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    F20A swap is complete

    Sup guys, just got my car back today from the shop, only a few minor problems. She burns oil on startup and idle, im guessing from shipping. My temp guage isn't working but Carlos is helpin me as we speak on that one...besides that, nothing too too major. I found out I did not have my original trans and motor...it was from a 95 That made a whole bunch of problems for me, which is why it took so long for the swap. Needed a new flexplate, shift cable housing...stuff like that. Ran into other issues during the swap too..bad this, bad that, axles, motor mount ...oh well....(the integra type R timing belt worked too ) I still have yet to beat on the motor, hehe, so those comments will have to wait..although she revs freely hehe, 88mm stroke pwns! All i need to do is add a resonator now, the DC header and -.2 liter made her a lil high for me





    Formerly 91AccordExR33
    11.68 @ 127mph
    417whp/375wtq
    Sold: 8/2016

    #2
    2.0L dohc owners cough cough (zigen) .. what did u do with the sensor on the radiator housing going into the head?? his is missing if u look in the pics.. well not missing i guess the jdm f20a doesnt have it there.. so my question is.. wtf could the shop have done with it.. also.. his original dizzy doesnt have the connectors cut up.. therefore im assuming that they didnt rewire anything even thou they used a h22a dizzy??? no pinouts need to be changed?.. also hes getting an EGR code.. the jdm EGR looks different.. the top looks black and rather plasticy compared to the USDM one.. could this cause an error in the ecu? them being different? hit me up!!

    i got lee into this mess.. gotta make this motor flawless j00!


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      #3
      niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice....................... -justin-



      MY SH!T FOR SALE!

      H23A1 (60,000 miles)
      tranny (no grinds)
      ECU
      DC header w/ heat wrap
      full exhaust with angled N1 Canister....
      $1000 obo delivered

      SOLD!

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        #4
        wtf? you change that neck on the head with the sensor, and you have to swap over the egrs so you dont get that code anymore..

        what a good job that shop did...
        H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM

        190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header

        ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter

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          #5
          finally in there ...and it looks clean too

          WiKKeDV16- the jdm h22a dizzy is internal so i guess thats why it was a direct plug up since Lee's stock dizzy was internal coil too; also, the h22a dizzy is the same for f22b/f20a. about the egr, im pretty sure the shop rewired the plug to his cb7 harness to fit the f20a egr. *worse case scenario, i've got an extra jdm egr valve waiting for Lee and some nice wires to match
          5.6L V8 32V DOHC
          JDM HERITAGE - US BUILT

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            #6
            koo, thanks primo, u got all the parts i need huh, lol. I was throwing an EGR on the f22a anyways...need the temp sensor for the block....guess mines bad, im gettin no reading at all...any way i can check if its good?


            Formerly 91AccordExR33
            11.68 @ 127mph
            417whp/375wtq
            Sold: 8/2016

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              #7
              that's awesome. Sorry to hear all the problems that were caused, glad you got over them. Let's see some DYNO results Or some 1/4 mile times or something hehe
              2DAO (2 Door Accord Owner)
              JDM H22 DOHC 200/161 2.2L
              My members ride: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20385

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                #8
                bah another question.. is the damn sensor on the radiator housing the CTS sensor?? coolant temp??? or is it the one on the block??


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                  #9
                  Originally posted by phatdoughnut
                  wtf? you change that neck on the head with the sensor, and you have to swap over the egrs so you dont get that code anymore..

                  what a good job that shop did...

                  well if we knew wtf the shop did with the plug for the sensor on the neck then we'd be ok now wouldnt we.. lol..

                  im no too happy with the shops work either..but eh... its in there..

                  WHERE else could they thread in that sensor?? Lee cant seem to find it haning anywhere.. so did they cut it from the harness?

                  also.. he says he has two wires that are hanging cut by the intake manifold.. once he tells me what color they are ill start looking through diagrams..


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                    #10
                    the 2 misc. wire might be for the iab's

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                      #11
                      i was thinking that but wtf would they cut off the plug???


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                        #12
                        Originally posted by WiKKeDV16
                        bah another question.. is the damn sensor on the radiator housing the CTS sensor?? coolant temp??? or is it the one on the block??
                        that sensor on the radiator neck is the cooling fan switch. and i think the coolant temp sensor is located on the thermostat housing.
                        5.6L V8 32V DOHC
                        JDM HERITAGE - US BUILT

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by WiKKeDV16
                          i was thinking that but wtf would they cut off the plug???
                          cause its directly connected to ecu? so they kinda had to cut it off. I think the plug wires for the iab are black and then black/yellow strip

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by PRIMOCB7
                            that sensor on the radiator neck is the cooling fan switch. and i think the coolant temp sensor is located on the thermostat housing.
                            yep, not all motors require the fan switch to be hooked up, so swapping over the neck and sensor from the old motor isnt necessary. if the new motor came with a sensorless neck, then dont worry about hooking one up.

                            EGR looks like an H22 style one. 2 options, 1- splice the matching connector onto the harness so the EGR that came with the f20a plugs in, or put the old F22A EGR onto the new intake manifold, itll work the same and plug into the plug thats already in the harness. if swapping plugs is something youll be doing yourself, 2 of the 3 wires match, the third doesnt... splice em together anyway.

                            i cant really tell from the pics, but it doesnt look like the F20A has secondaries, and thats probably what those two wires by the intake manifold are, the cut plug. they probably kept the black box WITH the plug, and if they end up needing to install it on some other customer's motor, they may need the plug to get it hooked up.

                            and the temperature sending unit that gives the dash gauge its reading is a single wire sensor on the side of the head, directly under the distributor. if you look for it, youll see a coolant line, a round 2 wire plug, then towards the exhaust side of the motor will be the temp sending unit. its a single red wire, make sure thats hooked up, it may have popped off.
                            Last edited by cp[mike]; 01-16-2005, 04:12 PM.


                            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                            Current cars:
                            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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                              #15
                              what do u mean u had to cut it off? why.. even if its connected to the ecu? if it is infact connected directly to the ecu.. then wouldnt it not being there throw a code?? i mean.. the fans wouldnt come on if it is the fan switch..


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