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The seam where the roof panel (which folds down to where the hinges are) meets the rest of the structure is rusting. Last year I tried to wire brush and treat it (it was through in a few small places) and cover it, but it is back. The shop that did Ruby has changed hands twice; they no longer do rust repair.
Mundane stuff. The rear lock cylinder no longer unlocked the lock, my antenna wasn't going all the way down. Disassembled the rear hatch to find the plastic clip that holds the lock rod to the latch was broken - easy fix.
Pulled the left side of the interior to access the antenna and found a large puddle of water below the antenna. Looked like the antenna pocket, the quarter vent, and the tail light were leaking. Installed a rebuilt antenna and lined the inner bracket with electrical tape to increase the clamp on the seal of the outer plate.
I was able to access the quarter vent by undoing the front edge of the left side of the bumper and pulling out enough to get my hand with a very short screwdriver to remove the vent. Created a new thicker gasket with some weatherstripping tape. Did the same with the tail light. Poured water over everything on the outside - no leaks evident. It is supposed to rain the next couple days; I'll leave the interior trim off to check it.
Need to pull the right side and check for tail light leaks there.
Jan. 7: Pulled the right side trim (top piece needed to be replaced anyway); all dry on that side. Installed another fuel door, the tabs that hold the cap while you're filling up were broken.
Feb. 9: Rebuilt power steering pump and installed it; still had a puddle of fluid under the car the next day. Found the return line pipe to hose joint above the crossmember leaking; tightened the existing hose clamp and installed a second one for backup. Drain and fill of the transmission. Oil and filter change. Installed cleaner valve cover.
Installed new front pads the other day and adjusted the parking brake (lever always came up too high). While reinstalling the console, I discovered the left rear passenger foot well was quite wet (lots of rain lately). Have to wait until it warms up to try to find the leak.
Got it back Friday. Painted the area early Saturday morning, installed hatch and wiring. It passed a water bucket test and then car wash test (it was covered in dust from the body shop). Installed all the interior pieces.
Installed a right front axle; this has cured my vibration under acceleration problem.
Painted black trim between the front and rear door windows on the driver side. Painted LR door rub strip. Refreshed the chrome strip on the tail lights.
Just need to double check the balance shaft timing (shakes at idle) and probably install rear brakes shoes, then it'll pretty much be ready for market.
Mar. 26, 2019: Compared the existing brake shoes to the new ones, probably still 2/3 thickness left so I didn't install new shoes. Balance shaft timing was OK.
Mar. 28, 2019: Found a hatch hose and wiper arm at Bessler's yesterday, installed both. Cleaned engine compartment and interior today.
Looking good Fleetwood. Did you find the source of that leak?
I found a large tear in the left rear door weatherstrip (maybe it was frozen to the body when someone opened the door during the winter?). I put a piece of foam inside the torn area to support it, then used some adhesive to repair the tear. It has remained dry since.
While I had the hatch off and the black roof strips out, I also sealed up some cracks in the sealer in those troughs.
April 2, 2019: Installed new rear engine mount without removing the intake manifold. Not as bad as I thought it would be. Took some pictures along the way so I can update a DIY that is missing them.
April 11, 2019: Flushed brake fluid and changed engine coolant
Had two people come and drive it, the first person was concerned about the vibration at idle. I changed the rear engine mount (old mount was definitely bad). That helped some, but the second person drove it after the mount change and commented as well (it does shake more than any other Accord i've owned, but I guess I got used to it - the kids drove it most of the time).
Figured I'd do some more troubleshooting. No codes. Saturday I pulled each plug wire at idle and the engine stumbled for all four indicating I have spark and fuel at each cylinder. Base timing is right at 15 BTDC. Disconnecting EGR makes no difference.
This evening checked compression, 180 psi on all four cylinders; the injector resistor, all are at 6.0 ohms; all injectors at 2.0 ohms. Pulled the EGR valve off to verify that it doesn't leak when closed (it doesn't), cleaned it some more anyway. Very little carbon in the passages below the valve.
Put it all back together, now it won't start. Cranks as fast as always, I hear the pump run and smell fuel at the tailpipe. Hooked up a timing light to the coil wire so I could watch while cranking - nothing. Got cold and late; back at it tomorrow.
Did you pull the dizzy plugs? I would verify all connections again and check for spark. Your coil or igniter could have went out on you, just at the right time. EGR wouldn’t affect your start
Only thing I did relative to ignition was pull the wires off the plugs and pull the plugs. Didn't disturb the wires at the distributor.
Whole evening spent following the manual. Came down to a bad ignition coil. Resistance from terminal A to the secondary output (to the distributor) was 8 kohms; it is supposed to be about 20 kohms. Installed the coil from Rose, started right up. Seems to have smoothed out the idle as well.
I guess I should have done this long ago! Not sure how a coil will run the engine one day, then fail the next. I should probably right something up for Engine DIY.
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