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    #16
    Well I've been working on solving the last issues to make it a running and driving car. The fans would not come on so I searched the site for this problem and found lots of help and I traced it down to a bad fan switch. It would not Ohm test at all, I had one from a salvage and it tested good and installed it. I just finished putting the cooling system back together calling it a night.
    Thank you to all who helped out and made me stop and think.

    Tomorrow.... IT WILL RUN ( pictures of what it looks like now )


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      #17
      oooo i'm jelly of that clean motor

      H22A Vigor
      SR20 Accord

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        #18
        She looks fantastic dude! I do have a couple questions though:

        1. What did you end up doing with the power steering hose?

        2. Which crank pulley did you end up using, accord or prelude?

        3. What do you feel was the most difficult part of all this?

        Thanks and congratulations!

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          #19
          I tried to do the best I could to make it look stock and everything still work like it should, and cleaned things along the way as I went. To answer your questions s2cmpugh:

          #1-I went to the salvage and found a Prelude a 1994 I think, It was the 92-96 body style it had a F22 in it. I pulled the high pressure line and the little stand bracket it had for the hose on the crossmember. I had to gently tweak it to bolt it back up to my rack.

          #2-I used my Accord Pulley since I was keeping the A\C and had to use the Accord compressor I also used the Prelude alternator. I know it has a 6 groove pulley on it, I used it because it was much cleaner than my Accord alternator. I just installed the belt on the pulley closest to the alternator with the extra groove on the outer edge, done this on other vehicles and it worked....if not I have the Accord alternator.

          #3-This is my very first swap on an import, a real learning experience for me. When I was swapping things in the 70's and 80's you did not have all these damn sensors and electric fans or oxygen sensors. This site is A LOT OF HELP and I'm still learning and all you got to do is look It's on here.

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            #20
            I personally think you did an excellent job making it look stock!

            1. Did you have to tweak that line a lot or just a little to fit?

            2. Thanks for the clarification on the pulleys. I've seen all different combos on here, but yours seems to be the simplest. Did you think about swapping the pulleys for the alternator and PS pump or were they too difficult?

            Have you taken her out yet to see how she feels and runs?

            Cris

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              #21
              Thank you, It's a driver not a race car so I wanted it to look right and as soon as I can I will put new studs in the factory exhaust manifold.I intend to put it and the factory down pipe on and install the heat shield when I get the exhaust done and can afford a good exhaust system.

              #1- just a little tweaking just don't get in a hurry, you do not want to kink it. The hardest was just getting it around the cross-member to bolt it to the rack. Since the motor was out I was able to rotate the line and work it in to place so I could bolt it in place, a little tweaking was required there as well.

              #2-No I never considered swapping pulley on the alternator I would just have swapped the Accord alternator on to get it to run if there was a problem there still might be I just do not know. I don't believe there will be a problem but I don't have any road time on the vehicle at this time but I hope to real soon. As for the power steering, both of the power steering pumps the F22 and the H22 have a 4 groove pulley on them so the only issue was getting the correct belt length.

              No I have not driven it yet BUT It Is running I burped the air out AND my fans came on like they should got that fixed. It runs, it revs up well, and the temp looks good. All is almost well I noticed it was steaming from out of my fans. I nicked the radiator when I installed the fans and now IT'S LEAKING Just got to fix that and put the wheels on and reattach the column to the rack, I also put a new rack in while doing this swap, It's coming together now.

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                #22
                Do you mind explaining what you currently did to get the exhaust system bolted and sealed up and what you PLAN to do?

                Doesn't sound too hard on the PS line then, just work with it a bit and don't kink.

                How did you measure your belts and what size or part number did you end up using?

                Sounds like she's good to go! Any more smoke coming out the back or did all the oil put in by HMO burn off?

                When I do my swap, I plan on making it look just like it was meant to sit in there.

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                  #23
                  I got the down pipe from HMO but it is too short so I next followed the FAQ swap section and got a EBAY header
                  Exhaust:
                  For the H22A the USDM 93-96 Vtec manifold will bolt right up to the CB7 Exhaust. However the JDM H22A down pipe seems to have larger flange that will not bolt up to the CB7 cat. You can either cut and weld a new flange or the easiest route would be just purchase an aftermarket header for the 93-96 Vtec Prelude. Redrilling three new holes in the larger JDM downpipe flange will also make it so it fits.
                  It was still about 1 inch short so I pulled the rubber exhaust hangers on the exhaust pipe from the cat to the back of the car towards the front of the car. I also pulled the pipe forward because everything was just about centered on the hangers, I found the inch I needed to close the gap I then had to re-drill the three holes that bolted up to the cat larger. I had installed the header already. I bolted the cat up to the down pipe, tried to attach the down pipe to the header and It almost went on, I pulled a little and it went right on. When I bolted it together I used anti-seize. I want to take it off later to replace this set up or maybe to change the manifold gasket, anti-seize will make the job simple.
                  Exhaust in the future will be the factory exhaust manifold and down pipe with a 2 1/4 cat, 2 1/4 mandrel tubing, and 2 1/4 resonator(s) and muffler. I want it to be quiet.

