you less than purchasing the tools and the headache. Also since the system has been opened i would also recommend having it flushed and recharged with a proper oil charge considering thats probably contaminated by now as well. You could always install all the parts yourself then have the shop do the flush and and recharge and save quite a bit of funds. If you do this do the drier last and get it to a shop soon in case you still have another leak and your drier will be messed up again. If the humidity is not bad where your at you can wait longer but here it stays around 90+ percent and we have to work fast with driers/accumulators. They will have to disconnect the drier and the compressor to flush, but thats a lot less than doing it all.

                P.S. the cans of refrigerant sold at parts store are the exact same stuff we put in at shops just in a smaller can. We charge our RRR machines with 30 lb cans of the same brand stuff you can get in a 12oz can. However if it does say on the can "WITH STOP LEAK" do not use it!! because it can under the right circumstances trash your system. hope this helps.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by ravenexi View Post
                  OK, I was reading this and really want to set a few things right. Refrigerant never under any circumstances goes into the radiator. They are 2 totally different systems. The condenser is what sits in front of the radiator and is a "heat exchanger" just like the radiator, but just for the refrigerant. No car uses "freon" anymore. That was a slang term for R-12 refrigerant. Since no car has been charged with R-12 for many years now I doubt you still have that in your system. Everything that has made it to a shop should have been retrofitted for R-134a refrigerant by now. From what I read It sounds your Condenser is whats leaking. If your system has been empty for any period of time and you live in a place where the humidity gets high you will also need a new drier. It will pull the humidity out of the air that is entering your system through the leak and it will be useless. If you do not change it out the media inside it will break loose and trash your entire system costing much much more than fixing it right the first time. You can perform this repair yourself but you will need at least a AC manifold gauge set, a vacuum pump and basic hand tools plus the knowledge of how to charge it, how much, what kind of oil to use and how to perform a vacuum pull on the system. If you do not plan on doing future AC work I would strongly recommend letting a shop handle this one because it will cost you less than purchasing the tools and the headache. Also since the system has been opened i would also recommend having it flushed and recharged with a proper oil charge considering thats probably contaminated by now as well. You could always install all the parts yourself then have the shop do the flush and and recharge and save quite a bit of funds. If you do this do the drier last and get it to a shop soon in case you still have another leak and your drier will be messed up again. If the humidity is not bad where your at you can wait longer but here it stays around 90+ percent and we have to work fast with driers/accumulators. They will have to disconnect the drier and the compressor to flush, but thats a lot less than doing it all.

                  P.S. the cans of refrigerant sold at parts store are the exact same stuff we put in at shops just in a smaller can. We charge our RRR machines with 30 lb cans of the same brand stuff you can get in a 12oz can. However if it does say on the can "WITH STOP LEAK" do not use it!! because it can under the right circumstances trash your system. hope this helps.
                  Best advice i've read for a/c systems on this fourm

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                    #10
                    i changed it to 134a and replaceed the ac condenser i put the 134 in and it doesnt blow cold i put it between 25/35 the ac turn on but wasnt get cold at al what am i doing wrong

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you charged it with the proper amount. then you are either

                      A. freezing up from not having a vacuum pulled on it and there is now ice in the system.

                      B. The media in the drier has given up and trashed your system clogging everything in its path including your new condenser.

                      C. Your compressor is weak.

                      D. Your expansion valve is corroded or otherwise not functioning properly.

                      E. Your heater valve is stuck open.

                      Good Luck

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I want to point out that without a radiator, you cannot have AC. This is due to the fact that you need a radiator to run the engine, which is required to run the AC.
                        MRT
                        37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
                        30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
                        27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

                        Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

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                        I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
                        Originally posted by deevergote
                        sneaky motherfucker

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by GeoffM View Post
                          I want to point out that without a radiator, you cannot have AC. This is due to the fact that you need a radiator to run the engine, which is required to run the AC.
                          Air cooled engines

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If it looks like your refrigerate is leaking from the "radiator" mechanics please correct me if I'm wrong..I have a 2008 G6. The car was wrecked in front. A piece of plastic pierced a small hole in the radiator. My AC was not working. I never leak antifreeze so putting 2 and 2 together..I believe it pierced the heat exchanger and that's where the refrigerant leaks. So basically the radiator and the heat exchanger in newer cars are one component. The coolant lines run in a continuous loop for the engine coolant end, and another closed loop for the refrigerant/ heat exchanger. If you fix it yourself and it doesnt seem you are getting the necessary charge, it's a possibility when the refrigerant leaked out, the system prevents the compressor clutch to engage to prevent catastrophic failure. To bypass that, you will need to connect the refrigerant like normal in the low side, turn the AC fan all the way high, press the AC button and run a jumper from the compressor relay to a 12V source, u til the gage represents the system is charged. This is what all helped me..hope it helped you.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If it looks like your refrigerate is leaking from the "radiator" mechanics please correct me if I'm wrong..I have a 2008 G6. The car was wrecked in front. A piece of plastic pierced a small hole in the radiator. My AC was not working. I never leak antifreeze so putting 2 and 2 together..I believe it pierced the heat exchanger and that's where the refrigerant leaks. So basically the radiator and the heat exchanger in newer cars are one component. The coolant lines run in a continuous loop for the engine coolant end, and another closed loop for the refrigerant/ heat exchanger. If you fix it yourself and it doesnt seem you are getting the necessary charge, it's a possibility when the refrigerant leaked out, the system prevents the compressor clutch to engage to prevent catastrophic failure. To bypass that, you will need to connect the refrigerant like normal in the low side, turn the AC fan all the way high, press the AC button and run a jumper from the compressor relay to a 12V source, u til the gage represents the system is charged. This is what all helped me..hope it helped you.

                              Comment

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