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1991 Accord LX Race Car

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    Good on ya Mike! Anymore plans for the rest of "winter" for you?

    Comment


      Originally posted by SedanTom View Post
      Good on ya Mike! Anymore plans for the rest of "winter" for you?
      There is a Lemons race in March at Sonoma and one on the 5 mile full thunderhill track in may. At some point this summer, the date has not been announced, Luckydog is doing a race at Laguna Seca. Lemons is having races at Buttonwillow in September and again at Sonoma in December.

      So I'm thinking:
      Thunderhill in May,
      Laguna Seca whenever it happens, and (change that to Buttonwillow in September, I missed the Laguna Seca registration time and it filled in less than 1 minute)
      Sonoma in December.


      So I guess I have until May to do all the usual race prep items and swap the manifold and computer, wire up the black box, install the cam, and after the valvetrain is back together, adjust the valves. I've only adjusted valves once before, on my old 911, and I did not fully succeed. I've never replaced a camshaft at all. Should be interesting.



      Dang once I say it like that, I've got a lot to do. Better get to it soon.
      Last edited by ukemike; 02-08-2019, 03:11 PM.
      ==========================
      1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
      1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
      Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
      Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
      M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
      Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

      Comment


        Originally posted by ukemike View Post


        Dang once I say it like that, I've got a lot to do. Better get to it soon.
        Get on it!

        Comment


          Mini-Documentary About Our Little Team

          Some SF State film students, Brian Churchwell and Nevin Long on the Lemons forums in late November asking for a team to volunteer to be subjects of a documentary they were doing for a journalism class. I volunteered. They followed us around before and during the race. It was fun. This is the result:

          https://youtu.be/sCOrY6LXMfE
          ==========================
          1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
          1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
          Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
          Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
          M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
          Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

          Comment


            That is a great short video. You got some drive time in there and most importantly gave out great info on the Lemons race event. Looks like a lot of fun, and your son being involved is wonderful. I grew up racing BMX in Southern California with my dad and brothers and it is some of my best family memories.
            Turbo H23a3 build has begun
            01-01-2019

            Comment


              That was awesome! Thank you for sharing your video!
              ~Nick~
              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
              MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

              Comment


                Awesome video, thanks for sharing

                I know you were talking about a cluster electrical issue. Check out my cluster issue that's getting worse

                https://youtu.be/7nf8-uLuj0E?t=3314

                It's worse on right hand turns. I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet though.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by aventari View Post
                  Awesome video, thanks for sharing

                  I know you were talking about a cluster electrical issue. Check out my cluster issue that's getting worse

                  https://youtu.be/7nf8-uLuj0E?t=3314

                  It's worse on right hand turns. I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet though.
                  Aventari, your issue could be your ICM in the distributor is starting to fail. My tach was doing the same thing leading up to a total ICM failure.
                  MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by aventari View Post
                    Awesome video, thanks for sharing

                    I know you were talking about a cluster electrical issue. Check out my cluster issue that's getting worse

                    https://youtu.be/7nf8-uLuj0E?t=3314

                    It's worse on right hand turns. I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet though.
                    I see what you did there. Your link is set to play the video starting right before your car passed me. You're just trying to rub it in.

                    So was that your tach that kept falling down to zero? Our speedo was doing that for a while before it all died.
                    ==========================
                    1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
                    1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
                    Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
                    Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
                    M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
                    Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

                    Comment


                      Well the instrument cluster seems fixed. Tedd replaced the under dash fuse. That was a lot less trivial than it sounds. Since the dash etc is all gone, all the wiring is zip-tied up and out of the way in a dense tangle. Tedd was upside down in the drivers seat, clipping zipties left and right until he uncovered the fusebox, then he had to figure out which fues it was in the dark down there. Once again, this site was helpful. Somewhere on here I found which fuse it was. Thanks! I cannot imagine us doing anywhere near as well without the help of this site and all the contributors past and present.

                      We also pulled the f22a1 intake manifold and installed the h23a1 manifold and throttle body. We still have to finish hooking up all the vacuum hoses. We need a few adapters and extra lengths of vacuum tube. I'll post a picture after next time we work on it. I still have to swap the ECU and wire the actuator for the butterflys.

                      Our next project after that will be installing the f22a6 camshaft. MOAR POWER!

