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DCB7 : 1993 Accord LX
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Too be honest with you, I love the video!
Bought from:AbsurdNY,92smokeaccord,cb7inct,nevi325,xkjnboix,cb 7resurrector,JoshM
MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203451
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New Starter
Been banging the old one for about a week, then it was down for a few days.
This is what the new starters from Autozone look like. It came with a notice about the new appearance and assurance its above factory specs.
Lifetime warranty, don't think autozone is going out of business anytime soon
Electrical connection on top instead of the side. Had to really pull and bend the harness to make it get there
Its also bigger than the old one
The trademark accord startup sound is also gone
A lot quieter though, can hardly hear it
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I went through 3 ignitors in a month. I swapped the one from the OEM distributor into the newer one, that went bad. I got another used ignitor, that went bad in a few weeks as well. So I got another used ignitor, put that in the original dist. and it shows no sign of going bad, though I'm leaking oil from the distributor seal again.
Then the battery started going dead over night, I had to jump it in the mornings. When the guy you're trying to buy a new battery from tells you don't need it, then you know your battery is good. After a lot of troubleshooting, I narrowed it down to my audio system drawing on the battery while it was off. 12v draw to be exact. It just started doing this out of the blue as I touched nothing in that area. I rewired the amplifier and it still drained the battery down. So I disconnected the amp altogether and the drain down went away for a couple days, till I played the radio again (without the bass, no choice) next morning the battery was dead again. So I unplugged the radio harness yesterday and it cranked right up this morning. I don't know if I need to just reground the radio itself and get a new amp, but I'm going to try. I also sanded and cleaned the battery connections and put some left over bulb grease around them as there were signs of corrosion and rust.
My new camberkit bushings went bad again, rattling from front wheels, and it pulls one way or the other when braking and accelerating. I'm considering going with no camberkit and poly bushings in the OEM anchor bolts before my alignment warranty runs out, but the guy at the shop says he doesn't recommend it. There are threads on this forum (camberkit myth) and others that the kits aren't necessary once the toe is perfect. I'm going to try it because its probably eating the tires up anyway with the wheels going back and forth because of the bad bushings, and the drop with the Stechs is mild.
I haven't had time but soon as I'm going to paint the wheels and do minor body work in preparation for paint.
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How is that starter holding up?My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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I passed up a sweet deal on a 1999 325i, manual, with baby blue-grey leather interior, with only 113l miles. That's CB7 love right there. I just couldn't leave so many things half done on it, plus I still love this car, looks+driving feel.
Plus who needs BMW repair and maintenance costs anyway. I might be painting the CB soon.
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Originally posted by khal.lawson View PostOne of my favorites, very clean and thorough. Did you notice any change in MPG's with the filter fitted to the oem intake?
I couldn't say for sure with the MPGs. It's always been in the low 20s when i'm driving hard, and high twenties with regular driving, maybe even 30 on the highway, before and after. I don't have an exact number.
One thing I did notice with the filter and the header, before, my speedo would hit 50 at the exact same time my rev counter would hit 3k in third gear. Now when the tach hits 3k, Im only doing about 45mph. So I would say I have to rev it a little more to achieve the same speed. Not sure if that makes me burn more gas or not. I just change at 45 instead of 50.
I'm planning on getting an aluminum tube when I change the intake manifold though
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Brake fluid leak
The BRAKE light on the dash kept coming on. Thought something was wrong with my e-brake but it was working fine...then my brakes started getting spongy...checked the brake fluid and it was almost dry
Took the wheel off for a closer look
seemed to be coming from the caliper. I had all the pieces for the Acura Cl brake upgrade, so there was no better time, actually I had no choice
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CL brakes install
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=3239903
I don't know if its because my old brakes were so bad, but, after the proper bleeding and all that, the braking is much improved + the pedal feels more responsive
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