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Jarrett : 1993 Accord EX (2)

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    Originally posted by baracuda View Post
    Very cool stuff, looks like a far more simple install then I would have thought of, very cool way of going about power steering. I will have to read up more on this mod, seems fairly popular. Look luck with everything and always looking forward to updates.
    Here are a couple of links that I've referenced:

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/electo-hy...4-t568877.html

    http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599


    Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
    X2 what rates did you choose and where'd you end up purchasing them? You do amazing work, good stuff goin' on in this thread
    They're for a 2003-2007 Honda Accord or 2004-2008 TL/TSX. I'm not sure on the spring rate, as they were purchased from someone local who bought them and didn't use them. I'll grab the part number off of them the next time I'm in town and see if I can find out.


    I bought rear upper top hats from Cheddas and I'd like to pair those along with some helper springs in the rear.

    I should also have my engine and chassis wire harness that I mentioned previously finished here in the next two weeks.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      I'm updating this thread because it showed up in the results for a Google search I made about the Ground Control coilover sleeves.

      The coilover sleeves I have are for a 2003-2007 Accord and are 8" tall x 2.5" I.D. x 475lb(front)/300lb(rear). I'm okay with the rates, but I'm wondering if I should go taller on the rear springs. They match the physical dimensions of the Ground Control part number available for the CB, but when actually mounting them on the Koni yellow shocks, it seems that I have a ton of room to grow. I have to compress the shock through about 75% of its range to get the spring to seat on the top hat when the collar is halfway down on the sleeve! That's crazy! I have the Cheddas Auto rear top hats that give me back quite a bit of lost shock travel, but I'm thinking a 10" spring might help out here, as well.

      Does anyone have an opinion on this? I know some of you guys have installed helper springs, so this might be another way of achieving the same outcome, more or less.
      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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        I had a long, drawn out answer for you, and then it got lost.

        In short, a 10" spring of the same rate is the same as raising the perch on your 8" spring up 2". The longer spring raises the point where you engage the initial rate of the spring. The 10" spring will have a higher block height and load, but I have 8" 300 lbs/in springs in the rear and I doubt I've ever come close to full block (1,513 lbs per spring). A lower rate 10" spring could help, but there'll still be some free play when the suspension is at full droop, and you have to consider just how low of a rate would still be acceptable in conjunction with your 475 lbs/in springs up front, maybe 10" 200 lbs/in.
        1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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          I've posted about this somewhat vaguely in other posts, I think-if not, I've certainly mentioned it to a few friends-but I will be forgoing any plans to keep this car a 4-cylinder and will be installing a J-series V6.

          This makes sense for me for a number of reasons. I've owned a few of these engines in various vehicles, and driven more beyond that. Most notably, the three Acura CL-S6s that I've owned. This engine with a 6-speed transmission is VERY good. While it doesn't have the same following that the LS engine does, or even close, it has been utilized by many different groups in the automotive world. Drag racers, show cars, rock crawlers, dune buggies, Miata folks and even a few FWD road racers are catching on to it. They're cheap, they're everywhere and they're available in so many different configurations.

          I started building a 3.5L engine a couple of years ago for my CL. I've posted that engine here a couple of times. As I've begun to lose interest in how involved I wanted that project to be, I decided to come up with a different use for that engine. It would have required a standalone or piggyback in order to perform optimally, and I didn't really feel like spending the same on that car as I ultimately would on the CB to have pretty similar cars in the end. So that one is just going to be an "OEM+" with headers and suspension. All that has been done, so it's pretty much as it will be from here on out, save some paint and body that it needs.

          So I have a spare engine that I've built with a J35A3 block, crankshaft and rods, J32A3 pistons (11.0:1 in an 86mm stroke application-this is a 93mm) ported J32A2 heads, J32A2 camshafts, ported J32A3 runners and a J37A4 intake manifold. I'm guessing it will do about 285whp on an average dyno with a conservative tune. The plan now is to buy a set of Hasport mounts and mock it up in the car once I've gotten settled after my move back to Houston.

          A few that have done this swap have had issues with hood clearance and axle angle. I want to address both by getting the engine as far back as is required so that I have the ideal axle angle (or lack of an angle, to be more clear) and utilize the shorter J37A4 intake manifold too try to avoid cutting the hood. Clearancing some inner structure would be fine, but I would hate to have a hole visible from the outside.

          Anyhow, I'll start posting some of the stuff I've recently purchased for this transition. I wanted to do it in a separate post for those who are't so big on the wordiness.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            Stash of AN fittings from a few recent Jegs orders. This was just enough to complete the fuel system, when combined with a couple of things I already had.