                      So we will have completed the 30hp for $500 list after the cam is installed, but we spent more than $500.
                      • F22a6 camshaft $90 on ebay (couldn't find one at the local JYs. Each time I've looked all the CB7-EXs had the cams removed before I got there.
                      • H23a1 intake manifold, TB, and blackbox was $155 at the JY
                      • ECU PT6 $30 at JY
                      • Cheap exhaust $250
                      • Muffler was a nice magnaflow discarded from Tedd's '65 Alfa Giulia racecar
                      • F22a4 exhaust manifold $40
                      • Intake was free with the car
                      • various gaskets and seals were about $100

                      If you assume the muffler and intake were $100 together, that puts us at $765, $665 with the free muffler and intake. Still an excellent price for the gain, but more than $500 now.
                      ==========================
                      1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
                      1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
                      Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
                      Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
                      M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
                      Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

                      Comment


                        I'm having difficulty actuating the intake runner butterflies. I believe we are getting good vacuum into the so-called Black Box. So I started checking the electrical signal. If I recall what I read here correctly, the pin A19 goes to ground when the car goes over about 4500 RPM. This is what activates the butterflies. So I have on wire going to a 12v source and the other to the ecu A19. I managed to hook up a multimeter between that pen and ground and was measuring it for continuity and did not see any change when the engine revved up over 4500 or 5000 RPM. I was pretty confident I had the right pin. Kevin, aventari, I remember you actuated them in another way, how?

                        I'm also having another difficulty. The new throttle body has a map sensor. I hoped that I could just connect the vacuum to the old map sensor that is in the firewall black box to a vacuum nipple on the plenum and it would work. It doesn't seem too. The idle bumps up and down and up and down. Pulling the vacuum hose from the map sensor to the plenum off of the plenum steadies the idle about where it should be. It's also running very rich. I really haven't run it long enough to see if this is only an idle condition or not, just long enough to check their butterfly actuation. For those that have done the h23 intake what did you do with your MAP sensors?

                        Apologies for any weird typos or word transpositions I dictated this into my phone.
                        Last edited by ukemike; 03-03-2019, 05:42 PM.
                        ==========================
                        1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
                        1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
                        Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
                        Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
                        M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
                        Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

                        Comment


                          I can tell you that when I had the h22 in my car I used the stock accord map sensor that uses a vacuum line and I had no issue. Is there a leak in the vacuum hose.

                          As for the butterfly actuation I am not 100&#37; familiar with it, but could it require a certain speed before it actuates. I'm assuming you are simply reving to see if the butterfly valves open? They should be closed until 4500 rpm then open up. Are the butterflies remaining open or closed?
                          ~Nick~
                          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                            I can tell you that when I had the h22 in my car I used the stock accord map sensor that uses a vacuum line and I had no issue. Is there a leak in the vacuum hose.

                            As for the butterfly actuation I am not 100% familiar with it, but could it require a certain speed before it actuates. I'm assuming you are simply reving to see if the butterfly valves open? They should be closed until 4500 rpm then open up. Are the butterflies remaining open or closed?
                            They stay closed. Just hooking the actuator to the plenum vacuum keeps them open all the time.
                            Yes revving is how we are testing. I'm sure the neighbors were getting sick of the racket.

                            We are pretty sure it is the electrical not the vacuum that is the problem. My understanding is that pin a19 goes to ground to activate the butterflies. I put a multi-meter on it. Between a19 and ground the resistance does not change when you rev over 4500, nor does the voltage.

                            On the map sensor, does it matter where you connect the vacuum hose?
                            ==========================
                            1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
                            1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
                            Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
                            Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
                            M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
                            Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

                            Comment


                              I didn’t think it was vacuum issue for the butterfly, I was referring to the map sensor. I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back of the plenum. There are two side by side.

                              I’ll look at the schematic tonight and try and see what I can figure out. It could be a bad solenoid or like I said, I wonder if you have to go a certain speed to allow it to actuate. Similar to how vtec won’t activate unless you are going over I think it’s 5 miles an hour or something like that.
                              ~Nick~
                              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                              MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                              Comment


                                If I remember correctly I think the car has to be moving as well to actuate the butterflies. You could always put the front of the car on jack stands then test in gear to see if the butterflies open.
                                MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                                Comment

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