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Old 12-23-2008, 01:31 PM   #1
8ball
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What to do when you first get the CB search & DIY

A lot of people do not have a clue about their cars that’s OK because that’s what we are all here for. So in hopes of a sticky I wish to answer a lot if not most of your questions.

A few key notes: DIY refers to DO IT YOURSELF it is a sub forum and is awesome and it can be found by using the search button/function.

Search is awesome using advanced search is even better. You can even search for help on using the search button

You just bought your first accord. We hope that it is all stock and at least running.
If its not working/running there is a ground at the thermostat, also an igniter and a main relay that are usually the culprits. If not that then its either the ECU or the Fuel pump. If that doesn't fix it then its an electrical issue and youre fucked. LOL no not really. Just figure it out buddy!

Let’s assume you have checked the head lights turn signals hazard lights wipers ECT already. And that they are fine if not it may just be some fuses or some wires down load the helms manual it is free. (search for that)

Get your battery starter and alternator tested at advance auto parts or AutoZone. Hope fully everything checks out and you don’t have to replace anything if you do how ever there should be some diy's and online accord manuals to help.

Make sure you have nice battery terminals if you don’t then there is chance you can get all sorts of issues. Also I reccomend getting some "TERMINAL POST CAPS" they are made of lead and go over the BATTERY POST, they help the TERMINALS to grab onto the BATTERY POST. Get some terminal cleaner/protector from the auto parts and clean the grounds and positive cable.

Next up check is the sticker on the driver side door jamb. It should say the size of tire your car should run and the amount of psi they should have. Adjust your psi (never go over the PSI WARNING ON THE TIRE) . Its simple just a tire psi gauge and compressed air at the gas pumps should do fine. If you have low thread save up for some tires. Tires are the only thing keeping you on the road. All-season is best. Second if you have low psi say bye bye to MPG.

You should look at your radiator too. What does it look like? IS it mashed up and have bad fins? Does it leak water through the side plastic end tanks? What about your radiator cap is it dry rotted? Replace the rad cap. It can cause all sorts of over heating trouble. Squeeze your hoses. They should be firm and not spongy. Replace if they are spongy. There is a DIY for that too. Flush your radiator or have it done professionally. This should help your car out. You see if there is debris and build up it can clog a water pump or passage way and cause over heating. BTW it doesn’t use orange or green coolant use Yellow universal coolant. Search the DIY for the thermostat if you want to replace it which isn't a bad IDEA. Use only an OEM thermostat from the dealership or auto-zone that is not a FAIL SAFE those are shit.
BTW just to add there are more than just two radiator hoses in your car. Check the other hoses that carry water for rot or deterioration they are likely to cause you to be stranded when they blow. Seriously. I would fix that if nothing else on the car before I would take it on along trip along with the rad cap.

Ok so now you think "Hey, this car is GREAT!!!" Ha, not for a long shot buddy.

It is now time to get a little more involved. Download, print out or buy a car manual preferably a Helms; If you have not done so, other wise you'd be following the DIY and I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE.

First off we will start with the basic stuff.

TASauto hondaautomotiveparts are good websites and performance wise choose Bisimoto but dont bandwagon his stuff search other places there are some (in limited numbers) that cater to our accords.

Let’s start with your ignition.
Once you take the cap rotor and dust cover off you’ll notice either the dist has clean guts or has oily guts. **You'll also notice that what the rotor is attached to is rusted take some sandpaper and clean it!** IF they are oily search for distributor seals and follow the DIY. Also have your Igniter checked at AutoZone for free. If it’s good Yay! If not then add another drop to the bucket.
Inspect the rotor and cap if they are not rusty or covered in weird stuff keep them if not replace. You should replace it but you dont have too its just good practice to do so.

Check your wires in resistance (search google on how to to this you will need multi meter). Most of the time the cheapo wires fit wrong and are weak.(my oreilly and autozone wires had to have the boots "cut" just a bit for them to go down all the way) Replace with original equipment or NGK's. As for the spark plugs there should be a sticker on your air box that tells you what type of plugs to use. USE ONLY COPPER RESISTOR PLUGS. If you get platinum or iridium it fucks your computer way up!) Gap them and try to install them so that they point towards the intake manifold.(you gain 1hp doing this you will need a rubber hose and some patience) Search and you shall find a DIY.

Now you may notice that once you pulled out the original plugs there was oil on them. Well Buddy if you do then here’s what you got to do.

You need to buy a valve cover gasket set. Find the DIY and replace them. You may also find that on the DIY there is a reference to valve lashing. Well either have some one at a good shop do this or DIY. Me personally I would take it to Toyota to have it done if I was a rich man lol. IF you DIY make sure you follow instructions and find TDC have a timing light and at least some know how or a good supervisor.

SO you’re almost done. Heh?!!!

Not close if you want your car to last you after all that work you just did you need a timing belt/water pump kit from TAS. LOL. No. Seriously. Get your timing belt and water pump on at the same time you get your valve lash done. This WILL save you cash at the end of the day. You may also find the DIY on this forum. I would like to add that there are certain seals and gaskets that may be dry rotting and should be replaced at the time of the timing job. Oil corrodes rubber and a gasket that gives off a small leak can cause your rubber timing belt to snap when you least expect it.

!!!!!!!!!!!!Also do not attempt adjust the timing of the motor if you have an erratic idle!!!!!!!!

SO now you have a ride that can get you to and from work and maybe even out of state!!!

Now its time for the simpler stuff. Like getting an oil change with mobile 5000 oil. And using a Honda or Delco oil filter.(actually I should have placed this on the top of the page but you get the drift of sequence, dont skimp on the oil change bro do it right away after reading this) And getting a nice drop in KN filter(actually you could just get a paper panel filter because there is some evidence that the k&n filter and other CAI are just a gimmick !!! First mod w00t. A pcv valve as well.