                  For the belts I fit my Accord belts on and took note on how short they were, then I read the numbers and got what I needed. I use Gates belts
                  K050435 is stock on F22 for A/C alternator.
                  K040420 is stock on F22 for power steering.
                  The "K" I think stands for the micro-groove line of belts, but I do know the second digit is how many grooves are on the belt (4,5, or 6) The last three are the length of the belt.
                  The Accord A/C Alt belt was only about 1/2 inch too short. The PS belt was over an inch too long , the belts I found and installed are listed below
                  K050440 for A/C and alternator. this belt is 44 inches.
                  K040405 for power steering. This belt is 40 1/2 inches.
                  This is on my H22 using the Accord crank pulley, the Accord A/C compressor and pulley BUT using the Prelude alternator so far so good.

                  Yeah It's still smoking some but NOTHING the way it was on start-up It's burning off just like he said. I need to purge the air out of the cooling system and put the hood on AND GO FOR A DRIVE and put some miles on.

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                    #24
                    Well I got it finished up and out on the road but have three problems, you can tell driving, it needs a front end alignment nothing major but It's drivable.

                    I have a noise under hard acceleration that sounds like It's coming from the transmission on the passenger side. I got under and looked the axle is not flush with the transmission seal It's at least 1/8 from being against the seal. Sort of a grinding sound.

                    The last is a high pitched whining whistle under acceleration, the harder you accelerate the louder it gets. I put a 16 miles on it

                    I'm first going to fix the axle problem and get an alignment, It doesn't whine at an idle.....I don't know calling it a day, Be Well.

                    Everything in small steps.

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                      #25
                      Sounds like you've got most of the bugs worked out! The axle should be an easy fix, just bang it in a bit more assuming the c-clip isn't bent.

                      That high pitched whining/whistle could be a small gap or hole in the exhaust somewhere or maybe another air leak of some kind.

                      Any CEL's? Did you run it thru VTEC?

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                        #26
                        Yeah I'm almost there, I tried banging the axle in but it wouldn't go. I'm going to call the local dealer this morning about getting a new set ring that's what Majestic honda calls it. I would bet It's bent and that is an easy fix because it did not make the noise when I drove it before. The front end alignment is a given after replacing the rack. So really the whining/whistle is the real problem.
                        No I didn't push it into VTEC just wanted to break it in kinda easy, to get things worked out before pushing it harder. I haven't checked to see if any codes were showing yet but, I pulled the plug out so I can jump it to pull the codes I might need to drive it a little longer.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Old Dog 61 View Post
                          Yeah I'm almost there, I tried banging the axle in but it wouldn't go. I'm going to call the local dealer this morning about getting a new set ring that's what Majestic honda calls it. I would bet It's bent and that is an easy fix because it did not make the noise when I drove it before. The front end alignment is a given after replacing the rack. So really the whining/whistle is the real problem.
                          No I didn't push it into VTEC just wanted to break it in kinda easy, to get things worked out before pushing it harder. I haven't checked to see if any codes were showing yet but, I pulled the plug out so I can jump it to pull the codes I might need to drive it a little longer.
                          How's she running? Any luck on finding that whistling noise?

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                            #28
                            Just finished my swap yesterday! Put 90 miles on her already! I'm having the same whistling sound though?? Can't figure it.

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                              #29
                              It's still running good and still has the whistling sound, haven't had much time because of family responsibility's work and home. I am hoping tomorrow.

                              I removed the passenger axle and installed a new set ring, the axle locks in but is still out from the seal but it is locking in. Now you would think a dealer would stock this little part. It is as common as a cotter pin but, It was a special order part go figure.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by Old Dog 61 View Post
                                It's still running good and still has the whistling sound, haven't had much time because of family responsibility's work and home. I am hoping tomorrow.

                                I removed the passenger axle and installed a new set ring, the axle locks in but is still out from the seal but it is locking in. Now you would think a dealer would stock this little part. It is as common as a cotter pin but, It was a special order part go figure.
                                I wonder why the axle is sticking out like that? I agree the dealer should keep those set rings in stock. What happens if a technician bends one on a new axle? Do they junk the entire axle and use a new one? I doubt it.

                                Anyway, could you make a youtube video so we could hear the sound?

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