i currently own a 93 accord EX with about 105k miles on the motor... is there anything i should do before i slap on a turbo? check my valves? and stuff like that...
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
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can my car handle the boost?
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check and make sure you get a good compression and leakdown test daily maintenance is a must. due a nice tune up see how it runs and little shit like that if everything is good you should be set to go but take it little by little to let the car break itself in once again dont wanna overdue it.
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check and make sure you get a good compression and leakdown test daily maintenance is a must. due a nice tune up see how it runs and little shit like that if everything is good you should be set to go but take it little by little to let the car break itself in once again dont wanna overdo it.
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things i did b4 boost:
new copper sprayed headgasket - should have gotten new head bolts
replaced the crankseal
balance shaft seals
cam seal
lower spark plug tube seal
checked valve lash
new timing belt
new waterpump
converted to external distributor with blaster coil
did compression test
cleaned up combustion chamber and head ports
used oil system cleaner to flush/clean out the motor
flush/fill coolant
used seafoam
i'm a bit overzealous but yea that was my pre-turbo maintenance listKnowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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to clean the oil lines on the car when they got cloged(bad head gasket) i used 3 bottles of oil and 1 bottle and a half of kerosene.
but the best way is to fill it up with dissel instead of oil and run the car for 8-10 seconds. then turn it off. put oil do 100 miles and change the oil again. that is the best way ever.
and once u take off the oil,,, put kerosene on the engine. let it stay there for about 30 min. take it off them. that would clear it out. <<<< u do that if u to lazy to take the oil pan off.are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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blockgaurd and ARP studs....... just my $.02 -justin-

MY SH!T FOR SALE!
H23A1 (60,000 miles)
tranny (no grinds)
ECU
DC header w/ heat wrap
full exhaust with angled N1 Canister....
$1000 obo delivered
SOLD!
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if its installed correctly and professionally its not gonna move at all..... im sure all the "well known" companies make their block gaurds with heated treated metals so i doubt they'll react strangly..... its good reasurance b/c my buddy has a EG with single cam that is completely stock internals except a blockgaurd and ARP studs and he has run 12 pounds of boost for a year now with not a single problem.... -justin-

MY SH!T FOR SALE!
H23A1 (60,000 miles)
tranny (no grinds)
ECU
DC header w/ heat wrap
full exhaust with angled N1 Canister....
$1000 obo delivered
SOLD!
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DONT get a ebay special when your trying to reinforce your block...... go to www.honda-performance.com and look on there.... or www.f22parts.com ....... -justin-

MY SH!T FOR SALE!
H23A1 (60,000 miles)
tranny (no grinds)
ECU
DC header w/ heat wrap
full exhaust with angled N1 Canister....
$1000 obo delivered
SOLD!
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