rexload: 2012 Subaru Impreza WRX

[rexload]

Off-roading aftermath pictures PAGE 2

[islandhopper]

tits...nice scooby

[rexload]

thanks


shit is slow as balls, 265hp my ass, feels like 150hp. and gets 15-16mpg.

[Clean_4th gen]

Very nice. 6speed right?!

[Gemini]

Originally Posted by rexload

thanks


shit is slow as balls, 265hp my ass, feels like 150hp. and gets 15-16mpg. should have gotten a civic si

Might be slow but is it quick?

[rexload]

Originally Posted by Clean_4th gen

Very nice. 6speed right?!

nope, 5speed

Originally Posted by Gemini

Might be slow but is it quick?

she is quick in 1st and "okay" in 2nd gear.... but once you are already moving, it is very very laggy. you can tell the factory tune is horrible.

[Gemini]

Originally Posted by rexload

nope, 5speed



she is quick in 1st and "okay" in 2nd gear.... but once you are already moving, it is very very laggy. you can tell the factory tune is horrible.

Really? Shit, my 7th gen is quite quick

[rexload]

it's really hard to impress me. so idk. but I can't afford anything fast that is AWD and I didn't want a used car for a daily beater.

[AccordWarrior]

You must be driving it quite hard to get such a low MPG figure unless you're still in the break-in period, or someone hid a half ton of lead in the spare tire well.

A reflash should wake things up.

Is this a purchase or a lease? If it's a purchase I'd strongly advise looking into the KillerB oil pickup, it's a real weak point in the motor.

I'd also strongly recommend the Kartboy shift bushings and rear stay. It won't give you Honda precision, but it will do a lot to alleviate the baseball bat through a barrel full of bowling balls shift feeling.

[rexload]

Originally Posted by AccordWarrior

You must be driving it quite hard to get such a low MPG figure unless you're still in the break-in period, or someone hid a half ton of lead in the spare tire well.

A reflash should wake things up.

Is this a purchase or a lease? If it's a purchase I'd strongly advise looking into the KillerB oil pickup, it's a real weak point in the motor.

I'd also strongly recommend the Kartboy shift bushings and rear stay. It won't give you Honda precision, but it will do a lot to alleviate the baseball bat through a barrel full of bowling balls shift feeling.

Thank you for the advice. I was told by a few other WRX owners to get a "stage1" reflash as soon as possible. Somebody even mentioned that the stock tune has very dangerous lean spots... and that is what is causing it to feel so laggy and unresponsive. If that is true, then it must really be running lean!

This is a lease. I wanted it to be a lease on purpose so I am not tempted to mod the shit out of it.

I am still not 100% sure about the whole lease and reflash. Some people say that there is no way they will be connecting a scanner and checking if it was reflashed. So I sure hope that this is true.

What do you recommend for a reflash? sorry if it is a noob question



As for the shifter. I will look into getting the bushing and rear stay. Thanks.



And about the gas mileage. I've been doing city stop-and-go only and I don't baby it. 16mpg is what it is getting. I only put 100 miles on the car so far so, like you said, maybe it isn't fully broken-in yet.

[AccordWarrior]

Originally Posted by rexload

Thank you for the advice. I was told by a few other WRX owners to get a "stage1" reflash as soon as possible. Somebody even mentioned that the stock tune has very dangerous lean spots... and that is what is causing it to feel so laggy and unresponsive. If that is true, then it must really be running lean!

This is a lease. I wanted it to be a lease on purpose so I am not tempted to mod the shit out of it.

I am still not 100% sure about the whole lease and reflash. Some people say that there is no way they will be connecting a scanner and checking if it was reflashed. So I sure hope that this is true.

What do you recommend for a reflash? sorry if it is a noob question

My understanding is that the dealer can see if you've been reflashed, but they will have to go searching for it. My opinion is if you have left the exhaust untouched, especially the downpipe, you're going to have a better chance if you flash it back to OEM and bring it in if you need service.

There's a lot of debate on whether an open source tune or an AP is the better way to go. The AP has a higher entry cost but is more user friendly in that the base maps that are preloaded will work on 99% of the cars and you have the ease of switching back and forth between the stock, valet, and Staged maps. An open source tune will have a much cheaper buy-in, but you're going to need to either find a solid basemap or you'll need to get a dyno tune, which you can argue is on the useless side for the Stage 1 tune.

I'd say just stick with the AP if you don't plan on swapping out the DP, but if you are going to do that route, you can save money with an open source tune. The AP has a lot of neat features that you can't access otherwise.

The tough thing is that you are leasing the car and you don't seem to be set on purchasing it. I don't know if I'd go through the pain of swapping everything out.

As for the shifter. I will look into getting the bushing and rear stay. Thanks.

IMHO it's one of the best sub-$100 modifications you can do to the car that will make it easier to live with daily. The rear stay is a total pain to get at (it's above the driveshaft) and Subarus are notorious for every bolt managing to crossthread.

And about the gas mileage. I've been doing city stop-and-go only and I don't baby it. 16mpg is what it is getting. I only put 100 miles on the car so far so, like you said, maybe it isn't fully broken-in yet.

I wouldn't worry yet...it definitely is on the low side, but keep an eye on it.

