TO start off this will slowly but surly get pics to describe in detail what needs to be done.. patience is all i ask.
start to finish:
to create a show car these things must be done.
1. angle grind with 36 grit disks on all dents . and surroundings about 3 inches per inch size of the dent.
never use this on a hood or trunk lid. the metal is to thin and you will warp it. thats where a DA with 80 grit comes in
2. hammer and dolly the metal as contored as possible to the car.
3. wipe a thick layer of golden glaze over the entire sanded area, before it gets hard make sure you have a straight block longer than the dented area,, and 36 grit paper and knock the top of the golden glaze off while still soft but not to soft.. this stuff becomes a rock if you wait to long. repeat step if nescecary.
4. wipe metal glaze over the golden glaze and exceed the area around it about another 2-3 inches, again you need a block the size of or longer than the wiped area.. and now you will use 100 grit,, let this dry thouroughly though. while sanding never go in a back and forth motion always cross hatch direction. and rotate kinda making an x.
never try to make it look how you want it,, it will level it's self out,
5. now with a DA if nesscary go over the edges of you work to creat a feather edge on the surfaces.. you should be able to rub your hand across it and not feel any dips or lumps basically.
6. now with you flat block put 180 grit on and go back over all your work getting rid of any large scratches.
if you are not familiar with this you may get pinholes.. whitch are tiney little holes in your metal glase,, that means you used to much harddener and it solvent poped basically. meaning it dried to fast before the solvents could all get out. if so you can wipe another thin coat of glaze or use Kyubie,, thats not the correct spelling i know.. buuut use a razor blade and skim it only in the holes do not cake this,, once dry within 5 mins use 180 grit to nock off the top.
7. it doesn't matter your brand primer but i recomend not using cheap laqure primer use a good high build primer.
do not use to much hardener or it will get air bubbles and not adheare. your air pressure should be between 35- 39 lbs of pressure not to wide of a fan spray or it will not lay correctly.. as you spay from side to side keep the gun directly purportional to every angle of the car and always keeep the gun flat and straight on each part,, once you go across flick your rist out so you do not get high spots at the end of each stroke. if you got a high build primer you can put 4 heavy coats on and be set and probly not have to prime again. also with a good primmer you want all your coats to be thick. primer is made to be such. as you are spraying whatch the orange peel and try your hardest to keep a thick orange peel pattern.
8. use either spray paint or guide cote, mist the paint or rubb the guide coate over the area of primer. use 180 on a long block porportianable to the size you are working with sand till all the guide caote is gone only.. now reguide coate once its alot smoother now use 320 sand paper and do the same thing again. once you do this guide coate again,, and get 500 grit wet sandding paper.. all the sanding ways should be done with the x pattern of sanding.. with 500 grit you need a small soft block to rap the papper around. sand till the guide caoste is gone.
now if you are doing a matalic color you need to repaet last step with 600 grit to rid of any sand scratches..
9. now you are ready to get some grey scuff pads from a paint store,, and comet,,, go over the entire area detailed in every crevis,, when paint pulls loose it's because someone didn't sand in a creavis for it to have something to hold onto.. a gentle amount of pressure should be applied not hard though.
10. now you are ready to tep up,, i can't exzactly discribe on here how you need to back tape and such to creat an image with no hard lines so i will let you research that.
11. your in a both,, wherever that may be a garage wherever. spray it down with a small amount of water and static free if you have any,, another good thing to rid static is spray though your gun in the room alchol,, this helps alot in garages.
12. find a pre-cleaner solution the brand doesn't matter or use alchole this will also work.
you also need a tack rag! after you cleaned tack it off verry good,, do not press hard just wipe it over the surface.
13.. if you aren't certain about your prep work you can seal the car the brand sealer does not matter,, just mix as told, spray faster than you did on primer.. my Sata Jet 2000 i spray at 42 lbs but your gun should tell you the propper amount.
let that tack up for about 15 min go with some 600 grit and nib sanding out any small pieces of trash that may be in it. tack it off afterwards.
14. your paint: spray perfectly with even strokes with the same amount of paint laying on the surface with each stroke, being sure to hold the gun perfectly is key,, and never let off the air blowing through the gun even when you don't have it blowing paint while in the process. silvers and such colors ought to be sprayed by a professional because we were trained to do such and give that perfect silk finish,, without blotchyness and such,, practice on something else before you do your car! also set for 15 min between coats, tack between each coat.
