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grinding, shifting at 6k(2nd & 3rd)

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    grinding, shifting at 6k(2nd & 3rd)

    Once I bought my cb7, haven't really gunned or did a couple runs until recently on Thursday, I went to my work and decided to do a couple 1/4 mile runs.

    At full throttle all the way to my shift point at 6k once I shift to second you can hear a grinding noise but stops immediately when I'm already in gear and clutch is let off. So it only appears to happen when I shift fast , but when I try slowly engaging the clutch let the rpms drop a little then shift into gear it does not grind at all but this is pointless in a race...this happens only in 2nd and 3rd gear.

    Short shifting no grind.
    Quick and hard shift I get a grind & loss of traction in second gear ....


    Originally posted by deevergote
    .......If they seem smart, and just trying to learn, I'll offer as much help as possible. If they seem stupid and lazy, I'll do my best to piss them off so they leave and never come back... while still answering the question.

    #2
    you could try changing your tranny fluid. mine grinded bad, changed it with castrol oil and lucas still grinds but better. it may be better to get some genuine honda mtf though.

    Comment


      #3
      mine has the same problem but in 2nd gear so your not the only one i had the same problem on my old civic too and a lot of other hondas i see have that too so im starting to wonder if this isnt one of those normal honda problems but good luck with the fix though


      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=189897 MRT
      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...09#post3003309 EF hatch build

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        #4
        royle purple syncromesh will stop it from grinding...mine used to pop out of 3rd but it dosent now..replace with royal purple syncromesh and it will be fine..

        my new turbo build

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          #5
          The grinding is due to worn synchronizers... so no fluid is ever going to fix what is already damaged. A good fluid (GM Synchromesh, Royal Purple Synchromesh, Honda MTF) will help mask the problem, and slow down additional wear... but the only way to actually fix it is to rebuild the transmission.






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            #6
            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
            The grinding is due to worn synchronizers... so no fluid is ever going to fix what is already damaged. A good fluid (GM Synchromesh, Royal Purple Synchromesh, Honda MTF) will help mask the problem, and slow down additional wear... but the only way to actually fix it is to rebuild the transmission.
            ^^This, no fluid is going to fix a worn out or broken synchro. this is a common issue with high mileage trans. on our cars. Mine had the same issue and would scratch from 2nd to 3rd at any RPM over 3k... so depending on skill level you can buy new ones and replace them, buy a newish trans (still run a risk if high miles), or have a shop do it (not cheap)
            Last edited by baracuda; 07-23-2011, 04:30 PM.


            Sold too: Grumpys93, '93CB7Ex, Bunta, prodh22accord, SSMAccord, fleetw00d

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              #7
              If the gears are grinding, they are damaged as well. If the time and money is going to be spent rebuilding, new gears would be a wise choice as well. the parts are actually fairly inexpensive, but the labor is intensive. It's not cheap to have a fully rebuilt transmission done for you. If you can do it yourself, it'd be a few hundred dollars. Easily over $1000 to have it done. I believe 6 years ago or so, h22sparkle had gear-speed rebuild his transmission for about $1200.






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                #8
                Well, Im currently rebuilding my F22A1 for boost, previous owner said it was rebuilt 70k miles ago, he has no proof there for I call b.s and started rebuilding the block, head work is going to be done maybe late this year. For now my focus is on the block, I never done block work myself this my first and I hope I do it right.

                Now this transmission problem pops up and I'm stuck, I do not want to build a motor and then have my transmission to take a dump on me soon. I have never rebuild one myself either in fact I have never took one apart , just remove and install the transmissions in our cb7 maybe a few clutch work too.

                Looks of it here I have a delay in my turbo build motor and u got to start working on the tranny issue now. I would buy a newish one but its pointless if I'm going to turbo my F22 AND its just risking it to be another bad tranny or soon to be. I don't remember but I believe EVIL demon has gone through 4 trannys now since he went boosted.

                Better yet I already that there's no chance in hell that fluid will fix my problem in fact that's the same as a member here having rod knock and you recommend thicker oil ??


                Originally posted by deevergote
                .......If they seem smart, and just trying to learn, I'll offer as much help as possible. If they seem stupid and lazy, I'll do my best to piss them off so they leave and never come back... while still answering the question.

                Comment


                  #9
                  you're going to want a good tranny. Look into Synchrotech for some carbon synchros...I believe there were some for sale in the classifieds.

                  SOLD!!
                  Boosted H22
                  375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi

                  MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    If the gears are grinding, they are damaged as well. If the time and money is going to be spent rebuilding, new gears would be a wise choice as well. the parts are actually fairly inexpensive, but the labor is intensive. It's not cheap to have a fully rebuilt transmission done for you. If you can do it yourself, it'd be a few hundred dollars. Easily over $1000 to have it done. I believe 6 years ago or so, h22sparkle had gear-speed rebuild his transmission for about $1200.
                    The labor intensive part is getting the transmission in and out of the car. A few parts are in the way, but nothing major. Dropping takes a bit to free the transmission and make sure it's not binding on anything. Installing the transmission is loads easier with a lift; I had my roommate push from underneath while I pulled up on top with a rope and installed a few bolts.

                    Anyway, to the reason I'm posting. A while back I had to rebuild my transmission due to the fifth gear locking up. The needle bearing blew up, causing it to seize to the shaft. Here are a few pictures:


                    All I replaced was the 4th/5th ratio collar and the 5th ratio needle bearing. I kept the same 5th ratio gear. I'm worried that I should have replaced the gear. I'm also having issues with the 3rd ratio and 5th ratio synchronizers when shifting at decent RPM (4k+).

                    What all is included in this "fully rebuilt transmission for a couple hundred dollars"? Is it just new bearings, seals, and synchros? Or does that include new gears as well? Do you think I should have replaced the 5th gear?
                    Last edited by reklipz; 06-25-2012, 08:21 AM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by reklipz View Post
                      What all is included in this "fully rebuilt transmission for a couple hundred dollars"? Is it just new bearings, seals, and synchros? Or does that include new gears as well? Do you think I should have replaced the 5th gear?
                      Deevergote, any chance you've got a moment to reply to this one?

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