reklipz : 1991 Accord LX

[dj_ender]

Okay, good to know. The reason I was interested in the knuckles was because of the free positive camber they will afford me. My current shitty suspension setup has too much negative camber; I've never measured it.

You realize to have to enlarge the lbj hole on the lower control arm from 17mm to 19mm to utilze the BB6 knuckle right? Many people consiser this unsafe, although there are a couple membets who currently run this setup.

[reklipz]

You realize to have to enlarge the lbj hole on the lower control arm from 17mm to 19mm to utilze the BB6 knuckle right? Many people consiser this unsafe, although there are a couple membets who currently run this setup.

Yessir, I'm aware. I haven't really given any thought to the safety of the idea, though. I was aware that others ran it and some had concerns, but that was from a while ago and they never replied with issues. I have access to a welder and I suppose I could build up material on the LCA around the hole if that might help with structural integrity?

This all hinges on whether or not the hole needs to have the slight chamfering to it like that $90 reamer tool gives. If so, and I can't somehow recreate it by hand, then I'm probably going to pass, as that's too much work at that point. Once I get the funds I'll give it another look see. Thanks for the concern, much appreciated.

[dj_ender]

Yessir, I'm aware. I haven't really given any thought to the safety of the idea, though. I was aware that others ran it and some had concerns, but that was from a while ago and they never replied with issues. I have access to a welder and I suppose I could build up material on the LCA around the hole if that might help with structural integrity?

This all hinges on whether or not the hole needs to have the slight chamfering to it like that $90 reamer tool gives. If so, and I can't somehow recreate it by hand, then I'm probably going to pass, as that's too much work at that point. Once I get the funds I'll give it another look see. Thanks for the concern, much appreciated.

That is the way you do it, with the reamer.

[reklipz]

TLDR: --
2012/11/30
Replaced rear passenger wheel cylinder (drum brake cylinder).

--

Well, for the first time under my ownership, the car is not actively complaining about any issues; there are no lights illuminated on the dash unless I want them to be, .

Last night I diagnosed and resolved a braking issue. My brakes have always been a bit soft/spongy, even before I changed the passenger front caliper (I bled that single line after changing it). The parking brake indicator on the dash has more or less always been on since I've had the car, and this was the last indicator to fix. I first checked the parking brake switch as I already had the cover off; it cleared. Next, I noticed the master cylinder reservoir was low, so I filled it up. Finally, when bleeding the brakes I noticed the leak. I plan on changing the rear brakes to discs in the near future, so I replaced the cylinder with whatever the local parts store had on hand.

--

Sometime shortly after I got the vehicle I replaced the front passenger caliper. Initially, the store gave me the wrong caliper; I could make it fit in the bracket, but visually I knew it wasn't right. I returned the part and asked to see what else they had; I picked the one that looked like my driver side caliper; it's been on ever since.

Anyway, last night I noticed that the text on the passenger caliper is upside down, whereas the driver side is right side up. Even the bleed screw is flipped; it's on the top whereas on the driver side it is on the bottom. In fact, it looks like the passenger caliper is identical to the driver side caliper, not mirrored. Somehow I managed to fit a left side caliper on the right side. It appears to work fine, and there are no issues with the hoses either. It's staying put until it gets replaced during a ROH swap or similar.

[10thAnnivCB7]

Nice job on maintaining the car man. I wish i could maintain it as well as you do but i don't have all that much time now. Soon i will and she's going to get all my loving.

[reklipz]

Nice job on maintaining the car man. I wish i could maintain it as well as you do but i don't have all that much time now. Soon i will and she's going to get all my loving.

Thanks for the kind words; there's nothing like it to fuel the motivation fire, . Sometimes I wonder whether or not it's worth fixing/restoring/upgrading this particular vehicle given its condition, but I have nothing else to wrench on, so it will have to do! I want to buy another so that I can tear apart the engine and still have a functional vehicle; maybe next year, .

Here are some more pics, click the images for a larger view:



Also, fog city!

