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Fuel Pump Issue?

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    Fuel Pump Issue?

    Heyy all, so today i started up the coupe without any issues. Moved her to the street on a slight incline downhill. I went to start her a few hours later and still no issue. A few minutes later i had to turn her off since i had to use the house key and when i went back to start her, she wouldn't. I figured i needed fuel as the gauge was low (but no fuel light and yes it works), so i was going to see if there was any in the shed. She ended up turning over a minute later without adding fuel and was on my way to the station when she died on me on a slight uphill. Got her rolled back onto a level surface and added 2 gallons and still nothing. I was able to get her pushed to a downhill where it took a few clutch kicks to get her going and when she did, ran and idled great. Got her to the fuel station to add more fuel, but she wouldnt start. A few hours later she started up, but upon turning off, same thing again. Does this sound more like a fuel pump not holding pressure or...? Thanks for the feedback.

    #2
    I'm no expert on the subject but it does seem like the fuel pump could be suspect. It would be easy to verify - just check for consistent fuel pressure on the rail when it's having one of it's "no start" episodes. Also, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

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      #3
      Check the main relay it could be going out on you. When it begins to fail, when hot it won't allow the car to start. After it cools for awhile it will allow you start the car again.
      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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        #4
        Thanks for the responses.

        To my understanding, there was work done 10k or so miles ago, which included timing components and such. I was beginning to suspect the main relay as well when she started up for me, high idle as usual, warmed up, calmed down to 800 RPM then i took off and she was idling at 300 RPM. Got her a few blocks down the road and she died. I had the momentum to get to a hill and tried to kick the clutch. She caught, but wouldnt rev, ran for a few seconds downhill and died. (She was level when she died initially today). Im leaning towards the fuel pump as my theory is it slowly builds pressure and by me going down the street, the pump only had so much in her before giving out. Does this sound right?

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          #5
          I'd bet it is the main relay. And, it is much easier to check and replace than the fuel pump. Before diving into that (IE. draining all fuel, dropping the tank and reinstalling), remove and check the main relay. Find someone near you with a working CB7 and borrow their main relay. If it fixes your car, get a new one. If not, then it looks like it wasn't the issue. Or, if you know how to solder, look into resoldering the main relay. This fixed my starting issue when I was dealing with it.

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            #6
            I thought pump access was in the trunk? I see it when i lift the carpet. I have a spare CB, so I'll pull it tomorrow morning as i work in an hour.

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              #7
              Nope. No access through the trunk unless you cut a hole. The cover on the passenger side of the trunk is not for the fuel pump.

              Just google "CB7 Fuel Pump" and look at the images. You will see that some cb7tuners have cut a hole to access the fuel pump. Otherwise, you have to drop the tank.

              Still. Don't worry about the fuel pump. Check the main relay first.

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                #8
                Also, my Chilton manual says that its in fuel tank, but shows directions that point to the cover in trunk, so thats why i got confused. I'll check main relay tomorrow

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                  #9
                  The cover in the trunk is for the sending unit. There is no access to the fuel pump.

                  check this video

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                    #10
                    Ok, as far as the main relay, i cant find anything on it in my Chilton. I do know that its near the ECU
                    Last edited by CB7_Saloon; 11-03-2017, 06:36 PM.

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                      #11
                      It is not. The ECU is on the passenger foot-well. The Main Relay is on the driverside in front of the door and under the dash.

                      main relay location and replacement

                      If she can do it, so can you.


                      ***NOTE**** as you can see from looking around the forum, a lot of DIYs are broken due to the recent Photobucket issues. However, youtube is full of informative videos and DIYs. It would definitely help to search things like "cb7 main relay" and watch some videos. Or "cb7 (anything you want)" and you should be able to find something helpful.
                      Last edited by oni_cb7; 11-03-2017, 06:48 PM.

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                        #12
                        if it is caused by a fuel shortage, check the main relay, like others have suggested.

                        it also sounds like it might be the Igniter module inside the distributor, they have a tendency to go bad in such a way that they stop working once the engine is fully warmed up. If you let the car sit for a while and cool down, does it start working again?


                        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                        Current cars:
                        - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                        - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by cp[mike] View Post
                          if it is caused by a fuel shortage, check the main relay, like others have suggested.

                          it also sounds like it might be the Igniter module inside the distributor, they have a tendency to go bad in such a way that they stop working once the engine is fully warmed up. If you let the car sit for a while and cool down, does it start working again?
                          Yes

                          Also, would a main relay fail as the car is running?

                          Also, if i have to replace the ignitor inside the dizzy, i would have to reset the timing? I know you don't on OBD 2.

                          I saw the video, thank you. She mentioned Jap vs US made Accords. I assume they are the same either way unless 90/91 are different from 92/93. Thanks for your responses.
                          Last edited by CB7_Saloon; 11-03-2017, 10:40 PM.

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                            #14
                            Update: i couldnt pull the main relay from my sedan due to time, but i did, however, get the one from the coupe. DX ftw since no CC box to deal with 😂😉 It looks fine, cant find any cracks in it. Only thing is the stains on it, which i assume is glue as it appears on another MR from anither member here.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Bump

                              I should note that theres no CEL being thrown to the best of my knowledge.

                              Also, i looked it up and it appears that 94/95 CD5s have the same part number for the ICM for the non-VTEC models only (according to FailZone). Can anyone confirm that its the same ICM for between 92 and 95? Thanks

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