Yo, I've been working on these the last few weeks and finally got them fine enough to stop fussing over. For now.
For those of you who want to improve your ride's sound, this costs about 30 bux and a few dedicated hours.
You'll need:
Screwdriver's to get your door apart.
A dremel or cutting bit.
Two tweeters.
A soldering iron and solder.
Extra wire, to connect everything with.
Electrical tape or shrink wrap, to keep the wires separated and clean.
Possibly some resistors, depending on the power of your amp and rating of the Tweeters. Read the box.
Bondo.
Sand paper. (up to 400 grit minimum)
Paint and masking tape.
Before we begin, I'd like to say that this was my first venture into tweeters and bondo. I don't mean together, I mean for each. The tweeters significantly improved my audio, but I learned that bondo is a royal pain in the butt. I also learned to always take the sails out when working on them. Don't be lazy and apply bondo or anything else while they are still in the door. It's just more work in the long run.
Alright, first of all, take apart your doors. That should be pretty obvious. You can always get some spare sails if you want to do those first, but this is how I did it.
The guy at the local audio shop recommended this brand from his selection. All I can say for these is that I love them. I put them nearly flush with the sail, no angles, and they sound pretty centered, sometimes even like I'm wearing surround sound headphones.
You should know how to get your door open by now.
I don't know if the foam served any real purpose, but I took it out.
Drill a pilot hole. I'd highly recommend that you take your time while making the holes, and make sure that the tweeters are exactly the same. Using some tape to make guides is a good idea.
Post-dremel.
The power mirrors never worked on my car and I never adjust them, so I just cut the wires out. They were only in the way.
Ok, we've taken our time and drilled/sanded out the hole. In my case, I had a dremel with a sanding wheel on it, which sliced through this like a hot knife through frozen butter.
Hopefully you've got your soldering iron nice and hot by now. A personal innovation I'd recommend is that if you use these regularly (like me), a 3 ring binder makes a great carrier/stand for them, like here.
Note: If you need to wire a resistor in, make sure that you get it in here. You don't want too much power going to your tweeters after you have them bondo'd in and everything, that would be a lot of work to replace. In my case, my header puts out 16 watts rms, so I'm pretty safe.
Also, I know it's not the prettiest soldering job. It just gets uglier as I redo it while working on it, too.
Ok, I took the opportunity to clean up my previous speaker install job. I soldered those puppies up, then added the tweeter cables to them and screwed em back in.
Wrapping electrical tape around it.
For those of you who want to improve your ride's sound, this costs about 30 bux and a few dedicated hours.
You'll need:
Screwdriver's to get your door apart.
A dremel or cutting bit.
Two tweeters.
A soldering iron and solder.
Extra wire, to connect everything with.
Electrical tape or shrink wrap, to keep the wires separated and clean.
Possibly some resistors, depending on the power of your amp and rating of the Tweeters. Read the box.
Bondo.
Sand paper. (up to 400 grit minimum)
Paint and masking tape.
Before we begin, I'd like to say that this was my first venture into tweeters and bondo. I don't mean together, I mean for each. The tweeters significantly improved my audio, but I learned that bondo is a royal pain in the butt. I also learned to always take the sails out when working on them. Don't be lazy and apply bondo or anything else while they are still in the door. It's just more work in the long run.
Alright, first of all, take apart your doors. That should be pretty obvious. You can always get some spare sails if you want to do those first, but this is how I did it.
The guy at the local audio shop recommended this brand from his selection. All I can say for these is that I love them. I put them nearly flush with the sail, no angles, and they sound pretty centered, sometimes even like I'm wearing surround sound headphones.
You should know how to get your door open by now.
I don't know if the foam served any real purpose, but I took it out.
Drill a pilot hole. I'd highly recommend that you take your time while making the holes, and make sure that the tweeters are exactly the same. Using some tape to make guides is a good idea.
Post-dremel.
The power mirrors never worked on my car and I never adjust them, so I just cut the wires out. They were only in the way.
Ok, we've taken our time and drilled/sanded out the hole. In my case, I had a dremel with a sanding wheel on it, which sliced through this like a hot knife through frozen butter.
Hopefully you've got your soldering iron nice and hot by now. A personal innovation I'd recommend is that if you use these regularly (like me), a 3 ring binder makes a great carrier/stand for them, like here.
Note: If you need to wire a resistor in, make sure that you get it in here. You don't want too much power going to your tweeters after you have them bondo'd in and everything, that would be a lot of work to replace. In my case, my header puts out 16 watts rms, so I'm pretty safe.
Also, I know it's not the prettiest soldering job. It just gets uglier as I redo it while working on it, too.
Ok, I took the opportunity to clean up my previous speaker install job. I soldered those puppies up, then added the tweeter cables to them and screwed em back in.
Wrapping electrical tape around it.
__
but ? couldnt you have popped you tweeters out of the little plastic this that houses them? the set of tweeters i have come with a little black cup the the tweeters sit in on a spring so they can be focused. you know so you wont get bondo into the grill area
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