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    VTEC Solenoid Help

    I know there are alot of posts on code 21, and I have read as many as I could find on here and elsewhere. I have not quite seen my exact problem yet.

    Code 21 comes up when ignition is turned on and stays on (that part is not that out of the ordinary)

    I tried many different chassis ground points with my sub harness inside and outside the motor: same code at the same time.

    I read resistance from the solenoid plug to the motor: 15.6 ohms.

    Then I read resistance from the solenoid plug to the chassis: no reading.

    Should I check my motor to chassis ground continuity? I am wondering if I should not be using the nicely painted valve cover in that connection and ground instead directly to aluminum.

    Also, how exactly do I check for the "click" the solenoid should make? I know it needs 12 volts signal to actuate, but do I connect both 12V and ground to the single pin in the connector to check this?

    Thank you in advance for the help!
    *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
    ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
    ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

    F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
    "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


    MRT
    Selling on Ebay!

    15.10 @ 90.42mph
    The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
    Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

    #2
    I just started thinking about this. Doesn’t the vtec solenoid only have one wire and that wire should go straight into the Ecu into pin a4?
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

    Comment


      #3
      Yes, that is true. The subharness I am using also has the pressure switch and knock sensor clips/pins, like most standard VTEC swap sub harnesses. I am not using those two, so they are unplugged. The ground for the whole subharness, I just found, is in the pressure switch clip. So, I tried to jump that with a paperclip to get ground, but no cigar (maybe too much resistance, perhaps), and I still have the code.

      Doesn't the VTEC solenoid need to be grounded even if you do not use the other sensors? If so, how can you go about grounding it properly to the motor?
      *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
      ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
      ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

      F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
      "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


      MRT
      Selling on Ebay!

      15.10 @ 90.42mph
      The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
      Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

      Comment


        #4
        I believe it grounds it self out against the engine. The only wire going to it is the power wire. I wonder if your throwing a code for the pressure switch. If you are try this: You can bypass the switch by splitting the vtec solenoid wire and have one going to pin a4 and then tap that wire and run the other one to D6. This eliminated the CEL. And the need for the pressure switch or a chipped ECU. So I bought one of those tap clamps and tapped into the a4 wire and then ran the other wire to D6. Your Ecu May be looking for that pressure switch.
        Last edited by Grumpys93; 06-15-2019, 07:20 AM.
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

        Comment


          #5
          I tapped into the VTEC solenoid wire tonight with the cut pressure switch wire that was pinned to D6. I still have code 21 at ignition, poo...I always reset the ECU and test clearing the code, but the code comes right back. Man, these are finicky! You are right about the solenoid grounding itself, I verified that today.

          I just found out how and checked for the click. It clicks!

          I guess that is good news, but it means I still don't know what is wrong...err.

          Could the fact that the gauge of wire used for the sub harness is like 20-22AWG be causing issues?
          *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
          ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
          ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

          F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
          "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


          MRT
          Selling on Ebay!

          15.10 @ 90.42mph
          The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
          Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

          Comment


            #6
            It should be pinned to a6 not D6. Also you might want to verify that all your pins are in the right spots. I used 20 gauge for my harness and I didn’t have issues.
            ~Nick~
            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

            Comment


              #7
              Wait, A6? There is already an orange wire coming out of there with a black stripe. I t-tapped that wire to see if that would work, and still have the code at ign... Are you supposed to remove that wire's pin then pin the bypass wire there?
              *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
              ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
              ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

              F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
              "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


              MRT
              Selling on Ebay!

              15.10 @ 90.42mph
              The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
              Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

              Comment


                #8
                Nope I’m sorry I read my notes wrong you are correct D6. What Ecu are you running?
                Last edited by Grumpys93; 06-15-2019, 09:30 AM.
                ~Nick~
                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                Comment


                  #9
                  So do you have an engine block to chassis wire?

                  YouTube Clicky!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The ECU is a P06-A52, the same one sonikaccord originally installed S300 in for me (thanks again, man!).

                    I do have an engine block to chassis wire on the timing side mount. I hooked it from the mount bracket on the engine to the bracket on the chassis that the mount bolts to. I also use a 2-way negative terminal (4AWG) from the battery that grounds to the transmission and the chassis. For that chassis ground, I made sure to use sandpaper to expose metal.
                    *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
                    ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
                    ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

                    F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
                    "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


                    MRT
                    Selling on Ebay!

                    15.10 @ 90.42mph
                    The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
                    Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My stupid butt! P06 ECUs cannot run VTEC straight from a4 without being converted to a p28. No wonder I have the code! I am going about the Hondata solution with an automotive relay and using A15 as the output.

                      *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
                      ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
                      ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

                      F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
                      "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


                      MRT
                      Selling on Ebay!

                      15.10 @ 90.42mph
                      The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
                      Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Case closed, that relay method is easy and works perfectly. After I loaded the new map in the car (VTEC on, disable spool error check on, add additional VTEC output on for A15) the code went away! And then....I let it warm up....and then

                        VTAAAAAKKKK YOOOOOOOO!







                        Last edited by af_1132; 06-17-2019, 12:33 AM.
                        *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
                        ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
                        ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

                        F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
                        "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


                        MRT
                        Selling on Ebay!

                        15.10 @ 90.42mph
                        The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
                        Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Nice job! Glad to hear it was a simple solution! Loved all the VTEC memes .
                          ~Nick~
                          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                          Comment

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