Stage 3 Clutch: NEED SUGGESTIONS!

[TypeS-Musician]

Hello. As i was swapping out my OEM clutch and flywheel with a stage 2, my brothers' preludes clutch went bad, so we put the stage 2 in that one since my car is on jacks and currently not running. Now, ive driven with a stage 2 for a long time and the pedal wasnt really heavyer to push compared to the OEM clutch. So my question is, if i go to a stage 3 clutch and flywheel is it gonna be bothersome if you drive normally? I know it wont bother me, but sometimes my mom or girl will take my car if they needed to, and i dont want them to have a hard time driving it because of that.

Any suggestion will help, Thanks

[kapone]

Why do you feel the need for a stage 3...? A clutch adds no more power or makes the car handle any better than an OEM. Unless you need a stage 3 (car running over 300HP if i'm correct) why put one in there...?

I have driven cars with stage 3 clutches, and personally it sucked. My leg was killing me from pushing the clutch in. Those vehicle actually had the HP to warrant the stage 3 clutches.

If your mom and girl are going to be driving it, I doubt it has over 300 hp...

my apologies if i'm wrong...

[MortsAccord]

Hydraulic clutch. They don't give a care what stage you put in there, the pedal is virtually unchanged.

Buy a cheap oem clutch.

[TypeS-Musician]

I'm going to be running about 250+ on HP naturally aspirated. I did more reading and stage 3 is indeed uneccesary. I think stage 2 clutch and flywheel is my best bet because ill get the lighter flywheel I want, and I won't have to worry about the clutch slipping. Thanks for the input guys

[Jarrett]

Please do explain this 250+hp N/A setup.

[MortsAccord]

I'm going to be running about 250+ on HP naturally aspirated. I did more reading and stage 3 is indeed uneccesary. I think stage 2 clutch and flywheel is my best bet because ill get the lighter flywheel I want, and I won't have to worry about the clutch slipping. Thanks for the input guys

BS. I say.

I would also love to hear about it. Cause that much N/a power isnt cheap. Also if you had the bank for that type of 2.2l build you wouldn't be in here asking people.

[evil_demon_01]

BS. I say.

He didn't even state what engine he was going to be using, or what car for that matter . . .

[TypeS-Musician]

A Instead of getting a new car, I asked for a new motor. I got the H22A Type S engine (Only made in Japan) and tranny. It came with everything, it was a plug and play for $3000 on my 93 accord ex. The Type S has 217 HP stock, my mods are: Intake, Full exhaust system, twin-loop muffler, ignition system, and fuel system. So I crunched the numbers and that's my guess. Big deal if a little off. Parts are not THAT expensive, and me and my dad do all the work ourselves so we aren't paying mechanics for their labor. I was just asking a simple question if a stage 3 clutch would be better, because I had a stage 2 before.

[TypeS-Musician]

A Instead of getting a new car, I asked for a new motor. I got the H22A Type S engine (Only made in Japan) and tranny. It came with everything, it was a plug and play for $3000 on my 93 accord ex. The Type S has 217 HP stock, my mods are: Intake, Full exhaust system, twin-loop muffler, ignition system, and fuel system. So I crunched the numbers and that's my guess. Big deal if a little off. Parts are not THAT expensive, and me and my dad do all the work ourselves so we aren't paying mechanics for their labor. I was just asking a simple question if a stage 3 clutch would be better, because I had a stage 2 before.

And my accord was handed down to me by my dad. So whenever her F22A6 gave out after 300,000 miles, and my parents were gonna help me pay for a new car (new as in another used car), I asked for the engine instead. So I'm not loaded or anything

[deevergote]

You don't need a "Stage 3" anything.

MortsAccord summed it up perfectly above. You have a hydraulic clutch system. The pedal is not going to be stiffer.

I've said it before... a clutch is like a condom. Get the product that best matches your equipment. A quality "stage 3" clutch will be for a seriously modified engine. A stock H22 Type S will be fine with OEM, or a "stage 1" from most quality clutch manufacturers.

Get yourself a good Exedy or Daikin. You'll be fine.

[TypeS-Musician]

Alright thanks for advice. I won't be getting that then

[deevergote]

Clutches are usually rated at whp, and the Type S is likely to make no more than 180-185whp, if that. 250whp N/A will actually require some pretty extensive mods (and it would essentially be undoing everything that makes that more expensive Type S engine different from a regular H22A)

[TypeS-Musician]

HELL no I'm making 250 at the wheels. I'm MAYBE making 220 whp, I'm not sure. Like I said these are all guesses on my part. I could be talking out of my ass for all I know.

[deevergote]

217 at the crank, minus losses due to age and wear, minus 15-18% drivetrain loss... 180whp is more likely in stock form. Are you running a custom tuned ECU? If not, some serious wiring would have been needed to run the Type S's OBD2 ECU. An OBD1 P13 from a base model H22 is what you'd be using otherwise.

I seriously doubt you're even close to 200whp. 250whp would take new internals, head work, new cams, a custom intake manifold, a high quality header, and a good dyno tune. Doing all that to a Type S is a waste, honestly. Because, as I said, most of the parts that make the Type S different from any other H22 will be replaced with aftermarket bits that would do just as well in a cheaper H22 (as in, an H22 that costs about $800.)

[TypeS-Musician]

Yeah I'm doing the OBD1 converstion to avoid the wiring of hell. Other then what I already named, I won't be doing anything else to my Type S. Like you said, it would be changing the whole concept of it being a Type S. I guess I was completely off on my guesses for the whole HP or WHP, whatever you prefer. Once I get it all together and take it in for a dyno, ill be able to see what she can do. Thanks for all your input