Honda Accord Exhaust Cutout

[wed3k]

You can install the cutout after the cat as well.

there's honestly not much room after the cat.

[deevergote]

Ah yeah, I keep forgetting it's not just a straight run.

[greatestmexican]

if i was u id best get the electric one..cuz u dnt wana be going down under the car doing it manually every time..just cut it on and cut it off when u like...but be careful of how the pigs from where ur from think of it...cuz sum are assholes and pull u over for that...cutouts usually for muscle cars id say...but i got a cuzin put one in his honda and ...lol yea u should get the cut outs...not that many ppl really have it on a accord....but its pretty chill. i was going to do it for my honda as well...but it cant even rev past 4000 rpms...and idk whats wrong wit it so whats the point lol

[wed3k]

if i was u id best get the electric one..cuz u dnt wana be going down under the car doing it manually every time..just cut it on and cut it off when u like...but be careful of how the pigs from where ur from think of it...cuz sum are assholes and pull u over for that...cutouts usually for muscle cars id say...but i got a cuzin put one in his honda and ...lol yea u should get the cut outs...not that many ppl really have it on a accord....but its pretty chill. i was going to do it for my honda as well...but it cant even rev past 4000 rpms...and idk whats wrong wit it so whats the point lol

yea, id try and get that fixed.

[rexload]

get a generic header on ebay, find a buddy who can weld
cut off the collector of the ebay header and weld a 2.5" collector on it. then split the 2.5" pipe into two. one end going to the stock exhaust and the other to any ~2.5" throttle body(from junkyard).
connect a vacuum diaphragm to the throttle body spring (like the diaphragm found on the F22A6/H23/H22 intake manifolds)
connect the diaphragm to a vacuum source via an electronic check valve(like the honda evap purge solenoid)
connect the check valve to a switch = you will be able to activate the exahust cutout via a switch on your dash

or even better, bisimoto header + what I described above = +30-40 horsepower in the topend easy

[rave93]

if i was u id best get the electric one..cuz u dnt wana be going down under the car doing it manually every time..just cut it on and cut it off when u like...but be careful of how the pigs from where ur from think of it...cuz sum are assholes and pull u over for that...cutouts usually for muscle cars id say...but i got a cuzin put one in his honda and ...lol yea u should get the cut outs...not that many ppl really have it on a accord....but its pretty chill. i was going to do it for my honda as well...but it cant even rev past 4000 rpms...and idk whats wrong wit it so whats the point lol

Doesnt sound to hot bro haha

yea, id try and get that fixed.

x2

get a generic header on ebay, find a buddy who can weld
cut off the collector of the ebay header and weld a 2.5" collector on it. then split the 2.5" pipe into two. one end going to the stock exhaust and the other to any ~2.5" throttle body(from junkyard).
connect a vacuum diaphragm to the throttle body spring (like the diaphragm found on the F22A6/H23/H22 intake manifolds)
connect the diaphragm to a vacuum source via an electronic check valve(like the honda evap purge solenoid)
connect the check valve to a switch = you will be able to activate the exahust cutout via a switch on your dash

or even better, bisimoto header + what I described above = +30-40 horsepower in the topend easy

well bismoto headers seem quite pricey D:
might just stick to my f22a4 header haha
thanks for the input guys!

[Kurobei]

Ah yeah, I keep forgetting it's not just a straight run.

Nope it's possible deev. You can remove or bang up the heat shield but really it all depends on what style Cutout you get. I was going to get a "QTP style" DMH,Badlandz etc. but the only thing that stopped me from doing this was clearance issues these had and plus they tend to take a shit after awhile due to the puny motor and non-knife edged throttle plates. This is one reason that causes the exhaust leaks because too much carbon buildup over time causes the throttle door to "pack deposits" making it hard for it to close all the way.

They made several revisions but even with a stronger motor, it gets heat soaked and not everyone tends to get under the car to properly maintain the valve. Another reason why some of these kits aren't good is because you can "burn up" the motor from over working it. Some come with a rocker style switch so you have to count when the valve is closed or open... until recently there is controllers that time the opening and closing of the unit...

I ordered a custom 2.5 inch one and got it jethot coated. It bypasses my cat completely. It really helps if you have a 3-piece header like a Fujitsubo for example rather than the typical 2-piece. I wasn't fortunate with my header so I opted to modify my 2.5 exhaust. (cheapy Tsudo $200 mid-section exhaust anyways) and moved my cat a little further back to fit. I was so happy with the unit I bought a 3" waiting for a K-teller setup when the nasty motor finally goes in.....