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Engine block dropped off at the machine shop

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    #31
    Alright, here she is at home.



    Unwrapped partially.



    Cross-hatching seems to be done pretty well.



    This is the underside of the damaged cylinder prior to the overbore.



    Here's the underside of the damaged cylinder after bore.



    The outside of the block after the weld repair. It doesn't have to look pretty as it's just a tiny hole that was welded up. It's also going to be covered by the rear engine mount bracket. I would have preferred them to have cleaned it a little more first. I suppose I could have pressure washed it myself before taking it to him at least, though.



    Pretty pistons.



    Factory gas ports.



    Assembly pictures will come when I get new bearings. I have the factory bearings that I'll use to gauge what new sizes I'll need. No work was done to the F23A1 crankshaft other than cleaning and oiling it so bearings should be fairly close to standard sizes. I'll be going with OEM Honda, though, so I want the measurements to be perfect.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #32
      I wish had more understanding how this engine stuff works, sounds like you know what to do. Can't wait to see this build!

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        #33
        My deck heights at all 4 corners were 8.646", 8.648", 8.645" and 8.646" before resurfacing. Afterward they were 8.639", 8.642", 8.640" and 8.641". That works out to roughly a .006" reduction in deck height. With the 4.25cc PRB pistons that should make for an 11.73:1 CR before any head resurfacing. Since the F20B pistons come out of the bore .020" in a factory setup I'm okay taking a bit of material off the head as my setup should be fairly even with the deck.
        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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          #34
          I cleaned the rods up to get them ready also.








          I cleaned up the main bearings a bit so that I could install the crank and measure for clearances but I decided not to as the block still has shavings in it from being bored out. So, I'm going to take it home and power wash the whole thing, inside and out. The outside needs it anyway.
          Last edited by Jarrett; 09-30-2014, 04:26 PM.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            #35
            Now that there is sexy, I'm surprised they didn't clean it before giving it back to you.

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              #36
              Meh, seems average for machine work.


              Great shops give you stuff back spotless, but charge premium. I'd be a bit upset about no hot tank after bore personally.


              Pics don't look bad. Good starting point at least.


              to you.
              Originally posted by wed3k
              im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

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                #37
                maybe you could find a local bolt and screw place that could custom make you some bolts?

                Fastenal has a few companies in the Texas area you could try them?

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by 8ball View Post
                  maybe you could find a local bolt and screw place that could custom make you some bolts?

                  Fastenal has a few companies in the Texas area you could try them?
                  I've got new OEM bolts and the pistons I'm using are significantly lighter than the ones that these bolts were designed in conjunction with. I'm not going to be revving this very high so I'm content.


                  I power washed the block this weekend and got more stuff in the mail. I have some ACL Race bearings to use to take measurements from to get the correct clearances. If I'm able to achieve appropriate clearances with these I may just use them. Any bearings that need addressing I may just replace individually. We'll see.

                  Also, it seems PR CB7 was right about the girdle. Two of the bolts lined up perfectly but the others were somewhat off. I could have redrilled holes into the girdle to send a bolt through but I decided that it was no longer worth it.

                  I've got my lower seals, gaskets, oil pump and new hardware in. I forgot to grab one of my rear main seal covers at my parent's house but I'll survive. I'll also now need to take my girdle from my F22A to use on this build. Oddly enough, the F20B didn't come with an oil cooler so I'm integrating an OEM cooler in this as well.

                  I'll post pictures whenever I have a chance to get some assembly done.
                  My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by toycar View Post
                    Meh, seems average for machine work.


                    Great shops give you stuff back spotless, but charge premium. I'd be a bit upset about no hot tank after bore personally.


                    Pics don't look bad. Good starting point at least.


                    to you.
                    completely agree. my shop even has a tool to measure ra finishes on the hone as well.
                    I <3 G60.

                    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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