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Main relay good, but no voltage at pump

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    #16
    so maybe I don't follow what your saying,

    ran a few more test trying to eliminate on or the other and heres what I got.

    when key is on blk/grn does not release from ground
    when key is on grn/blk goes to ground.

    tested the ground wire of ecu and its good.
    checked continuity of grn/blk, its good
    checked continuity of blk/grn, its good
    checked continuity of ground from ecu to relay, its good
    tested the starter cut relay and its good.

    I'm not a electrical genius so I'm having a hard time looking at the schematic and determining whats what. I wish I knew what wires were sending a positive/negative signal and which are receiving signal. like, between the ecu , the main relay, the starter cut, and the clutch interlock. I feel like I could chase it down if I knew the flow path once the key is on.

    I don't have my old f22 ecu. if so I would jus plug that in and turn the key and see if fuel pump turns on. that would tell me if my ecu is good or not.

    I'm not sure which way to go, except start all over

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      #17
      I drew a *really* crude schematic. I hope it helps!



      EDIT: Also, the YEL/BLK wire "holds" the fuel pump relay on, while the BLK/GRN wire "turns" it on. I'm basing that off of the fact that the main relay in the schematic has a resistor and a diode attached to the fuel pump relay coil. This limits the current flow (resistor), in one direction (diode) to the fuel pump relay coil.

      The BLK/GRN wire, only has a diode which means the fuel pump relay coil gets full inrush current from the clutch interlock switch.

      Fun fact, an inductive coil spikes in current when a voltage is first applied to it, then it comes down to a low amount.
      Last edited by sonikaccord; 11-30-2017, 08:03 PM.

      YouTube Clicky!!

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        #18
        awesome man, this is really helping paint a full picture, but what is OV referring to?

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          #19
          0V is zero volts. Sorry about my trashy handwriting.

          YouTube Clicky!!

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            #20
            got ya. 0v. I was thinking ov.

            tomorrow I'm going to take all this info and start over.
            hopefully with this I can narrow it down.
            in all actuallaity from all I have done its prob enough info to say its the ecu.

            do u think if I took the ecu (as far as the main relay is concerned) out of the equation and sent 12v to yellow and 12v to yel/blk it would run?

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              #21
              Originally posted by kratemertyl View Post
              got ya. 0v. I was thinking ov.

              tomorrow I'm going to take all this info and start over.
              hopefully with this I can narrow it down.
              in all actuallaity from all I have done its prob enough info to say its the ecu.

              do u think if I took the ecu (as far as the main relay is concerned) out of the equation and sent 12v to yellow and 12v to yel/blk it would run?
              Most definitely! Just go all out and get a racecar switch panel for those wires.

              YouTube Clicky!!

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                #22
                had a minor difference between your description of the relay and what I actually have. I don't have a #4 terminal heres how mine reads
                7=yellow (fuel pump power)
                5=blk/yel (12v activated by key)
                3=yel/blk (wire that leads to injector resistor box and o2 sensor)
                1=yel/blu (constant 12v to relay)

                8=grn/blk ( to ecu)
                6=blk/grn (to clutch interlock I think)
                2=blk (ground to ecu and to ground at rear of motor)

                ok so with all that info heres how today went down,
                turned key on and had 12v at 1,3 and 5
                jumped power to yellow, fuel pump runs, motor turns over but will not fire

                for some reason I started looking at the clutch interlock. the schematic shows it having a blu/red wire from the fuse box fuse #9
                checked fuse, fuse is good and reading power on both sides but no voltage at connection of switch.(scratching my head)

                took off the switch
                .
                wont turn over.
                tried applying 12v to the other wire of the switch which is blk/grn
                I hear a relay click
                turn key, engine turns over but no fire

                look at how the alarm was tapped into this blu/red wire with two wires.

                cut them out of the loop and connect blu/red back together

                still no start

                try connectiong those two alarm wires together
                no start
                applied 12v to those alarm wires and 12v to blk/green at clutch interlock
                turns over but wont fire
                apply 12v to yel at main relay, fuel pump runs, apply 12v at blk/grn, relay clicks
                still wont fire

                then all of a sudden (think I may have messed up the relay) when I turn the key the fuel pump turns on
                yay right?
                no
                still wont fire

                when the key is turned on the pump dosent prime and then shut off, it jus goes continueous
                still showing 12v at yel/blk
                so u would think it should start
                reading good fuel pressure at rail.
                even hit the TB with a little ether.
                nothing.
                I'm guessing no spark
                didn't get around to pulling a plug and checking. its seems pretty obvious that there is none.

                I'm even more confused then I was before

                because according to the schematic it should all be good now
                I see on there though that the blk/grn travels from the clutch interlock switch to whats refered to as the PGM-FI elec control unit.
                what the hell is that?
                I would check for voltage at the resistor box but I cant seem to find it after my wire tuck.lol.
                I origanlly suspected this because I know its on the driver side and that's where I got hit. so even though the car ran after the accident I wondered if maybe the wire had interference somewhere around there.
                but then I figured that wouldn't be causing the fuel pump not to turn on.

                this sucks, its perfect weather for the car right now
                #carforsale

                Comment


                  #23
                  Have you tried starting it up with another ECU?
                  Keep Pushing..

                  Comment


                    #24
                    No, still trying to get my hands on one.

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                      #25
                      I had this issue last week in my 90. Cranked, but wouldn't fire, couldn't hear pump running. Did much of the troubleshooting you're describing. Installed a spare ECM I had and she fired right up.
                      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                        #26
                        wow .. went to rep you on this Son, but it says that I gotta spread it around a bit more.
                        Someone hit this cat up for me .. THIS is what this site is all about!


                        Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
                        I drew a *really* crude schematic. I hope it helps!




                        My CB9/Wagon Thread Start to Finish:
                        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ighlight=wagon

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                          #27
                          Update,
                          Found a cb laying behind some tire shop. Politely asked the old man to borrow the ECU and he generously agreed. Plugged it in to my car and the fuel pump turned on
                          Ordered a p28 off eBay.
                          It came in yesterday. Gonna pick up a socket kit for the hondata and get this thing plugged in. More to come next week.

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