thanks for the help, at first i thought it was my head gasket, but i guess it just run down to it. much rather it be this seal instead, lol
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
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cam shaft seal leaking
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You may not be able to tell but that particular seal may just not have aligned properly (just cant see it).
Logically if its intalled properly then it could only be the metal or the seal. If its not the metal then its the seal.
Unlikely to be the metal (unless it has chips or a crack) so it can only be the seal.
If the seal is new then i could only deduce that it was human error in its installation.
No biggie, and happens to the best of mechanics hence they cheat and use gasket makers just in case it does happen (the liquid blue or grey paste) - so that if it isn't installed correctly this paste will make up for the slack. It saves them from needing to reopen it so soon. That way when it does leak its of their warranty period.Rides:
Accord
92-JDM-2.0 Si- "4ws" - Cobalt Blue Pearl
96-AUDM-2.2 VTiS- Heather Mist
CR-X
88-JDM-Si- Black
CR-X Del Sol
92-JDM-SiR "Transtop" Motegi Edition - Silver
95-JDM-SiR "Transtop" Daytona Edition - Silver
92-JDM-SiR "Transtop" - Black
Prelude
91-JDM-Si-4ws "Si States" - Phoenix Red
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita Lux Edition" - Bordeaux Red Pearl
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita" - Cobalt Blue Pearl
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita Lux Edition"- Gun Metal Grey
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It's also quite possible you rolled the lip of the seal when you installed it. This can cause a leak, and is hard to see once installed. You have to be very careful when installing it, I always watch the entire diamater to make sure the lip doesn't get caught.Originally posted by sweet91accordif aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.
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What's the easiest way to replace the cam seal? When I had my rocker shaft assembly off to do the lower o-ring spark plug seals, it looked like the spring of my cam seal had come loose out of the seal.
I was thinking I might be able to remove the upper timing belt cover, loosen the timing belt tension with the adjuster and remove the timing belt from the cam sprocket after marking its location on the cam sprocket. I would then remove the cam sprocket with an impact to get to the cam seal. Is this method the best way, or is there an easier way to replace the cam seal?
Thanks.
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Ok boys, ive replaced my cam seal, with a new one from Honda, slid in perfect, i also took RTV sealant on my valve cover gasket and let it dry for 24 hours. Started it today and its still barely seeps and mainly when i rev it a little. Its coming from the corner before the round hump starts, best i can tell, like where the rocker arm assembly mounts to the head, its hard to see where its coming from and i don't know what to do. please help, going back tomorrow to figure something out maybe put a little rtv on the edge of where rocker arm assembly meets head, dont know. thanks
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Originally posted by tootall View PostOk boys, ive replaced my cam seal, with a new one from Honda, slid in perfect, i also took RTV sealant on my valve cover gasket and let it dry for 24 hours. Started it today and its still barely seeps and mainly when i rev it a little. Its coming from the corner before the round hump starts, best i can tell, like where the rocker arm assembly mounts to the head, its hard to see where its coming from and i don't know what to do. please help, going back tomorrow to figure something out maybe put a little rtv on the edge of where rocker arm assembly meets head, dont know. thanks
Try taking the gasket completely off, cleaning the mating surfaces of oil, and using The Right Stuff instead of a gasket. It will conform perfectly to the surfaces and is pretty easy to remove from the valve cover and head mating surfaces (at least, the last time I did it it was easy). It's like spraying a bead of cheeze wiz on your valve cover except it instantly turns into a gasket. Make sure the bead is of fairly constant thickness going all around. Spray it right into the groove on the valve cover, thick enough to extend out of the groove and form a gasket surface between the cover and the head mounting surface. You can "spread" it a little using a piece of plastic (old credit card works) to even out any uneven spots, but try not to trap any big pockets of air in there while doing it. Once it's sprayed on you can immediately assemble the valve cover and tighten.
A can of The Right Stuff costs $14 and will make maybe 6 complete valve cover gaskets, versus a new valve cover gasket costing about $20 per.
Worked for me.
nice car by the way!Last edited by batever; 03-27-2010, 03:20 PM.
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