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Jarrett : 1993 Accord EX (2)

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    #91
    looking great!

    From experience on my own wagon. Do not use the EX brake booster with a non ABS master cylinder. I went through 2 40/40 prop valves. The bigger brake booster just didnt work well with the pressure to the non ABS BMC. Only use the proper BMC with the proper brake booster.

    I ended up putting a LX brake booster and the non ABS BMC to fix it. However this past year I went back to the EX Brake booster with the ABS BMC on my wagon. My wagon is an EX btw.

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      #92
      Well, I planned to get a lot of work done this weekend, but I ran into a few hiccups. I got my FFC billet top hats in the mail a while back and bought some Ground Control sleeves for my Konis. I also had a new steering rack and some bushings I needed to install, so I figured I'd make a weekend out of it. Well, I procrastinated like crazy and ended up with only a few hours to work with. I was left with a few questions, some frustrations and a list of things to buy to try and get the same things done the next time I work on this car.

      For starters, here are all of the parts for my new suspension set up. The bags contain front dust covers that I can't use because the billet top hats won't fit over them. Kind of a bummer, but I'll just try to find some universal ones that fit. My rear boots were crushed in storage, so I'll need to buy a new pair before I proceed with the rears. I'm pretty excited about getting these on the car. A little silly, though, as I didn't even drive a mile on the Tein Super Streets. Those will be going up for sale as soon as this is all on the car. I already have someone interested.




      Next up on the list is bushings I received from Hardrace. I ordered spherical bearings for the rear lower shock mounts as I couldn't find the urethance bushings available anywhere. And I went with their rack bushing kit, too, as I was installing a new steering rack. Word of warning: don't buy the rack bushings. I'm pretty sure they're just a Civic/Integra kit. The mounting inserts would not fit into the holes as they were too large and the wrap-around bushing for the passenger side won't completely wrap around the entire circumference. I purchased an Energy Suspension kit for the Civic/Integra application a few months ago just to experiment with it and the same issues were present there. I assumed a kit advertised for the Accord application would have done the trick. I was wrong. I didn't get around to even trying the rear lower shock mount bushings because of time. Here are a few pictures that show the fitment. I ended up just using two of the four provided bolt bushings as that's all I could get c-clamped into place. I used the circular bushing as well.









      You can't really tell that well, but the bushings are mushrooming here.



      Notice how this bushing doesn't completely wrap around.





      I didn't get the subframe back up into place, but that will happen next time I'm in town. I'd prefer to get the non-ABS hard lines in place before that happens. I'm getting those from one of my parts cars that still has the engine in it. But I should be able to get those in a couple of weeks.

      I messed up one of my new Timken wheels bearings on the press, so I ordered a new NSK bearing to replace it. Pretty annoying to mess up a $40 bearing, but whatever. Anyway, my front suspension should be back together in a month.

      In the meantime, here's another project I'm working on. It's an adaptation of a previous attempt I made trying to merge a '01-'05 Civic steering column with the CB column. The construction was too different to mate so I looked for other alternatives. The '04-'08 TSX was closer to the CB column's length, so I went with it. If I can get this one mated it will allow me these benefits:

      - Usage of '01-'05 Civic combination switch
      - '04-'08 TSX steering wheel
      - rubber-bushed joint
      - collapsible column shaft
      - manually-telescoping shaft

      This is on the back burner for now, though. All of the wiring has been done, but it's going to require adding some mounting brackets to the dash frame. Getting the engine and suspension installed is more important. Hopefully we'll have a few more updates in a couple of weeks.
      Last edited by Jarrett; 08-05-2017, 11:00 PM.
      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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        #93
        What brand rack did you wind up going with? I have to do mine soon, but ive heard a lot of people having problems with remanned racks

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          #94
          I don't remember the brand. It's an Advance Auto reman. I needed inner tie rod ends and boots, and this seemed to be the most cost-effective way of fixing everything. I returned a rack from a parts car a while back, so the one that came in this car is being kept. It's really not in bad shape, so I may buy some OEM inner tie rods and boots and fix it up for the future.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            #95
            Still working on your ride? You made some great progress, good too see another Texas CB getting some love.


            Sold too: Grumpys93, '93CB7Ex, Bunta, prodh22accord, SSMAccord, fleetw00d

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              #96
              Yes, I am working on it still. But the only progress that's been done is wiring related that I don't have pictures of. I pulled the chassis harness from my previous Accord and have begun stripping down all of the unnecessary wiring from it. I'll lengthen the wires I need in order to tuck everything into the fenders as well as add a few wires in the cabin for the PFMs and variable intermittent wipers. I've done a combination switch swap, too, but the wiring for that is already done.

              My next project in this step if to have Wire-Worx make me a Stage 3 engine harness. The only problem is they say that they need a core for the Accords and I already cut mine up. I've labeled all of the plugs, so hopefully I can just send them the cut plugs with labels and that will be good.

              The reason I haven't really one anything other than this is that I've had lots of stuff come up with my CL and my girlfriend's Outback XT. I'm in the home stretch with the Outback and gearing up for an engine swap with the CL. Once those are done I can get back to the Accord.
              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                #97
                Looking good on the suspension set up! I myself went with some used Koni Sports and Ground Controls that I'll be installing today or tomorrow. What are the spring rates of your GC's?

