So me and 91kid have been helping my buddy do the timing belt on his car and after a lot of hate and discontent we got it completely done along with the tube seals and cam shaft seal. I double checked the timing marks a dozen times before we reassembled and everything was lined perfectly. The car just turns over and over and wont start.. if you gas it it will get like one put and fire like one cylinder. otherwise it just spins... What could cause the issue? we have spark and can smell fuel? could i be missing a ground or anything like that?
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Car wont start after timing belt..
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You have spark you say? Check all of them by grounding the side of the plug and crank.
Check that you put the dizzy back. If your not sure turn it 180 degrees. OR put it to TDC on cylinder 1, and then take off the ignition cap and make sure the rotor is facing cylinder 1.
Check the thermostat ground.
Check codes.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
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I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Originally posted by accordztech View PostCheck that you put the dizzy back. If your not sure turn it 180 degrees.
Funny enough, I was just helping a friend today that changed the distributor because the ignitor died in his 92. He was bitching about how the teeth broke off on the new one and how made in China was bad and sure enough, he didn't line up the slot in the proper way lol.
Anyways, if it's getting spark and fuel, it may be firing at the wrong time. At TDC, if you line up the line on the distributor teeth (the one that meshes with the cam) with the line on the distributor housing, the distributor should slide right in and bolt up. If you changed the cap, make sure the wires are in the correct order and correct plug.
Did you have the spark plugs out when rotating the crank to line stuff up?
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Haha i forgot about that. But if you have it 180 degrees off...how did you do that? You turned the motor while the belt was off?
If it still feels off pull the can cover then set everything TDC. Mainly the crank. Check the can to see if it is lined up (don't assume). Then take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to spark plug #1(assuming you timed it to cylinder 1).What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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I'd have to be a little skeptical since you mentioned you guys checked many times and everything was perfect, then it turned out the crank was off by 180? If it's bogging, my guess is you are still off by a tooth.
I'd honestly start from scratch. With the spark plugs out, redo it all. The cam should have the UP mark facing 12, and the lines at 3 and 9 o'clock lining up with the surface of the cylinder head. The crank cog has a dot or arrow, make sure that is lined up with the arrow on the oil pump and the mark on the flywheel or driveplate has the pointer at the white TDC mark.
With everything lined up and put together, with the engine at tdc, put the distributor in with the lines on the two teeth gear lined up with the lines on the distributor housing. Set the distributor so the bolts are somewhere in the middle of the slots as a starting point (won't be too advanced or too retarded). #1cyl spark plug wire should be at the A mark on the distributor cap (usually 2 o'clock), then #3 at 5 o'clock, #4 at 8 o'clock, and #2 at 11 o'clock.
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Originally posted by Shadow91 View Postso we got the engine running.. the crank was off 180* and after that it fired right up.. now the engine bogs.. i dont understand why, it has new plugs, cap, rotor, wires.. the car seems to almost miss while its idling and it just doesnt reev have it did before..
OR you are off on the ignition timing because of the distributor replacement.
Get a timing gun and fire it at the flywheel to verify. , then see if you are able to adjust at the distributor.
If not, you are off mechanically and need to go back in and adjust at the pulleys again.
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Originally posted by Shadow91 View PostHow likely is it that there is motor damage from trying to start the motor with the crank 180 off? We are going to re-due everything from the start but now we are afraid that the motor has head damage.. We would have heard something though, wouldn't we?
EDIT: Come to think of it, having it off 180 deg would cause valve/piston conflicts, yes.
do a compression test.Last edited by batever; 06-09-2011, 12:47 PM.
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