15.. spray the clear on alot heaver depending on the brand and thickness of the clear.. you will have to use your judgment, practice on thomething else first,. lay one thick coat let it flash for 20 min, do not try to tack it off!
go lay a second coat. if a third is desired wait 20 mins then lay a third.
16. when the clear is cured enough that it does not leave fingerprints, the only way to have a perfect finish is to wet sand and buff.
this is not a easy job by no means, it is harder than painting, i did it for 4 years straight and perfected my own ways.. i start with dry 1200 grit paper on a da, i get most the orange peel out with this and all the trash i go back with water and 1500 grit on the same soft block we used for paint prepp with 500- and 600 grit. and i sand the same as if prepping a car to paint,, only sand in one direction though! then i get 2000 grit paper and do the same.. trizac makes a 3000 grit da paper that u use with water and i go over all my sanding about 5 times as much with this as i did the rest... whatch your edges! when it's good the water should by now sart beeding up and running off.
17. click here for my buffing diy buffing, not for the faint of heart. i use a dewalt electric buffer with adjustable speeds..
my compound is system 1 i use all three pads with this then i wipe the system one off with a microfiber rag,, you better get alot of those rags and keep them spotless clean,, no dropping them on the floor.
then i use the trizak 3M glaze and then the new 3M swirl remover,, i only use that on black if i am worried. wipe the compound all off gently. this tasks should not be preforemed out in sunlight at all!!!!!!
the buffer: when buffing start at a low speed and work your way higher most compounds only call for 14000 rpms.. i buff at 2000 because i am confident and it's alot faster. but on your edges always make the buffer spin off the edges not torward or you will burn though or roll your paint up and have to start over.. once again highly recomended a professional do this!!
once complete wash car a hundred times it feels like till you got all the compound out of every nuck and cranny and jams.. sit back and look how beautiful she is!
ohh and the 9 piece block set i use is dura block i got them off ebay for only $109
if any questions concering my methods just pm me,, becaue i have for many years worked in our collision repair shop and i am currently the head painter.. also when it comes to blending colors you need to let a profesional with all the right solutions and thinners to do so
start to finish:
to create a show car these things must be done.
1. angle grind with 36 grit disks on all dents . and surroundings about 3 inches per inch size of the dent.
never use this on a hood or trunk lid. the metal is to thin and you will warp it. thats where a DA with 80 grit comes in
2. hammer and dolly the metal as contored as possible to the car.
3. wipe a thick layer of golden glaze over the entire sanded area, before it gets hard make sure you have a straight block longer than the dented area,, and 36 grit paper and knock the top of the golden glaze off while still soft but not to soft.. this stuff becomes a rock if you wait to long. repeat step if nescecary.
4. wipe metal glaze over the golden glaze and exceed the area around it about another 2-3 inches, again you need a block the size of or longer than the wiped area.. and now you will use 100 grit,, let this dry thouroughly though. while sanding never go in a back and forth motion always cross hatch direction. and rotate kinda making an x.
never try to make it look how you want it,, it will level it's self out,
5. now with a DA if nesscary go over the edges of you work to creat a feather edge on the surfaces.. you should be able to rub your hand across it and not feel any dips or lumps basically.
6. now with you flat block put 180 grit on and go back over all your work getting rid of any large scratches.
if you are not familiar with this you may get pinholes.. whitch are tiney little holes in your metal glase,, that means you used to much harddener and it solvent poped basically. meaning it dried to fast before the solvents could all get out. if so you can wipe another thin coat of glaze or use Kyubie,, thats not the correct spelling i know.. buuut use a razor blade and skim it only in the holes do not cake this,, once dry within 5 mins use 180 grit to nock off the top.
7. it doesn't matter your brand primer but i recomend not using cheap laqure primer use a good high build primer.
do not use to much hardener or it will get air bubbles and not adheare. your air pressure should be between 35- 39 lbs of pressure not to wide of a fan spray or it will not lay correctly.. as you spay from side to side keep the gun directly purportional to every angle of the car and always keeep the gun flat and straight on each part,, once you go across flick your rist out so you do not get high spots at the end of each stroke. if you got a high build primer you can put 4 heavy coats on and be set and probly not have to prime again. also with a good primmer you want all your coats to be thick. primer is made to be such. as you are spraying whatch the orange peel and try your hardest to keep a thick orange peel pattern.
