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Best affordable struts

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    #31
    Originally posted by Corweena View Post
    Pull out old struts, remove and replace UCA, then replace new strut.


    As far as anything else, it would be worth it to replace your lower ball joints on the knuckles as those are prone to fail more than anything else.
    Ok going to order some lower ball joints too.
    So steps go as these 1. remove strut 2. remove uca 3. install uca 4. install strut.
    Where do the removal and installation of lower ball joints fall into this. Am assuming i need 1 for each front side. moog part # k9643 is the right part?
    Last edited by zedjr10; 03-02-2017, 12:08 PM.

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      #32
      Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
      Ok going to order some lower ball joints too.
      So steps go as these 1. remove strut 2. remove uca 3. install uca 4. install strut.
      Where do the removal and installation of lower ball joints fall into this. Am assuming i need 1 for each front side. moog part # k9643 is the right part?
      Depending on when was the last time you did a brake job on your car I would consider that too since the spindle is gonna be off to change the lower ball joint. On my wife's accord I replaced truts, ball joints, bearings, CV joints(as folks call them) upgraded to wagon calipers and of course new rotors and pads had to go in there. This will also be the time to inspect the end links and radius rod bushings too.
      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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        #33
        Originally posted by Crankshaft View Post
        Depending on when was the last time you did a brake job on your car I would consider that too since the spindle is gonna be off to change the lower ball joint. On my wife's accord I replaced truts, ball joints, bearings, CV joints(as folks call them) upgraded to wagon calipers and of course new rotors and pads had to go in there. This will also be the time to inspect the end links and radius rod bushings too.
        Your scaring me now.Haha,, that's too much for this old man at one time. CV joint on one side is pretty new and wheel hub on other side was just replaced(even though it didn't need it). That's a good ideal on brake pads and rotors. Since that is relatively easy.

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          #34
          Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
          Your scaring me now.Haha,, that's too much for this old man at one time. CV joint on one side is pretty new and wheel hub on other side was just replaced(even though it didn't need it). That's a good ideal on brake pads and rotors. Since that is relatively easy.
          Believe it or not its not that much work then what you are already going to do, i believe to replace the balljoint you are already goint to have to slide the hub bearing off the spindle, so a brake rotor swap its half way there and caliper upgrade is just removing one xtra bolt which is the banjo bolt. I learned my lesson once when i did brakes and didnt change the bearings while everything was out, a couple months later i had to go back and do the work again. For the next brake service i plan to do a ROH conversion to make it easier for future brake service. Good luck to you though, just keep calm and you will get it done
          [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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            #35
            hey

            i have a used set of d2 coil overs if your interested full set. im thinking $350
            a person who looks at somthing and see it as waste is no person at all but he who see what it could be will suceed
            out with the old and in with the new

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              #36
              Please do not offer items for sale in this section. Normally, it would get you banned.
              Plus, D2 is total garbage brand new.






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                #37
                Are Blackworks Racing springs good?

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                  #38
                  I installed the kyb strut-plus and they installed very easily and ride is better. kyb strut-plus seems like a good option for anyone not wanting to mess with the coil.

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                    #39
                    Now that I'm aware that they exist, I'll likely recommend them to others. Most of the complete assemblies, as mentioned, are from low quality brands. KYB was a wise choice, as they're a very high quality company. Glad it worked out well for you!






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                      #40
                      Originally posted by SergioCb7661 View Post
                      Are Blackworks Racing springs good?
                      Absolutely not. They are another low-quality knockoff company. Do not trust your life to anything of questionable origin. Stick to components made by companies that specialize in the design and manufacturing of suspension components. Your life rides on your suspension.






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                        #41
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        Absolutely not. They are another low-quality knockoff company. Do not trust your life to anything of questionable origin. Stick to components made by companies that specialize in the design and manufacturing of suspension components. Your life rides on your suspension.
                        I agree. Now it is time for me to do the rear ones. KYB strut-plus is what i will be using again. i have read some people have just had problems with getting wrong sides but overall reviews for kyb strut-plus seems strong. All other companies seem to suck at making a quick strut(gabriel,monroe,etc).

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                          #42
                          As long as your car is in good shape, you should find that the rears are easier to do than the front. You got the worst out of the way already!






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                            #43
                            The biggest problem with the rear is that the bolt at the bottom many times is rusted into the sleeve in the bushing in the knuckle. The last two sets of rear shocks I've done have required replacement of those bushings and they are a pain in the neck to replace; I may have had to cut the bolt/bushing sleeve to get them apart. Start a couple days ahead of time spraying this with some kind of penetrating lubricant; then check to see if the bolt will even rotate. If not, find a set of bushings and new bolts before tearing into it.
                            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                              The biggest problem with the rear is that the bolt at the bottom many times is rusted into the sleeve in the bushing in the knuckle. The last two sets of rear shocks I've done have required replacement of those bushings and they are a pain in the neck to replace; I may have had to cut the bolt/bushing sleeve to get them apart. Start a couple days ahead of time spraying this with some kind of penetrating lubricant; then check to see if the bolt will even rotate. If not, find a set of bushings and new bolts before tearing into it.
                              I am glad u said something as i was just prepared to rip it apart and start putting in the new struts. I am willing to bet they need to be replaced as previous owner never did anything and he had the car a long time. The front struts looked like factory installed. I haven't looked at the rears in detail yet as it is raining here but the coils have seemed to collapsed partly. Would the knuckle bushing be considered the rear lower inner? Do u know the technical name of the bolt?

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                                #45
                                Just because it irks me: CB7s have shocks, not struts.
                                If fleetw00d doesn't get back with the proper part before I get back to my computer, I'll be able to find it for you.

                                Hondaautomotiveparts.com is a good place to look up parts (and often a good place to buy.) diagrams, part names, factory part numbers, and info on whether or not the part is discontinued.






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