[rexload]

Originally Posted by AccordWarrior

My understanding is that the dealer can see if you've been reflashed, but they will have to go searching for it. My opinion is if you have left the exhaust untouched, especially the downpipe, you're going to have a better chance if you flash it back to OEM and bring it in if you need service.

There's a lot of debate on whether an open source tune or an AP is the better way to go. The AP has a higher entry cost but is more user friendly in that the base maps that are preloaded will work on 99% of the cars and you have the ease of switching back and forth between the stock, valet, and Staged maps. An open source tune will have a much cheaper buy-in, but you're going to need to either find a solid basemap or you'll need to get a dyno tune, which you can argue is on the useless side for the Stage 1 tune.

I'd say just stick with the AP if you don't plan on swapping out the DP, but if you are going to do that route, you can save money with an open source tune. The AP has a lot of neat features that you can't access otherwise.

The tough thing is that you are leasing the car and you don't seem to be set on purchasing it. I don't know if I'd go through the pain of swapping everything out.



IMHO it's one of the best sub-$100 modifications you can do to the car that will make it easier to live with daily. The rear stay is a total pain to get at (it's above the driveshaft) and Subarus are notorious for every bolt managing to crossthread.



I wouldn't worry yet...it definitely is on the low side, but keep an eye on it.

I don't plan on purchasing the car at this point. I do enjoy driving it but I know if I purchase it, then I will mod it and it will more than likely turn into a moneypit.

Right now I am running stock exhaust with the axle-back removed. IMO it sounds perfect this way with no drone. Right now I am planning on keeping it this way with the stock downpipe and everything else. Like you said, it will be a pain swapping everything out if I have to take it to the dealer.

So COBB AP is what I'll be getting then as the pre-loaded maps seem to be pretty safe from what everyone is saying. I would rather be on the safe side. I'll do the AP stage1 and then see where I want to go from there. I have a feeling that it should make me happy.

Thanks again.

[PUMASTi]

Looks like my little brother. Nice car, the COBB AP is definitely the way to go. Take a look at mine maybe you'll get some ideas lol.

[accord93racer]

Nice car. I have a 2012 Lightning Red hatch that I love. I think it feels quick and passing on the highway is a breeze. See if you can find a mod friendly dealer, some dealers are more lenient on mods than others, all the dealers around me are strict about no mods.

If you flash it and have any engine problems the dealer more than likely will deny your warranty claim. They don't have to go "searching" to see if it has been flashed, the ECU has a flash counter so they can see how many times it has been flashed.

Check out NASIOC if you haven't already, there is some good info on that site.

Rumor is that Subaru is working on a reflash because so many people complain about the stock tune.

[F20A CB7]

Looks like a sprty ass ride. I'm happy 4 u.

[rexload]

Originally Posted by tonymontana1204

Looks like my little brother. Nice car, the COBB AP is definitely the way to go. Take a look at mine maybe you'll get some ideas lol.

Thanks man.

Originally Posted by accord93racer

Nice car. I have a 2012 Lightning Red hatch that I love. I think it feels quick and passing on the highway is a breeze. See if you can find a mod friendly dealer, some dealers are more lenient on mods than others, all the dealers around me are strict about no mods.

If you flash it and have any engine problems the dealer more than likely will deny your warranty claim. They don't have to go "searching" to see if it has been flashed, the ECU has a flash counter so they can see how many times it has been flashed.

Check out NASIOC if you haven't already, there is some good info on that site.

Rumor is that Subaru is working on a reflash because so many people complain about the stock tune.

Yea, I understand now that the dealer can see how many times it's been reflashed. I am going to just accept the risk and get the Cobb AP.
I am still trying to decide on whether I should do stage1 or stage2 as I would rather just do it all at once and reflash just once with one of the Cobb maps.

I have a feeling that "stage2" with a true 3" turb0-back and no cats will be obnoxiously loud even for me. So I am still toying with the idea of stock cat-back with an exhaust cut-out.

Originally Posted by F20A CB7

Looks like a sprty ass ride. I'm happy 4 u.

Thanks



............

While I am still trying to decide on what performance mods to do first, I think the first mod is going to be Flapatax mud flaps

[accord93racer]

Look into Nameless Performance. They make some really nice exhaust pieces for Subarus. Their stuff looks almost like a work of art. Do a catted downpipe. I have heard a lot of complaints about non catted DPs.

Hella horns, Rally Armor mud flaps, tint, and a Whiteline rear sway bar with endlinks were my first mods. Trying to decide what I want to do next. I am going to wait until I am out of warranty to do any power mods.

[rexload]

Originally Posted by accord93racer

Look into Nameless Performance. They make some really nice exhaust pieces for Subarus. Their stuff looks almost like a work of art. Do a catted downpipe. I have heard a lot of complaints about non catted DPs.

Hella horns, Rally Armor mud flaps, tint, and a Whiteline rear sway bar with endlinks were my first mods. Trying to decide what I want to do next. I am going to wait until I am out of warranty to do any power mods.

Nameless Performance ?

$650 for a 2 foot long pipe that is going to be out of sight anyway.....
Rather than dropping that sort of money into basic mods, I think I would just buy a more expensive car.

[dhill_cb7]

Very nice pick up i have always been fond of subi's.

How many miles?

[rexload]

Originally Posted by dhill_cb7

Very nice pick up i have always been fond of subi's.

How many miles?

thanks.

how many miles? 7 when I got it, now almost 900. )