This was quoted from another thread I found while searching on the topic.
[QUOTE=DraZtiK]7) Make sure your car is completely warmed up. With it running, take the intake off the TB. There are 2 holes right in front of the throttle plate, these are the holes that feed the IACV (top hole) and the FITV (bottom hole). With your finger, cover up the bottom hole (it should NOT be sucking if your car is warmed up). If the idle goes down the FITV is to blame, either get a new one or take it apart and screw the valve completely closed (I have only read of people doing this, so I don't know exactly how. Also, you will have to keep the engine speed up yourself when the car is cold).
Next cover both holes up with your fingers. The car should sputter and die (or almost die). If it does then the source of your crappy idle is the IACV. Replace it. If you want you can test the IACV. Shut the car off and put + battery voltage to the blk/yel terminal (on the valve) and momentarily touch ground to the blu/yel side. When doing this the valve should click, if it doesn't, replace it.
Well here's a nice little picture to illustrate what he's talking about.
I first covered up hole A, which according to the information above should not be sucking when the engine is warmed up. Now granted my engine had been shut off for about 30 minutes, but it had been turned back on for a couple of minutes and was still hot from driving around town for hours earlier. Nothing happened when I covered the hole....but still, he said it's not supposed to be sucking.
Secondly I covered the top hole (B), and the car sputtered and died almost instantly.
Lastly I covered both holes, the car sputtered and died almost instantly.
Anyone care to help me interpret that information? Also does anyone understand what he meant about testing the IACV? He mentioned color coded "terminals" but there's just a little plug going to the IACV.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
[QUOTE=DraZtiK]7) Make sure your car is completely warmed up. With it running, take the intake off the TB. There are 2 holes right in front of the throttle plate, these are the holes that feed the IACV (top hole) and the FITV (bottom hole). With your finger, cover up the bottom hole (it should NOT be sucking if your car is warmed up). If the idle goes down the FITV is to blame, either get a new one or take it apart and screw the valve completely closed (I have only read of people doing this, so I don't know exactly how. Also, you will have to keep the engine speed up yourself when the car is cold).
Next cover both holes up with your fingers. The car should sputter and die (or almost die). If it does then the source of your crappy idle is the IACV. Replace it. If you want you can test the IACV. Shut the car off and put + battery voltage to the blk/yel terminal (on the valve) and momentarily touch ground to the blu/yel side. When doing this the valve should click, if it doesn't, replace it.
Well here's a nice little picture to illustrate what he's talking about.
I first covered up hole A, which according to the information above should not be sucking when the engine is warmed up. Now granted my engine had been shut off for about 30 minutes, but it had been turned back on for a couple of minutes and was still hot from driving around town for hours earlier. Nothing happened when I covered the hole....but still, he said it's not supposed to be sucking.
Secondly I covered the top hole (B), and the car sputtered and died almost instantly.
Lastly I covered both holes, the car sputtered and died almost instantly.
Anyone care to help me interpret that information? Also does anyone understand what he meant about testing the IACV? He mentioned color coded "terminals" but there's just a little plug going to the IACV.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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