waxing with buffer

[bcjammerx]

I searched through and found that folks recommend a Porter Cable rotary buffer...I saw a 7-9" recommended, is that good or should I go larger/smaller?

Also on the pads to use, are the slipovers? TypeG posted this link with these listed
Yellow Cutting (D.A.)
76-2165 6 1/2 x 1 1/4" Orange Cutting (D.A.)
76-3165 6 1/2" x 1 1/4" Green Heavy Polishing (D.A.)
76-6165 6 1/2" x 1 1/4" White Polishing (D.A.)
76-7165 6 1/2" x 1 1/4" Black Finessing (D.A.)
76-9165 6 1/2" x 1 1/4" Blue Finishing (D.A.)
76-1165 6 1/2" x 1 1/4" Red Finishing (D.A.)

what do the cutting ones do? I could guess of course polishing and finishing...

I've also seen the mother's power polish recommended.

What I can't find is HOW to wax/polish with a buffer...what speeds...etc etc.

After I wash the car and dry it the right way, I was going to use cleaner, polish, and sealer from mequiars...but do I do this by hand or with a buffer?

Also with carnuba wax, buffer or by hand?

Do those pads word by themselves er...wha? I am clueless here.

[foamypirate]

BUFFING & POLISHING PADS
There are two basic pad types: cutting and polishing. A cutting pad is used with a polish or machine cleaning compound to remove oxidation and fine scratches. Cutting pads make quick work, but will leave noticeable swirl marks, especially on dark finishes. After buffing with a cutting pad, it is necessary to make a second pass with a polishing pad and glaze to remove swirl marks and improve luster.

Cutting pads, also called leveling pads, should be wool. There are a lot of synthetic “wool” pads on the market. Don’t touch them! Nothing beats lamb’s wool. Nothing is safer than lamb’s wool.

Polishing pads, often called finishing or waxing pads, are foam rubber. These are the only pads safe to use on a clearcoat finish. Do not use a cutting pad on a clearcoat finish. That said, some expert body shops will use a cutting pad on a clearcoat finish when blending a repair.

[TypeG]

what makes the pads different is the density of the foam. the cutting pads are harder in comparison to the finishing pads, which are softer.

buffer speed is personal preferance.

there're lots of articals here: www.autopia.org
later.

[bcjammerx]

awesome...I'll read that link later and post if I have other questions...THANKS!


I DO have one other question off hand...should I even use a buffer like that on my wife's 2000 accord? I'm pretty sure it's frost white...but not sure about if it's 1 or 2 stage paint. Either way it's not in bad shape aside from what appears to be some scratches caused by tree/shrub limbs on one side. Or should I just wax by hand? If so, should I just use cleaner wax followed by carnuba or do the whole clay, polish, sealer and glaze, and wax method?

[AccordWarrior]

The PC 7424 is the one that I see nearly everyone use.

I've been doing some reading on Autopia about how to detail correctly.

I've been buying grout sponges, twin 5-gal buckets and microfibers in bulk. I will de-swirl my paint!

[TypeG]

Originally Posted by bcjammerx

awesome...I'll read that link later and post if I have other questions...THANKS!


I DO have one other question off hand...should I even use a buffer like that on my wife's 2000 accord? I'm pretty sure it's frost white...but not sure about if it's 1 or 2 stage paint. Either way it's not in bad shape aside from what appears to be some scratches caused by tree/shrub limbs on one side. Or should I just wax by hand? If so, should I just use cleaner wax followed by carnuba or do the whole clay, polish, sealer and glaze, and wax method?

the paint on your wife's car is a single stage. i'd clay it and use a cleaner wax. below is a link to an artical on white honda paint. it describes why you woudn't get much of a difference from using multiple step vs cleaner wax on white.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/detaili...ite-paint.html
later.

[mrvinyl33]

I use the PC 7424 orbital/DA myself with the 6" counterweight and 6" backing plate.

Originally Posted by AccordWarrior

The PC 7424 is the one that I see nearly everyone use.

I've been doing some reading on Autopia about how to detail correctly.

I've been buying grout sponges, twin 5-gal buckets and microfibers in bulk. I will de-swirl my paint!

[bcjammerx]

Thanks all...

I was wondering about that, being single phase...I did the three steps on the hood, front fenders, and doors...then didn't notice much difference from the doors to rear panels where I did just cleaner and then carnuba. I still want to go back and use a buffer cause I think it'll shin a little better, but most likely I'll just do as you suggested.

With the clay bar...a lot of the "lube" that comes with it or just enough to sprinkle the surface? Do I need to push down so hard that the clay grabs or let is slide nearly on the lube?

[TypeG]

you can never have to much lube when claying. the clay bar is abrasive, but not abrasive when used correctly. the lube makes the clay hydroplane across your paint, so if you don't have enough lube you can marr the paint.

here is a vid on it.
http://www.waxforum.com/showthread.php?t=960
later.

[Losiracer2]

Originally Posted by TypeG

you can never have to much lube when claying. the clay bar is abrasive, but not abrasive when used correctly. the lube makes the clay hydroplane across your paint, so if you don't have enough lube you can marr the paint.

here is a vid on it.
http://www.waxforum.com/showthread.php?t=960
later.

well I want to clay bar my paint, but do I HAVE to use that expensive quik detailer that comes w/ it? its like 8 bucks for a little spray bottle. Or could I use something else....possibly homemade? lol that'll work pretty much the same? b/c the key is keeping the surface wet right? so the clay bar doesn't dig into the surface of the paint

[TypeG]

Originally Posted by Losiracer2

well I want to clay bar my paint, but do I HAVE to use that expensive quik detailer that comes w/ it? its like 8 bucks for a little spray bottle. Or could I use something else....possibly homemade? lol that'll work pretty much the same? b/c the key is keeping the surface wet right? so the clay bar doesn't dig into the surface of the paint

the clay kits come with the instant detailer. honestly, i wouldn't use anything else. i just wouldn't want to risk marring the paint.