[10thAnnivCB7]

Looking good man. Im also waiting till i get another car to go do work on my 10th anniversary. I want it to be different from all the other cb7s tho which is why im looking to do a swap that has never been done on a cb. I have a coulple of ideas but not sure on which yet.

[reklipz]

Well, it's time for my first SeaFoam job. Currently waiting 10 minutes for the show to start. Let's hope there are no issues with doing this to the engine with 230k miles!

[wildBill83]

Is that a JDM coffee cup?

[reklipz]

Is that a JDM coffee cup?

Haha, it came complete with its own tube of Honda Bond, :P.

Well, it's time for my first SeaFoam job. Currently waiting 10 minutes for the show to start. Let's hope there are no issues with doing this to the engine with 230k miles!

Well, there wasn't nearly as much smoke as I was expecting. I fed in about 1/3rd of the pint into the brake boost line, the engine revved up due to the vacuum leak, and started to bog while feeding. It nearly stalled twice, but it pulled through and I shut it off after filling the third. I let it set for about 10 minutes, and she started right back up; no struggling to be found. There was basically no smoke unless I revved it up to 2k - 3k RPM, which I did and more or less held constant until I was satisfied there was no more smoke to be had.

I've had the car for a little over a year, and I've ran 89 octane (10% ethanol) the whole time. Did I do it right? It didn't go as others believe it should have, though I've read posts of users having similar experiences.

Oh, and also. When I would let off the accelerator and let the engine idle, I could hear like a faint "trickle"/"bubbling"/"high pitched gurgle" noise from the valve train. It seemed to be coming from the side closest to the front (timing belt side, left of engine bay) of the engine only. It had disappeared by the time I finished. Any idea what this was?

[tutsuo]

Haha, it came complete with its own tube of Honda Bond, :P.

Its so you can drink coffee while waiting for the honda bond to dry. xD

[reklipz]

Alright, compression test done. Thanks oyajicool. The test was performed with the engine warmed up. Here are the results, as disconcerting as they may be...

Dry

1. 123 psi
2. 125 psi
3. 119 psi
4. 125 psi

Wet

1. 155 psi
2. 142 psi
3. 130 psi
4. 155 psi

The factory service manual, page 3-2, gives the following figures for the 2.2 liters:

• 178 psi nominal
• 135 psi minimum
• 28 psi maximum variation

[dj_ender]

Haha, it came complete with its own tube of Honda Bond, :P.



Well, there wasn't nearly as much smoke as I was expecting. I fed in about 1/3rd of the pint into the brake boost line, the engine revved up due to the vacuum leak, and started to bog while feeding. It nearly stalled twice, but it pulled through and I shut it off after filling the third. I let it set for about 10 minutes, and she started right back up; no struggling to be found. There was basically no smoke unless I revved it up to 2k - 3k RPM, which I did and more or less held constant until I was satisfied there was no more smoke to be had.

I've had the car for a little over a year, and I've ran 89 octane (10% ethanol) the whole time. Did I do it right? It didn't go as others believe it should have, though I've read posts of users having similar experiences.

Oh, and also. When I would let off the accelerator and let the engine idle, I could hear like a faint "trickle"/"bubbling"/"high pitched gurgle" noise from the valve train. It seemed to be coming from the side closest to the front (timing belt side, left of engine bay) of the engine only. It had disappeared by the time I finished. Any idea what this was?

No, you did it wrong. You want to run some of the Seafoam like you did, THEN suck up enough to kill it, THEN let it sit. Otherwise you run all of the Seafoam thru the chambers and when you go to let it sit, there's nothing there to sit and soak...

If done properly, this is what you'll get:

[reklipz]

No, you did it wrong. You want to run some of the Seafoam like you did, THEN suck up enough to kill it, THEN let it sit. Otherwise you run all of the Seafoam thru the chambers and when you go to let it sit, there's nothing there to sit and soak...