8. use either spray paint or guide cote, mist the paint or rubb the guide coate over the area of primer. use 180 on a long block porportianable to the size you are working with sand till all the guide caote is gone only.. now reguide coate once its alot smoother now use 320 sand paper and do the same thing again. once you do this guide coate again,, and get 500 grit wet sandding paper.. all the sanding ways should be done with the x pattern of sanding.. with 500 grit you need a small soft block to rap the papper around. sand till the guide caoste is gone.
now if you are doing a matalic color you need to repaet last step with 600 grit to rid of any sand scratches..
9. now you are ready to get some grey scuff pads from a paint store,, and comet,,, go over the entire area detailed in every crevis,, when paint pulls loose it's because someone didn't sand in a creavis for it to have something to hold onto.. a gentle amount of pressure should be applied not hard though.
10. now you are ready to tep up,, i can't exzactly discribe on here how you need to back tape and such to creat an image with no hard lines so i will let you research that.
11. your in a both,, wherever that may be a garage wherever. spray it down with a small amount of water and static free if you have any,, another good thing to rid static is spray though your gun in the room alchol,, this helps alot in garages.
12. find a pre-cleaner solution the brand doesn't matter or use alchole this will also work.
you also need a tack rag! after you cleaned tack it off verry good,, do not press hard just wipe it over the surface.
13.. if you aren't certain about your prep work you can seal the car the brand sealer does not matter,, just mix as told, spray faster than you did on primer.. my Sata Jet 2000 i spray at 42 lbs but your gun should tell you the propper amount.
let that tack up for about 15 min go with some 600 grit and nib sanding out any small pieces of trash that may be in it. tack it off afterwards.
14. your paint: spray perfectly with even strokes with the same amount of paint laying on the surface with each stroke, being sure to hold the gun perfectly is key,, and never let off the air blowing through the gun even when you don't have it blowing paint while in the process. silvers and such colors ought to be sprayed by a professional because we were trained to do such and give that perfect silk finish,, without blotchyness and such,, practice on something else before you do your car! also set for 15 min between coats, tack between each coat.
15.. spray the clear on alot heaver depending on the brand and thickness of the clear.. you will have to use your judgment, practice on thomething else first,. lay one thick coat let it flash for 20 min, do not try to tack it off!
go lay a second coat. if a third is desired wait 20 mins then lay a third.
16. when the clear is cured enough that it does not leave fingerprints, the only way to have a perfect finish is to wet sand and buff.
this is not a easy job by no means, it is harder than painting, i did it for 4 years straight and perfected my own ways.. i start with dry 1200 grit paper on a da, i get most the orange peel out with this and all the trash i go back with water and 1500 grit on the same soft block we used for paint prepp with 500- and 600 grit. and i sand the same as if prepping a car to paint,, only sand in one direction though! then i get 2000 grit paper and do the same.. trizac makes a 3000 grit da paper that u use with water and i go over all my sanding about 5 times as much with this as i did the rest... whatch your edges! when it's good the water should by now sart beeding up and running off.
17. click here for my buffing diy buffing, not for the faint of heart. i use a dewalt electric buffer with adjustable speeds..
my compound is system 1 i use all three pads with this then i wipe the system one off with a microfiber rag,, you better get alot of those rags and keep them spotless clean,, no dropping them on the floor.
then i use the trizak 3M glaze and then the new 3M swirl remover,, i only use that on black if i am worried. wipe the compound all off gently. this tasks should not be preforemed out in sunlight at all!!!!!!
the buffer: when buffing start at a low speed and work your way higher most compounds only call for 14000 rpms.. i buff at 2000 because i am confident and it's alot faster. but on your edges always make the buffer spin off the edges not torward or you will burn though or roll your paint up and have to start over.. once again highly recomended a professional do this!!
once complete wash car a hundred times it feels like till you got all the compound out of every nuck and cranny and jams.. sit back and look how beautiful she is!
ohh and the 9 piece block set i use is dura block i got them off ebay for only $109
if any questions concering my methods just pm me,, becaue i have for many years worked in our collision repair shop and i am currently the head painter.. also when it comes to blending colors you need to let a profesional with all the right solutions and thinners to do so
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