You at this time can also find the DIY to replace the transmission fluid.

At this time you should have an engine and transmission that could last another 100K if driven responsible.

Now if your car squeaks every time it turns on you need new V-belts. A DIY should help you out. And it could actually be squeaking because the power steering pump or soft rubber hoses are leaking fluid all over them. BTW use only *!HONDA APPROVED POWER STEERING FLUID!*

Or if you turn your wheel and hear a squeaky sound it is time for some trouble shooting. IT could be lack of steering fluid. A bad hose. A bad power steering pump or worst case the steering rack. A DIY can be found for most of these. The steering rack will require a bit of KY jelly but its not to bad after you figure stuff out its not for the NOVICE however.

IF you turn your car and hear a clicking noise it is one of your CV joints. Easy fix just slide out and install.

When you drive and you hear a humming it could be the wheel bearings.
Lift the vehicle and wiggle the rims front to back. You can find the DIY as well. Maybe even a ROH for that. DIY. Also to add the nut that holds the CV joint could be lose or the tie rod or control arm joints could be lose as well. But more than likely its the fucking HUB. We are the only hondas that have to suffer with this SHIT design.
If you have the resources (about 300 just for a proper conversion with out rims or tires) then you could do a 5 lug conversion. search and ye should find, then read. Then read it again. Then search again. Then read it again. Then ask a legit and plausible question in a thread before doing the conversion.

There maybe some problems not mentioned here but a quick search should help. You can find trouble codes on the forum and DIY. They are stored in your computer so lets hope you don’t have a code '0'. If there is not CEL and you jump the blue connector and the CEL is solid then your car is ok. If you have a CEL and you jump the connector and the CEL is solid, well then you have a bad ECU.

IF your gears change by themselves while you drive it is your TCU. DIY and Search.
A 94-95 TCU has been used by yours truly along with a p12 ecu and my combo shifted at red line EVERY SINGLE TIME I WOT
IDLE issues are a big one and can be solved fairly easy. Search and DIY.

You may also want to take you car to get aligned and inspected. FireStone does this for 21.99 and believe me they will try to butt fuck you. Unless you like getting butt fucked, dont let them do any thing else other than a complete vehicle inspection. Also they do A/C checks for *19.99 They will probably tell you they can't align it and you have a bad oil pan gasket or misc other gaskets are bad and a few bad ball joints tie rods ECT. Just have them give you a print out of what is wrong find the parts for cheap and DIY replace them. Auto-Zone has rental tools. DIY DIY DIY.
Then return for the alignment. With new tie rods and ball joints. They do offer a lifetime alignment if you plan to drive your car constantly why not buy it? You could literally go in every day and have it aligned.

Have fun. Your car is in the best shape it can now be in. Check out hondafan81 for some info on out 8.8:1 c/r engines going NA. Or search for turbo projects. Alternatively nitrous can be an option.

IF you followed and read well you shouldn’t be stranded on the side of the road. You should do this before you add an intake or header or exhaust or camshaft or think about a swap. Since most swaps are old you’d have to do most of this stuff any way.
Really think about your car. Its fucking 25 years old soon. 25 years old. It needs half this any way. But the good thing is you should only have to do this once. ALso think about your car. Why do you want to go any faster than the rest of traffic? Safely you can accelerate well beyond most of them and not lose hardly any MPG. Be smart guys/girls. Dont be a speed racer idiot. Once you start modding your car you'll notice that its really not worth it to have a faster car than it is to have a safe and realiable car. Be an adult.




Start saving up and start now. My guess is that for about 500-700 more dollars you car can be way more reliable ride. It’s cheaper to DIY.

Now there may be some things not covered but this just an overview and easy fixes to a lot of stuff.

Enjoy your accord

Last edited by 8ball; 06-07-2012 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:04 PM   #2
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Good write up.i enjoyed reading it
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:10 PM   #3
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good write up, I vote sticky.
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:11 PM   #4
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good write up, I vote sticky.
Then nobody will read it.
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:13 PM   #5
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Then nobody will read it.
True, didn't think about that.
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:36 PM   #6
8ball
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I was hoping to help alot of members I could have added links to the DIY but isn't searching part of the fun???
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Old 01-15-2009, 08:32 AM   #7
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Nice write up, its quite helpful
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:34 PM   #8
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a much need three year necro bump for the newbies that dont know where to begin diagnosis and other cool things
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:10 PM   #9
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Yeah actually this really does help! Thanks! Actually I would vote to sticky so it doesn't get lost again! Lol
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:48 PM   #10
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i vote for sticky too
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:29 AM   #11
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Great write up.. This sounded like my experience with the cb7! Sticky sticky
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:52 PM   #12
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Bump for spelling edits and updates to the info. Maybe one day ill add links to it as well.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:54 AM   #13
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Bump for spelling edits and updates to the info. Maybe one day ill add links to it as well.
NOOOO don't they need to learn to search for the DIY's.

Rep given very nice write up man.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:04 PM   #14
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NOOOO don't they need to learn to search for the DIY's.

Rep given very nice write up man.
This isnt in the DIY tho !

shameless 6 month bump
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:19 PM   #15
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tl:dr

Sorry but if they aren't going to read the rules what makes you think they're going to read a giant wall of text about being responsible and searching?
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:31 AM   #16
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tl:dr

Sorry but if they aren't going to read the rules what makes you think they're going to read a giant wall of text about being responsible and searching?
IDK a miracle ?

exploding cake made my original a sticky somehwere I just edit this one from time to time and bump as well.

I think its a great fucking read. Even baffled at how much I'm trying to help random people. But yeah next time I update or bump I want to have some links and pics along with it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:58 PM   #17
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This was helpful--thank you!
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