                Good luck with all of those projects. You definitely have your hands full right now!
                1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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                  #98
                  Was this piece hard to take out? My threads are stripped from the last person who replaced my rack before I owned the car, I had to make bigger thread holes in order to hold mine in, it kept popping loose.

                  Last edited by Jarrett; 08-05-2017, 11:00 PM.
                  For Sale Thread CLICK HERE!

                  1991 CB9 EX Wagon

                  1990 CB7 EX Sedan

                  1997 RA1 LX Wagon

                  CB7Tuner Discord CLICK ME! -- http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...02#post3285402

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                    #99
                    I've removed that whole piece before (I bent the subframe where the control arm attaches).

                    It is not hard at all to remove. Time consuming? Yes. But, definitely not hard.

                    Plus it makes working on the rack so much easier.

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                      It was fairly effortless for me, but the engine was already out of the car. All you need to do is remove all of the hose and line holders, disconnect the steering coupler, disconnect the outer tie rods from the knuckles and the 4 long bolts that hold the subframe in. If the engine is still in the car, you'll have to take the through bolt out of the mount, but otherwise would be the same.
                      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                      Comment


                        Not much has happened ON the car in the past few months, but quite a bit has happened OFF the car.

                        I'm in the middle of replacing a brand new wheel bearing on the TL knuckles because I messed one of them up by having to remove it to get to a damaged wheel stud. I bought a second set of these knuckles, along with all associated parts, to do the same TL Brembo conversion to my CLS6. So these need to go off to the machine shop for reaming along with the lower control arms.

                        I've also been adding to the parts stash. I finally put together my fuel system after the pump. I purchased a ton of -6AN fittings and used a couple that I already had to go from the factory hard line to an inline filter, then to a flex fuel sensor and finally to a Jiffy-tite quick disconnect coupling at the fuel rail. This coupling is valved on both end and will not leak fuel if I disconnect it. I'm going to try and come up with a solution to use this same type of setup on the radiator hoses, too.



                        I also finally purchased the last two pieces I'd been holding off on for my Euro-R manifold. I had the EGR cover and throttle bracket that came with the manifold, but the cover was corroded and wasn't going to look good without paint, so I spent the few bucks and bought them from Rosko Racing. Looking back, there is absolutely zero reason to go with a Euro-R manifold over a Skunk 2 or ported H22A.



                        Here's my price list to understand my point:
                        Manifold - $310 (did include everything including injectors and throttle body that I'm not using)
                        Rosko mods - $150 (plus $25 return shipping)
                        Rosko fuel rail - $150
                        Rosko IACV adapter - $20
                        Honda IAT sensor - $10 (I happened to have one from a different car)

                        That's a $665 manifold that barely outperforms the original Skunk2, and doesn't come close to the ported H22 manifolds. And it's limited to a 68mm throttle body opening. Don't do it. Spend your money elsewhere.

                        Other stuff on the manifold:
                        RDX 410cc injectors
                        KTuned fluid-filled fuel pressure gauge
                        Rosko EGR plate
                        Rosko EGR block-off plate
                        Rosko throttle cable bracket
                        OMNI 68mm throttle body that eliminates the FITV

                        And the last major purchase I've made was to buy an '01-'05 Toyota MR-2 Spyder EHPS pump. This unit contains the reservoir, the pump and the brain all in one I have a couple of places that I'm considering mounting it in the engine bay, but nothing is concrete yet. I bought a M16x1.5 to -6AN adapter for the pump and an M14x1.5 to -6AN adapter for the rack as well as the beefiest Russell braided hose and fittings that they sell in order to plumb it up. It's advertised for power steering systems, but it's just standard 5/8" air brake hose. Either way, this should be a fun modification. The wiring will be integrated into my custom chassis harness that's in the works as well.



                        Other than that, I don't really have much. I hope to have some wiring updates one of these days, but we'll see. I've been pretty busy with work and my spare time that actually involves cars is usually spent building my high-compression J35A3 or working on the CL. Finally put on the Progress rear sway bar I bought for that thing back in 2013. So there's that.
                        Last edited by Jarrett; 07-15-2017, 04:04 AM.
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                        Comment


                          I've never been a fan for that reason on the euro-r intake. Im glad to see an honest opinion of how cost efficient it is and the break down. As far as the Mr2 pump, im curious to see the results. I've been toying with that idea for some time now and I'd like to see in action before I take the dive. Good luck bro

                          MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                            If there are any safe bets, it's that this won't be installed any time within the next three to five months. I just don't have the time to dedicate to it until I get some other stuff out of the way.
                            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                            Comment


                              Very cool stuff, looks like a far more simple install then I would have thought of, very cool way of going about power steering. I will have to read up more on this mod, seems fairly popular. Look luck with everything and always looking forward to updates.
                              Last edited by Jarrett; 05-19-2016, 12:11 AM.


                              Sold too: Grumpys93, '93CB7Ex, Bunta, prodh22accord, SSMAccord, fleetw00d

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by apalileo View Post
                                What are the spring rates of your GC's?
                                X2 what rates did you choose and where'd you end up purchasing them? You do amazing work, good stuff goin' on in this thread

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