Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

SUSP: Upper control arm replacement (pics!)

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 2
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 template Next
    #1

    SUSP: Upper control arm replacement (pics!)

    Obviously, get your car up, both sides, and get the wheels out of the way. Jack stands in the correct places, not on the suspension!


    Remove the two bolts that hold the nut cover, and loosen the bolt. The joint popped on mine just from the force of the spring.


    Up top, remove the two nuts holding the upper arm to the body.


    Finish removing the nut on the ball joint, and wriggle that bad boy out of there.


    Yay for you.....it's out!


    New vs. old


    The upper mounts don't come tight, and unless you want to yank the shock out, you aren't going to be able to tighten easily while on the car. Do it now, not too tight! I couldn't move my originals by hand at all. Not so good for suspension compliance!


    Now, get'er back in!


    Tighten down the upper nuts, and fit the ball joint. Don't forget the cotter pin.


    A touch of the good stuff on those tiny bolts...


    ...and you're done.


    Ebay suspension bits, from Arm-Can
    2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
    Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
    1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp
    Tags: None
    #2
    did u get an alignment after doing this?

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe
      did u get an alignment after doing this?
      No need to, only thing adjustible on our cars is the toe which goes untouched if you don't mess with the tie rods.

      Good stuff though.


      Originally posted by lordoja
      im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

      Comment

        #4
        word of caution. sometims the bolt doesnt come off that easy and it get stuck in there...u have to hit the metal part of it (not the threads just incause you fuk up) and it should pop out, if not a balljoint remover may be used or those pry things.
        What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

        You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

        Retro!

        Hater

        I love nooBs...They make me look good

        Comment

          #5
          did you remember to lubricate? cuz i had mine installed by a professional speed shop and i dont think they lubricated it, then my rear control arm broke, so i have to wait till my new camber kit gets here before i have them lubricate what they were supposed to do because my steering wheel isnt returning.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by 19accord92
            did you remember to lubricate? cuz i had mine installed by a professional speed shop and i dont think they lubricated it, then my rear control arm broke, so i have to wait till my new camber kit gets here before i have them lubricate what they were supposed to do because my steering wheel isnt returning.
            Your caster sounds like it's off.

            It's adjustable.
            2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
            Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
            1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

            Comment

              #7
              really? okay i'll get that checked, got me kinda worried because of the hard steering. now i have to wait for my energy link end kit before i realign my car, i just changed the camber kit on whole car too. /sigh spent like f'in 450 dolla! anyways a word of advice, if you just wanted to put a camber kit on you dont have to take the whole control arm out, just take out two bolts up top and lightly pound the top of it until it shoots down

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by 19accord92
                really? okay i'll get that checked, got me kinda worried because of the hard steering. now i have to wait for my energy link end kit before i realign my car,
                End links are not supporting members, and have no effect on alignment.
                2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
                Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
                1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

                Comment

                  #9
                  you mean the stabilizer link bar right? that has no effect on alignment? well it's better to be safe than sorry, so i think im just going to wait until it comes. maybe i'll get my alignment checked to see how far off my camber is...

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by 19accord92
                    you mean the stabilizer link bar right? that has no effect on alignment?
                    You can remove your sway bar and drive just fine, so no, no effect on alignment.
                    2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
                    Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
                    1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

                    Comment

                      #11
                      How'd the passenger side work out for you?

                      I have to do mine and you have to remove the fuse block to get to the top two bolts.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by do0dfromcali
                        How'd the passenger side work out for you?

                        I have to do mine and you have to remove the fuse block to get to the top two bolts.
                        i had to remove the fuse box, disconnect the right side terminal, disconnect the negative on the battery just so i dont kill myself on accident...

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by do0dfromcali
                          How'd the passenger side work out for you?

                          I have to do mine and you have to remove the fuse block to get to the top two bolts.
                          No big deal. Four bolts hold the fusebox in place, and just push it aside.
                          2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
                          Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
                          1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by SteveB
                            No big deal. Four bolts hold the fusebox in place, and just push it aside.

                            Sweet


                            Nice work and write up

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Did you notice any major difference in feel?

                              Also is a tie rod remover necessary in removing the ball joint? Did you notice special stools?

                              Thanks.
                              hahahahah

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 template Next
                              Working...
                              X