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    bumperworldonline.com review

    So I purchased a reconditioned front 92-93 bumper and it arrived this morning. I'll take some pictures and update asap. It comes primered and is ready for paint. Here's the website link https://www.bumperworldonline.com/about I purchased it off their eBay store though. It cost me 165$ plus 90$ shipping.

    #2
    Wow, $255 shipped for a like-new bumper? That's actually a hell of a deal! Looking forward to pics.






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      #3
      pictures...sorry theyre big. my phone crapped out and i couldnt resize them.

      came wrapped nicely. it went bumper, bubble wrap, big thick plastic bag, covered in packing cardboard and then stuffed inside old back bumper from unknown car, and taped up nice and tight so the good bumper doesnt shift around


      just left is plastic bag and bubble wrap also taped
      Last edited by kseriescivic; 12-17-2016, 09:55 PM.

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        #4
        and heres the bumper! and let me tell you this thing is brand new looking!!! not a broken tab anywhere the clips and screws go. Im very happy with it and would buy again anytime. it hada sticker with instructions to paint it but i forgot to snap a picture of it and was late for work. let me know what you guys think!
        Last edited by kseriescivic; 12-17-2016, 09:53 PM.

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          #5
          I've been able to get repaired OEM bumper covers from my local LKQ for about $125. The two I've purchased I haven't been able to tell where/if they'd been repaired.

          Bought refurbished OEM because their aftermarket CAPA certified didn't fit right.
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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            #6
            I was very close to buying a capa bumper but figured i have the cash so ill just do it right. this is off topic but im trying to buy a speed bleeder for my slave cylinder and have been unsucsessful twice...first one i bought was this and it said it fits but im assuming it means the brake bleeder screw https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
            then I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002O...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and its close but still too big. Can somebody show me the correct speed bleeder please. no part stores around me carry them. thanks

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
              I've been able to get repaired OEM bumper covers from my local LKQ for about $125. The two I've purchased I haven't been able to tell where/if they'd been repaired.

              Bought refurbished OEM because their aftermarket CAPA certified didn't fit right.
              I've done two CAPA bumpers for friends and neither have fit like OEM. At least, I think they were CAPA bumpers.

              I did CAPA fenders on my 93 Toyota Pickup and while not terrible, they didn't fit like OEM either. The CAPA bumper and valence shipped to me would not bolt on unless I cut things on their bumpers, so I ended up returning them.

              Used OEM >>>> new aftermarket, unless you are on a budget and don't care.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by kseriescivic View Post
                I was very close to buying a capa bumper but figured i have the cash so ill just do it right. this is off topic but im trying to buy a speed bleeder for my slave cylinder and have been unsucsessful twice...first one i bought was this and it said it fits but im assuming it means the brake bleeder screw https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
                then I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002O...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and its close but still too big. Can somebody show me the correct speed bleeder please. no part stores around me carry them. thanks
                Don't bother with a bleeder. Just get a length of hose (I used stuff for an aquarium), some small vise grips, a long pipe (the longer the better), and a friend to help you. Fill the system, pump, open the valve, let it drain for a short time. Close the valve, pump, repeat. When bubbles stop appearing and you have partial pressure, use the pipe to pry on the slave fork. For me, this was necessary to gain full pressure. I tried half a dozen different methods, including manual and pneumatic bleeders... this is the only method that worked.






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                  #9
                  Got the clutch bled. It was freezing outside so there may be a tad bit of air In the line but it works. I'm going to change the trans fluid to 10w30 amsoil signature series to see if that helps with the rough shift to 1st gear. Also plan to swap out the shifter cable and base bushing to hybridracing ones or some other high quality cable bushing.

                  It's weird though, not every shift from neutral to first is rough. Sometimes it's like butter and sometimes I have to ease it in. Also, when I was bleeding the clutch the slave cylinder would creak everytime I broke it loose. Overall I'm not happy with my tranny, it just feels meh compared to my 8th and 9th gens. Tips to help fix that would be nice because I really do like my accord...just the transmission could shift better.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It might be an issue with the transmission itself. 1st gear doesn't have a synchronizer like the other gears, so there shouldn't be a problem with that. Could be something bent inside.

                    The only real issue with these transmissions (that can't be fixed with good fluid and new bushings) is the synchro wear. They're old, so the synchronizers wear out, causing grinds. Find a good one, or use a properly rebuilt one, and there should be no problem with them whatsoever. I currently have a 90 Miata with 65,000 miles on it, and a 2006 CTS-V. I preferred the transmission in my CB7 greatly over either of those. The only other transmission that even came close was the one on my 09 Fit (which I put 400,000 miles on... so I know that gearing better than any other!)






                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                      It might be an issue with the transmission itself. 1st gear doesn't have a synchronizer like the other gears, so there shouldn't be a problem with that. Could be something bent inside.

                      The only real issue with these transmissions (that can't be fixed with good fluid and new bushings) is the synchro wear. They're old, so the synchronizers wear out, causing grinds. Find a good one, or use a properly rebuilt one, and there should be no problem with them whatsoever. I currently have a 90 Miata with 65,000 miles on it, and a 2006 CTS-V. I preferred the transmission in my CB7 greatly over either of those. The only other transmission that even came close was the one on my 09 Fit (which I put 400,000 miles on... so I know that gearing better than any other!)
                      I thought that too. I'll bleed it again tomorrow and see if it's better. I found a synchrotech rebuilt trans for 699$ plus 100$ shipping. I'm sure I could get some discount for sending them my old one. The synchrotech rebuild kit is like 500 so I'll do some research and look in to doing it myself. Depends on if I get money for my old one. The side to side shifter play needs improving also. I was looking at buying a fit! 5,000$ for a 1 owner with around 120k miles. I like older hondas though...

                      Here's the synchrotech transmission http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Accord...FWFtfL&vxp=mtr

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        It might be an issue with the transmission itself. 1st gear doesn't have a synchronizer like the other gears, so there shouldn't be a problem with that. Could be something bent inside.

                        The only real issue with these transmissions (that can't be fixed with good fluid and new bushings) is the synchro wear. They're old, so the synchronizers wear out, causing grinds. Find a good one, or use a properly rebuilt one, and there should be no problem with them whatsoever. I currently have a 90 Miata with 65,000 miles on it, and a 2006 CTS-V. I preferred the transmission in my CB7 greatly over either of those. The only other transmission that even came close was the one on my 09 Fit (which I put 400,000 miles on... so I know that gearing better than any other!)
                        I thought that too. I'll bleed it again tomorrow and see if it's better. I found a synchrotech rebuilt trans for 699$ plus 100$ shipping. I'm sure I could get some discount for sending them my old one. The synchrotech rebuild kit is like 500 so I'll do some research and look in to doing it myself. Depends on if I get money for my old one. The side to side shifter play needs improving also. I was looking at buying a fit! 5,000$ for a 1 owner with around 120k miles. I like older hondas though...

                        Here's the synchrotech transmission http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Accord...FWFtfL&vxp=mtr

                        And apparently these fit our cables http://www.hybrid-racing.com/perform...-bushings.html

                        Read http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...ge=1&_k=qwh7yk
                        Last edited by kseriescivic; 12-18-2016, 03:13 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Damn. They don't carry Mazda bumper covers. My Miata needs one!






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            Damn. They don't carry Mazda bumper covers. My Miata needs one!
                            http://m.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mazda-...%257Ciid%253A6
                            they have a reinforcment. maybe try their ebay store

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