Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

H22 external ignition coil

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    H22 external ignition coil

    Hi I have a h22a swapped into a 91 cb7 with a p28 chipped and tuned by jun. I am having insanely low reaction in cylinder 1 everything is functioning according to test, compression, fuel, and ignition all show test properley. I think there just not happening at same time, but only in cylinder 1. What really I need to now is where the negative cable on my external coil needs to run to. I think where I wired it to the dizzy is incorrect.

    #2
    The external coil doesn't have a "negative" wire. I'm not really sure what you're asking here.

    The HT wire obviously goes straight to the distributor.
    BLK-YEL goes to the fuse box
    BLK-WHT goes to igniter output (technically ground or negative controlled by the ECU)
    YEL goes to igniter power, internally connected to the BLK-YEL wire.

    YouTube Clicky!!

    Comment


      #3
      Sry I know im not being very specific I was trying to spare details. Its external msd blaster coil, just the coil no msd box. I have the side indicated positive fed by the yellow 12v wire to the distributor (blk/ylw in distributor). I think the side of the coil marked negative needs to feed output signal on icm but I don't know how to achieve that.

      Comment


        #4
        Also the cb7 harness I have modified was set up for internal ingnition. Have no stock harness to work off of.

        Comment


          #5
          Pos wire on cool goes to the + on the igniter and the negative on the coil goes to the - on the igniter. So you have to cut a notch in the distributor cap to run the wires outside the dizzy and to the coil blaster.
          ~Nick~
          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

          Comment


            #6
            How do I know which one is which, is it indicated on the igniter

            Comment


              #7
              The blue wire inside the dizzy is the signal wire from the Ecu that tells the igniter when to fire, leave that alone. The blk/yel is the positive which you connect from the igniter to the positive marked on coil. The lead that is closest to the coil on the top of the igniter is your negative. I can't remember what color it is right now but I'll look first thing in the morning.
              ~Nick~
              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
              MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

              Comment


                #8
                Well looks like its hooked right I messed with it and that is the only way it works. Much appreciated for the info though. Is there anything you can think of that would cause low reaction in cylinder 1, everything test functional. Its up to mis-information or electrical mishap.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm curious about this JUN tune. JUN tuned the p13 (one of the few that did), but I'm not aware of any tunes available to burn onto a chip for a p28. Maybe it's a rip of the p13 tune, or perhaps it's a screwy knockoff, which could cause plenty of problems.

                  My advice is ALWAYS to troubleshoot an h22 swap with a stock p13. Remove any unknown variables.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    Its stock labeled p28 and when I pop the top it has a mod chip that has Jun written on it. It was in another cb7 and it all ran fine together when it came out. I think I may have created some freak occurrence trying to remove my black box. Since my p28 is not using the egr i attempted to remove the system. I also do not have knock sensor hooked up since p28 doesn't use it as far as I know.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've already shit one tranny since swap. I don't know if cylinder 1 has always been dead or if it happened along the way, maybe even result of my own actions. I mess with car every day almost its hard to say if there was ever a significant change or not.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Get a P13, and troubleshoot from there.
                        And honestly, I'd look to get your P28 tuned properly, if your engine isn't shot. I REALLY don't think JUN offered removable chips to be used on a P28 to run an H22. That's just not how they work. They're a very high-end company. Chips are... well... rather amateurish. If that chip was marked JUN, it's likely that it's some sort of generic junk. It may have caused damage.
                        A stock P28 will run the engine "fine" until damage is done, honestly.

                        Also, the knock sensor can be activated on a chipped P28. It's not used in stock form, but it doesn't take much to make it functional. Same with the EGR (how do you know the EGR system is deactivated on your ECU?) The same goes for the IAB system as well.

                        Is your CEL on? If so, pull the code. That will at least point you in some direction.
                        Have you done a compression test to see if cylinder #1 is bad? Have you checked for spark at all four plugs?

                        It seems to me that you're jumping into finding a solution before positively identifying the problem. That can make things very expensive, and far more frustrating and complicated than necessary.
                        Remove as many variables as possible (such as the ECU), and test everything.






                        Comment


                          #13
                          I've tested everything possible for proper function, believe me when I say everything and some things twice. I've even changed dizzy now with no change in misfire. If my p28 was looking for a KS that it wasn't plugged into would it through a cel. Would that be able to cause misfire cylinder 1. Also the Egr system has been removed to the purge canister on the intake manifold, and that has a block off plate under it. But when plugged in I have no cel for egr

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X