Wow, who would have thought that such an underground product existed. The can doesn't say anything about choking out the engine like that. I figured I would play it safe and follow the directions on the can rather than pull a page from some YouTube crazy's book.

Thanks for the reply dj_ender; once I fix my distributor seal leak I'll give it another SeaFoam job through the intake.

--

As I don't currently have a job or any cash flow to support any real work to my car, I'm detailing a list of my options. I will start out by saying that I like to be different, and that cost is definitely an issue. Read that as: I know an H22xx swap is very common, and I also know that the F22Ax has tons of potential and is very reliable; I'm shying away from the H22xx swap because it is very common, as well as having, at least in my mind, a sort of negative stereotype; any bimbo with a set of tools and the Internet should be able to perform the swap without much intellect. Please don't take offense to that, but do please share your thoughts regarding it!

I also have to state that I'm very new to this area; I've never even changed a head gasket before, though I'm confident I'm more than capable. If I make a mistake, or if there is some glaring issue it seems I haven't addressed, it's probably because I'm unaware of the issue or simply haven't gotten that far along in my research yet. Feel free to help!

Here are the main options I'm considering, in no particular order.

Typical long block overhaul, straight F22Ax
This is just the typical overhaul that is necessary with an engine of this age. Mainly to fix the compression issues, as well as any other recommended maintenance items that would go along with that. This is mostly here as a baseline for cost comparison, but it's very possible my budget isn't quite ready for anything else.

• new piston rings (85mm/85.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.2mm, 2.8mm)
  • $38 - Nippon/NPR - eBay
  • $61 - Sealed Power - RockAuto
• cylinder hone
• new rod bearings ???
• head port and polish job
• valve job
• ???

Naturally aspirated build, straight F22Ax
Essentially an overhaul while taking into consideration the short block upgrades that would be preferable for an all motor build. I'm not certain how far I can bore the sleeves for an all motor build without boost; I have read that 86.5mm is basically the maximum even considerable for an boosted setup on an F22Ax without resleeving. What about for an N/A build?

• new piston rings
• cylinder bore and hone
• new piston rings (>= 86mm)
  • $32 - 86mm/86.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.2mm, 2.8mm - Nippon/NPR - eBay
  • $32 - 87mm/87.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.2mm, 2.0mm - Nippon/NPR - eBay
• new piston rods ???
• new rod bearings ???
• head port and polish job
• valve job
• ???

Typical long block overhaul, F22Ax short block w/ F20B DOHC head
This time, take the typical overhaul, but change up the F22Ax head to an F20B DOHC head. VTEC anyone?

• new piston rings (85mm/85.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.2mm, 2.8mm)
  • $38 - Nippon/NPR - eBay
  • $61 - Sealed Power - RockAuto
• cylinder hone
• new rod bearings ???
• head port and polish job
• valve job
• timing belt job
• ECM work for VTEC control (probably a new ECM...)
• ???

Naturally aspirated build, F22Ax short block w/ F20B DOHC head
Again, basically the N/A build for a straight F22Ax, but this time with the F20B DOHC head w/ VTEC in the mix.

• new piston rings (>= 86mm)
  • $32 - 86mm/86.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.2mm, 2.8mm - Nippon/NPR - eBay
  • $32 - 87mm/87.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.2mm, 2.0mm - Nippon/NPR - eBay
• cylinder bore and hone
• new pistons (>= 86mm)
• new piston rods ???
• new rod bearings ???
• head port and polish job
• valve job
• timing belt job
• ECM work for VTEC control (probably a new ECM...)
• ???

K series swap
A K series swap seems interesting. I'm throwing it in the list to get a run down on cost, as well as to get some feedback from you all on the idea. I know 2point6 has done this with a K24; I've been looking at a K20Ax or K20Zx; the K20A is simply too costly I believe. I'm not ruling out a K24, I just haven't done the research here yet. This is by far the most expensive option on the list.

• long block
• I/H/E ...
• ECM and wiring
• lots of other things

[dysfunk]

looking nice! I've considered a K24 as well.