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93 Accord race car Build/Questions thread

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    #16
    I smiled.

    Thank you
    750 WHP/575 TQ CD5 Raping a street near you....
    realHomeMadeTurbo.com / Kaizenspeed.com / LSD Motorsports / Tempest Racing /SpeedFactory /ExplicitSpeedPerformance

    GFI HOLLA!!!!!!


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdiz0k0Rudw

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      #17
      turbocharge it. it will still be a $500 car in that condition lol.
      seriously though, this is awesome. that's what I call gutted!

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by tishock View Post
        Suspension
        Cutting our springs... Most will tell you this is a horrible idea with our cars. The suspension becomes scary unpredictable. Hell, if it's allowed I have some Tokico springs laying around the garage I can give you. I think they are 1.25" drop front and rear. A much better option than cutting.
        Cut springs arent that bad, especially for a car that is only going to last one race... if it lasts that long... Here is why.

        Disclaimer: Not for highway vehicles!!!!
        Call me Travis.
        2006 Cobalt LS/SC ~ "Burt the Bloody Bumble Bee"
        1992 Accord LX ~ "Smoothie"
        1991 CRX Si ~ Hellion
        1989 GMC S15 ~ Oldie

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          #19
          Wanted to do the timing belt/valve job today, but I couldn't pick the car up until 3:30pm because the keys went missing

          Now gonna have to bust ass tomorrow to get the timing belt done.

          I did have an hour or so of light so I started removing everything from the top, and got down to pulling the A/C compressor. Fucker is heavy! Glad it's being trashed

          Do I have to pull to motor mount tomorrow to get to the timing belt?
          Whats the best process?

          A friend lent me the crank pulley locking tool, so I luckily have that.





          Comment


            #20
            yea you have to remove the motor mount
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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              #21
              It is easy to remove the through bolt from the middle and unbolt it from the block?
              is it fine to put a jack under the oil pan to hold up the motor when pulling it?

              Comment


                #22
                you dont unbolt anything from the block, the block has a seperate mount which attaches to the motor mount.

                a lot of times, i just let the motor hang because you need it to droop down so that you can access the crank bolt.

                Before you do anything though, attempt to loosen the crank bolt. i bought a 36" 3/4 drive breaker bar just for removing crank bolts.

                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE-pzP8g_x4
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                  #23
                  Today I did a lot of work. Replaced the timing belt, removed the balance shaft belt and related parts, and put new p/s and alternator belts, modified the alternator casing for extra cooling, installed new 170F thermostat, put on a good used 1.1 bar spare Miata radiator cap, adjusted all the valves, opened up the air box, gutted some more of the doors, cut out hood bracing, and cut a cooling hole in the hood.


                  Removing the crank pulley bolt, first I tried my impact gun which never had a prayer.


                  Next I used a friend's pulley tool and my 1/2" breaker. I had two extensions on the breaker, and this is what happened:



                  Luckily I kept trying with just one 6" extension and doing a quad press against the bar finally broke the bolt loose. Ridiculous!

                  Realized I didn't need the upper window frames so cut that off:


                  Cut a vent in the hood, this should vent post radiator air and hot exhaust manfiold air




                  I pulled the distributor cap and checked out the contacts. I should probably get a new cap and rotor, except I couldn't remove the rotor.. There's supposed to be a set screw holding the rotor but I couldn't find it and the rotor was on there pretty damn tight. Any ideas?
                  Last edited by aventari; 11-15-2010, 12:27 AM.

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                    #24
                    Does anyone here track their Accord? Does this fuel tank have issues with fuel starvation on long sweeping corners?

                    Comment


                      #25
                      theres enough baffling inside the fuel tank to prevent that unless you are running on fumes.
                      I <3 G60.

                      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                        #26
                        ahh good to know. My old VW Rabbit would starve on corners on anything less than 1/2 a tank and I only found that out on the race track. I didn't want to be in the middle of a the race to find out the Accord does it too

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by aventari View Post
                          Does anyone here track their Accord? Does this fuel tank have issues with fuel starvation on long sweeping corners?
                          I will be tracking mine but from my experience anything above 1/4 it doesnt starve.
                          Call me Travis.
                          2006 Cobalt LS/SC ~ "Burt the Bloody Bumble Bee"
                          1992 Accord LX ~ "Smoothie"
                          1991 CRX Si ~ Hellion
                          1989 GMC S15 ~ Oldie

                          Comment


                            #28
                            This makes me so happy. I hope you do well. I see you have some brake ducting going on!

                            You can remove more stuff. Do you need corner lamps? Side mirrors? Remove the header heat shield since you have that hole in the hood. You don't need the rod that holds the hood up.

                            Move the battery to the trunk and bolt it down. Weight distribution. Also, you can toss the black box and canister bolted to the firewall. You just need to keep the MAP sensor obviously. You'll just throw a EGR code thats it, no big deal.

                            Washer fluid reservoir and intake air resonator box can come out from behind the front bumper if you haven't already.

                            The more weight you can take off the front and put in the rear the better.
                            There are no black and white suspension answers!!!!!!!!!!!

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Take off the front bumper and swiss cheese the bumper bracing.


                              I would love to try something like this!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Ever watch MythBusters? There's an episode where they turn a car into a golf ball with dimples, and it ends up being more aerodynamic. So drive the car through a hail storm before the race, or "simulate" a hail storm to the exterior of the car.
                                PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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