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Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Car dosn't like to start after driving (flooding?)
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I had this problem and the solution after much research and hair pulling is:
Replacing the MAIN RELAY, the solders on it might be going bad. You can probably get one for 60 bucks at the honda dealership or if you are a bit more adventurous than I, you can take out the main relay- take out the bad solders and resolder it and it should work.
The problem is when the compartment gets heated, the solders on the main relay expand ergo resulting in some stuff that does not want to turn over, by fixing this problem- you should be all set.
Hope this helps.
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Originally posted by drkshdw107 View PostI agree with the main relay theory...but I am not sure this is a great explanation. The main relay is actually a set of two relays. One relay is energized when the key is turned to the "On" position and sends power to the ECU, Injectors, and the second relay. The second relay is turned on for only 2 secs to energize the fuel pump for starting and then provides continuous power to fuel pump once started...
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I can hear my fuel pump pumping (the buzzing sound) for a few seconds when i turn the key on the on position but not start it. I tested this problem twice today and it happend once out of the three times i tried. Was on my way to work and i purposely shut my car off after like half mile and went to restart it and it just bogged down and i had to wait 2-3 minutes. Got to work 9 miles later, shut it off, started it and it started fine. Same thing after i got home from work, started it back up after 10 miles and it was fine. It almost seems random but i don't like it. Within the past 2 months ive replaced igniter, sparkplugs, new bosch wires, dizzy cap and rotor. When it dosnt start i crank it and then smell for fuel in the intake (short ram) but can't smell anything. If it gets worse or keeps doing it bad enough i will shoot for the main relay. I didnt know this was happening to this many people, sounds like an epedemic to me...
Mu car has also been doing a weird sputtering thing. ONLY after its warmed up, under lower rpm's when my gas pedal is like 1/8 of the way down or just a little more pressure needed to move, it will sputter and hesitate untill i give it a little more gas. When it sputters, it mostly holds its speed and dosn't move. Performance is still great and everywhere around the weird sputter spot is golden... It seems to be a mystery. Its been happening a good month or two.
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2 year ASE Certification/Auto Technician Degree completed
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man im so glad this is up i am having the same problem my car starts right up in the mawning then i drive to school 20 mins away and get out for a hour class. then go back and 2-3 mins of cranking. it catchs the idle then dies and its not cool so now i park in thr back so no one hears my cries(especially the gurls) lol but i changed my rotor button, dizzy cap and it did fine for like a week then now back at square one. im gonna put a walbro fuel pump in toma and change the relays and pray it works cause it frustrating. but im glad to c im not the only one havn that problem(dont mean it in a negative way) and im glad for the help
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Ya, there are several people having this problem. I'll probly try the main relay 1st though...Last edited by eazyduzit509; 04-17-2009, 01:52 AM.
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2 year ASE Certification/Auto Technician Degree completed
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man so glad to see its not just my cb..no offense.....but ive checked the main relay and the fuel punp,injectors,ignition....etc...but its been doing this for about 8 months now and its really starting ot piss me off.....i can go out in the morning and its fine but if i shut it off for like an hour it just cranks and every once in a while it will cough like its gonna start and i give it gas and all i hear is my intake and then it dies again.....if its not any of these things listed in this thread what could it be......someone please help!!!!!!!!!IM IN LOVE WITH A CAR..IS THAT WRONG?
MY MR THREAD
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=132771
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Im with ya man, just not sure... This threads starting to pick up like the erratic idle thread. Once you post it, everyone has the same problem, hope we don't see 15 of the these threads though.
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2 year ASE Certification/Auto Technician Degree completed
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normally i would agree with all the main relay theories except for the fact that ive replaced mine and the car did the same thing.
the car hasnt done it in quite a while so at the moment i cant really worry about it.
until it more consistantly occurs and i have diagnostic tools nearby there isnt a whole lot i can do. and i cant afford to just throw a bunch of parts at my car if they dont need to be replaced.
thread subscribed for impending breakdown
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Originally posted by Roque View Posti used to have the same problem on my 89 accord it turned out to be the choke i had it replaced and that helped out alot but mine was carbed!
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2 year ASE Certification/Auto Technician Degree completed
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