DCB7 : 1993 Accord LX

[DCB7]

What would happen if you pump the brakes with the caliper disconnected from the rotor:


That piston is coming out. Though my boot was already ripped.

Performance was good for a few days, till at lights I noticed my brake pedal going down, down down (like when bleeding brakes) Checked the reservoir, and it was low. Checked the wheel and brake fluid streams could be seen across the rims/tires. I tried to get it off right away, but the rim is tarnished.

Turned out it was the brake line. I missed this bubble


re-bled, and now the pedal is stiff again. almost right at the top.
I put the CL brake line on on that side, for some reason the banjo connection wouldn't go back into the caliper groove, so I changed the angle, skipped a bracket and used zip ties.

I want to get stainless brake lines eventually.
It was my cleanest rim


Caught the brake fever, and started spending money I shouldn't



After this I'll chill

[DCB7]

camber kit removed

When I did the brakes I changed one control arm and took the camberkits out. (Good riddance, the damn rattling)



Apart from a slight pull to one side ride was great with the new bushings. After a week, the inside of my tires are eaten down, like royally fucked up. They used the camberkits to adjust toe instead of just camber, though they said they didn't. So I have it sitting mostly til I do the rear disc conversion to do an alignment. Saving the little tread left to switch them to the back, put the new ones in the front.

I have adjustable ball joints (up to _1 deg.) Im going to fit into the OEM arms. With the camber kit they had to drop me to -1degrees anyway to avoid too much banging, so when I raised it I actually had slight positive camber. im thinking no camberkit with the slight drop would bring me to the middle (about -1 degrees) which is optimal for me. If not, just switch in the adjustable.

The rears have almost no excessive inner wear with more than -1. So I'll try it.
I want to get new tires in a couple months. The NExens served me well, but they discontinued the ones I like, and the new (good) ones have gone up in price to the level of Yokohama and Hankook, so Ill try one like that.



Due for a thorough cleaning. been neglecting it

[DCB7]

Rotors, Ceramic pads and new clips came in

[DCB7]

I got the rear disc conversion done....did it by myself...it took me a while

Ebrake lines = SOB

Grabs good, can't say how much better than the drums they are, definitely look better, but the fronts made the difference.

Took a few pics...I'll post another time (waiting on a fan for my laptop)

All in all :

[DCB7]

LED Cluster lights



Modification list on first page updated

[DCB7]

Rear disc conversion

Current:




removed old rotors and tried to clean up a little


these were rustier than my original knuckles


cleaned off calipers with a wire brush


and dusted them with some silver caliper paint


borrowed this from autozone

tool use was self explanatory


just made sure studs were right size for the grooves

compressed piston


rotor kit came with new spring clips. removed old ones and sanded out the rust


installed new clips with grease between



got access to a impact screwdriver, so screws weren't damaged. re'used to tighten down new rotor



new clips fit good


don't hate me....



other side


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[DCB7]

Rear disc conversion

Process:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10495
reading through this thread answered most of my questions.

Got to work (wtf is going on with my muffler)

Couldn't get high enough with this jack point, so used the crossmember instead

Removal:
Disconnected ebrake lines from the inside


started removing ebrake lines and heat shield

look at the welding job on my resonator



I didn't unbolt my exhaust because one bolt was really stuck, just removed it from the hanger

that probly made it harder than it needed to be, some of the bolts were hard to get to (major PITA)

after some woo-sah, I finally yanked them out.




I didn't get the trailing arm with the 'new' knuckle, so unbolted the trailing arm



removed lower strut bolt and the one going through the control arms/knuckle


to get the ebrake line out you have to remove (wrestle) all the brackets from it, to get it through this hole right here

then I undid the upper control arm nut, banged it, and it dropped out

re-install:
This is where you need a friend. My little son helped me best as he could. I lifted the knuckle into place and he screwed the nuts on enough to hold it.


Got the long bolt through the knuckle and control arms

(don't get the control arms trapped up between brake lines and such) gave me some head scratching.


This one gave me a hard time again. Jack, big screwdriver, rubber mallet : done





The other side I did different, since the first was a fight.


dropped the whole trailing arm and switched over on the ground
old one off


new rusty one on






to re-install, I held it in place and my son put the lower strut bolt in first this time. Of course, the trailing arm gave me a hard time. extra jack: done.

edit: reconnected ebrake line brackets, and on the inside. Realize now I adjusted it too tight, got to go in and loosen it a little

[DCB7]

Rear disc conversion

Complete:









rotated the tires


Driver's side

[F22Chris]

Safety!

Did you fix the camber?

[DCB7]

Nah Chris, I didn't fix the camber. I took them [camberkits] out.

I'm going to post my alignment specs, and post updates on how the tires and handling hold up after some miles are put on it

[XCRN]

Nice. Was the setup from a CB or CD?

[DCB7]

It was from a 93 EX. They tried to charge $70 for the crossmember alone, so i didn't get the sway bar.

[DCB7]

Alignment specs

2.5"- 3" drop with anchor bolt camber kit













about 2" drop without camber kit

[DCB7]

Block off plates

[DCB7]

I still want to clean this up and use it










this too






Some yellowing, but current valve cover is holding up to the heat