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Replacing Front Lower Control Arm

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    Replacing Front Lower Control Arm

    I want to replace my front lower control arm myself but i don't have a press or a garage. My lower ball joints were replaced about a year ago so they don't need replaced but i am assuming without a press i will somehow need to attach those to the lower control arm. I can't find any aftermarket products that come with these attached. I am also thinking of just buying the bushings for the lower control arm and let a shop do it but i hate to pay mechanics to do something when i can do it myself. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

    #2
    To separate the lower ball joints from the lower control arms, you can use something like a tie rod end puller that you can rent at an auto parts store (it grabs the upper surface of the arm above the ball joint, then pushes the ball joint up through the arm. You have to back the nut on the ball joint off some - I usually leave it partially off to keep the threaded rod of the puller from slipping off the end of the ball joint stud). Don't use a "pickle" fork because it will damage the boots. You can get new lower arms with bushings already in them. The rest is just wrenching. It can be a little tricky getting to one of the two bolts for the radius rod.
    Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-05-2018, 06:11 PM.
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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      #3
      Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
      To separate the lower ball joints from the lower control arms, you can use something like a tie rod end puller that you can rent at an auto parts store (it grabs the upper surface of the arm above the ball joint, then pushes the ball joint up through the arm. You have to back the nut on the ball joint off some - I usually leave it partially off to keep the threaded rod of the puller from slipping off the end of the ball joint stud). Don't use a "pickle" fork because it will damage the boots. You can get new lower arms with bushings already in them. The rest is just wrenching. It can be a little tricky getting to one of the two bolts for the radius rod.
      Ok so sounds like something i can do myself. I've read passengers side ones are easier if its a manual(which i have). I see some video tutorials on this i will have to watch.

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        #4
        or this? etc.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
          or this? etc.
          That's for changing the ball joints. His ball joints are relatively new, he just needs at tool to push the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm.
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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            #6
            Here's a cool tip, use a 3/8" Craftsman wrench and stick it in between the knuckle and the control arm after you jack the wheel up.

            Basically do this and you'll save your LBJ boot and avoid using the damaging pickle fork:

            -Put the front end on jack stands
            -Remove the LBJ castle nut and cotter pin
            -Jack the wheel up by jacking on the control arm
            -Stick the butt end of the 3/8" wrench in between the knuckle and LCA, you'll see a flat portion that you can slide it in. Once you jack up the balljoint and lift the wheel a bit, you'll see what I'm saying, it'll create an area for the wrench to slide in, just inside of the balljoint.
            -Lower the jack and press down on the wheel assembly while the 3/8" wrench is in there, it should pop the LBJ from the control arm.

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              #7
              You gotta bit what the stud goes through with a big ass hammer.

              Edit: Bit.... HIT
              Last edited by F22Chris; 04-06-2018, 11:44 PM.

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                #8
                WACKEM!




                Look the spots already circled and someones taken it apart a few times. I like using a 24oz ball peen, keep the castle nut on the threads so you dont smear them. Best method EVAR!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
                  Here's a cool tip, use a 3/8" Craftsman wrench and stick it in between the knuckle and the control arm after you jack the wheel up.

                  Basically do this and you'll save your LBJ boot and avoid using the damaging pickle fork:

                  -Put the front end on jack stands
                  -Remove the LBJ castle nut and cotter pin
                  -Jack the wheel up by jacking on the control arm
                  -Stick the butt end of the 3/8" wrench in between the knuckle and LCA, you'll see a flat portion that you can slide it in. Once you jack up the balljoint and lift the wheel a bit, you'll see what I'm saying, it'll create an area for the wrench to slide in, just inside of the balljoint.
                  -Lower the jack and press down on the wheel assembly while the 3/8" wrench is in there, it should pop the LBJ from the control arm.


                  *****That is exactly how I pop off the LBJ by putting a smaller breaker bar between the knuckle & the arm. So easy to do.
                  Keep Pushing..

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
                    Here's a cool tip, use a 3/8" Craftsman wrench and stick it in between the knuckle and the control arm after you jack the wheel up.

                    Basically do this and you'll save your LBJ boot and avoid using the damaging pickle fork:

                    -Put the front end on jack stands
                    -Remove the LBJ castle nut and cotter pin
                    -Jack the wheel up by jacking on the control arm
                    -Stick the butt end of the 3/8" wrench in between the knuckle and LCA, you'll see a flat portion that you can slide it in. Once you jack up the balljoint and lift the wheel a bit, you'll see what I'm saying, it'll create an area for the wrench to slide in, just inside of the balljoint.
                    -Lower the jack and press down on the wheel assembly while the 3/8" wrench is in there, it should pop the LBJ from the control arm.
                    This, but I use the half inch ratchet on its flat side
                    ......father in law has it back again. Time to shine

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                      That's for changing the ball joints. His ball joints are relatively new, he just needs at tool to push the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm.
                      Ohhh. Ya, just use a very big hammer. And hammer on the LCA, it will come out. If it doesn't get a bigger hammer. Just remember, hit what it goes through.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        best $22 spent evar!

                        https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html

                        This works, won't damage the threads, and won't damage the boot. Hitting the stud with a hammer will damage the threads even if you leave the nut on and hit the nut. Pickle fork will damage the boot. When it lets go it sounds like a gunshot.

                        Oh and Raf99 was right too. You can do both. Turn the ball joint separator until you are getting nervous then hit the LCA on both sides where the stud goes through. They even give you tabs with flat spots to make hitting it easier.
                        Last edited by ukemike; 04-23-2018, 11:31 PM.
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