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Old 08-13-2019, 04:08 PM   #67
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Location: Southwest Ohio
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fleetw00d is very helpful fleetw00d is very helpful
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
So your getting no spark all together? Also have you done a valve adjustment yet? just to confirm your valves are closing completely when they need to I would check the valve lash.

Are you testing for spark at the spark plug? If your not getting spark at the plug check the coil with a test light. Hold the test light a half an inch from the coil(cap off) and have someone try to start and you should see if arc.

This is my video I go to every time I have a no start. He does a great job walking you down the chain.

I have had experience where ICMs have gone out for no reason or warning and I have gone through 2-3 until I had a good one. I always grab these from the junkyard.

Hopefully that video helps Paul.
But I wonder if the shock wave from the belt snapping and the piston to valve collision could have shocked the ignition system and maybe caused a component to fail. 8 valves is a good amount of bent valves.

I don’t think you bent any valves putting the head on and the shop should have given you the head set back to TDC.
Low compression on one (heck, any) cylinder won't affect whether the ignition system (I know you know that), so for the moment I'm concentrating on getting it to fire. The shop completely assembled the head, including setting valve lash - I haven't rechecked it. I forgot to take him new spark plug tube seals, so he reused the old ones. Against my own advice, I removed the rocker assembly without backing off the valve adjustments to install new seals; then reinstalled the rocker assembly using OEM torque specs.

No spark whatsoever. Working by myself mostly, so I put my timing light on #1 spark plug wire and taped the trigger so I can watch from the driver seat. Not even random flashes and no indication of random firing from the engine. I do have fuel in the rail and smell fuel at the muffler exit after prolonged cranking.

It is an internal coil distributor (new from Honda a few years ago); resistances through the coil check out according to the service manual. I'll figure out a way to check it for spark.

Is there a way to check the sensors (TDC, etc.) within the distributor?

More today:

Grumpy, thanks for the video. The OEM manual doesn't say anything about checking for the alternating signal at the coil ground. I don't have a test light, but I pulled out my Heathkit oscilloscope and connected it - I have alternating voltage at the coil ground. Connecting a wire from the coil terminal to near the block, I was able get a spark there. I had destroyed the rotor trying to get it off, so I installed one from a 92-93 distributor (the part numbers are different - are they interchangeable?). The resistance through the rotor was sky high until I used a small wire brush to clean the center contact and get resistance down to about an ohm. Similar for the cap, cleaned up the carbon contact to make sure I had low resistance from the coil contact to the center button in the cap. With all that done, I still get no indication of spark at the plugs.

20190813_191810 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

How big a gap should the spark be able to jump? With the wire about a quarter inch away from the block, there was no spark; had to get it a lot closer and the spark was more orange in color than blue. Weak coil? Resistance measurements between terminals were right where they were supposed to be according to the manual. I can get a coil from Honda, but not cap and rotor - any recommendations for those besides my local AutoZone?

Last edited by fleetw00d; 04-09-2020 at 09:39 PM.
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