            AEM boost gauge and sensor
            MAC boost solenoid (same one AEM uses and they just put a sticker on it)
            AEM oil pressure gauge and sensor
            AEM UEGO wideband O2 sensor
            '10-'13 J37A1 DBW throttle body
            '13-17 Accord Sport DBW accelerator pedal

            I am having the harness made to include provisions for boost at a later date, though I will be running N/A for a while. These mil-spec harnesses aren't very modular, so all foreseeable future considerations needed to be accounted for. All of these harnesses are going to Jacob at TuckTech in a couple of weeks. They will be made to run the engine on an AEM Infinity 6 ECU. I'll purchase that once I've recovered from all of this stuff and the harness purchase. Two additional sensors that this will run are a coolant pressure sensor (meaningful under very heavy boost in the event of a head lifting, so not really needed now) and a fuel pressure sensor. Both of those will solely be sent to the ECU for data with no interior gauge readout.




            Here's what I'm 90% sure will be the complete fuel system, minus the 5 missing injectors. If anyone wants a broken down list, I can give it to them, but you can kind of tell what everything is in the picture. Just organized based on fuel path. Once the engine goes in, I'll buy the other 5 injectors. The one was purchased separately to test fit it into this application. The second-generation J-series engines use Denso injectors with a very similar form factor to the newer Bosch EV14 injectors that the ID, FIC and other aftermarket injectors are based on. So, any EV14 injector is a direct swap. I researched some OEM injectors and the highest-capacity EV14 ever offered by an OEM seems to be the '13-'14 GT500 600cc injectors. They're around $32/each! This will get me by just fine while I'm N/A!

            Anyhow, that's a little update for now. I'm working on more coolant, brake line and clutch line plumbing as well since I'm in an AN fitting mood. We'll see if I actually go through with all of that, though. The added cost may not be worth the ease of plumbing.
            Last edited by Jarrett; 08-05-2017, 11:03 PM.
            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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              This is absolutely fascinating. I look forward to seeing your new direction develop. I especially hope you manage to fit everything without having to expose the manifold through the hood. Good luck!
              1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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                Alright, I've updated all of the photos in this thread. It took a little while, but not as long as some other folks' threads would take!
                My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                  I just went through your whole thread, fantastic work!

                  Please keep us updated on the J swap, I'm debating it myself once I sell my '13 Accord since I just got a daily to replace it ('04 RL).
                  Originally posted by deevergote.
                  And please, for the love of God, type like a human being!

                  Comment


                    Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately, since getting more involved in my current job, I've been away from the car except for a few days here and there. That causes situations like I've cyclically gone through where I will load up with parts and keep them on a shelf or in storage. As time passes I lose things, forget what I have, or change my mind about the direction I want to take. I have some really rare parts for this car, but I'm not even sure I want to install them now. I may have still come to the same conclusion had I installed most of it a long time ago and just grown out of it, but this way I don't even get the satisfaction of the time where I do like what I've just installed or spent good money on. It's built so vividly in my head, though, that it' easy to continue to fall into that trap.

                    I'm in the process of buying a home in Houston that will finally allow me to have my car with me, though. It's a month or so away, as we're still negotiating with the entrenched seller, but something should happen soon. Then I'll get the garage wired for 240V and finally get the J-series mounts fabbed up and installed.
                    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                      Always good to see another v6 swap underway, I wish I could have been able to take the same route.

                      good luck with the home purchase and move! Cant wait to see more coming in time.


                      Sold too: Grumpys93, '93CB7Ex, Bunta, prodh22accord, SSMAccord, fleetw00d

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                        info about the DBW setup?
                        COUPE K24

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                          It's a throttle body from a '10-'13 Acura ZDX which, aside from the direction the coolant nipples are bent, is the exact same thing as a J37A4 throttle body from the Acura TL SH-AWD. It's 69mm in stock form, and can be bored to around 73mm with a tapered opening.

                          The pedal is from a '13-'17 Accord Sport, but is just like any other '13-'17 pedal, only with the metal surface on the pad.

                          The Infinity 6 ECU will allow them to communicate with each other once the wiring harness is done. I'm hearing that I'm next in line from Jacob at Ascension Motorsports. The harness is part of his TuckTech line, with a few major upgrades in sleeving, added Deutsch connectors and provided schematics.
                          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                            oo ok i forgot your using infinity. thats badass man!
                            COUPE K24

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                              Well I hope to be using it, anyway. Right now it's just sitting in a box leaned up against the wall in the game room. It holds the Wi-Fi range extender about a foot off the ground for optimal signal.
                              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                                That’s an expensive holder lol.

                                On using the tl knuckles instead of reaming the lca, can you just swap ball joints?
                                COUPE K24

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