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Adjustable Ball-Joints and Poly Bushings

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    Adjustable Ball-Joints and Poly Bushings

    I'm looking at purchasing Eibach Pro-kit Springs and the website is suggesting I purchase the Eibach Adjustable Front ball joints, along with the Eibach Adjustable rear control arms.

    It doesn't seem unreasonable to have these parts on the car for correction of Camber issues (I dislike tilty-wheel nonsense) and the rear arms have a decent range of adjustment=+3.5 to -2.0.

    There are two different front kits however, with differing adjustment ranges. The first is +1.5 to +3.0, the other is +1.5 to -1.5. Which of these better suited to a SUSP utilizing an Eibach Pro-kit and Koni Sport Yellows? I believe the springs settle at 1.5 inches max so do I even need an adjustable ball joint at all? I prefer the aesthetics of an upright wheel and tire so I figured it might be beneficial.

    Also I'm looking at purchasing either an Energy Suspension master bushing kit (Part #355-16-18108G) or a Prothane one (Part #311-8-2013-BL) but the Prothane kit is a little over twice the money. I've heard really good things about both companies so I'm a little lost as to why Prothane's kit costs an arm and a leg compared to ES.

    Thanks in advance y'all.

    #2
    To answer your question about the bushing kit, the reason the Prothane is more expensive it because it includes bushings used for the rear of the car as well. Where as Energy Suspension only does the front. If you look at what all is included in the kit, it will list all the items.
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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      #3
      Understood, I just figured they both included the rear. Does ES just not do the rear bushings at all or do they make you buy 'em separately? I didn't see a kit labeled for the rear by them on JEGS. If that's the case I'm willing to pay for the Prothane kit just for simplicity's sake.

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        #4
        Bushing Madness!

        So I went through this task on my cb7.. I purchased the energy master kit, Moog front and rear lower ball joints, spc camber correction kits (balljoints for front, and angled arms for the rear) and Hardrace rear trailing arm bushings.

        My guess is you want to improve the stiffness and rigidity of your cb7 like I do.

        I have been thoroughly researching this topic for quite some time... and found alot of products offered, just continue the search.

        I would recommend either FatFourCustoms or Cheddasauto for rear LCA's they come pressed with new bushings and are made of high grade 6061 billet aluminum. That will make things a bit easier as they are plug and play.

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          #5
          Front upper I use with koni yellow/ground control coilover setup with mild 1.5" drop works great..

          https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...AFrom&to=USATo



          Rear upper I use with same setup but about 1.25" drop in rear..

          https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...AFrom&to=USATo

          It is expensive directly from SPC, but can be had cheaper just shop them around

          Both work great and are easy to install, Id recommend a four wheel alignment after installation though..

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            #6
            Awesome, thank you so much for the info. She definitely could use a bunch more stiffness, I'm pretty sure every piece of rubber on this car is rotted or blown out. It's pretty roly-poly in the twisties. Beyond the poly kit she'll be getting components from ESP, Cheddas and Suspension Techniques as well. The Cheddas LCA's are on my list for sure. I'm having trouble with the link for the SPC stuff but I will check it when I get home. Thank you again!

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              #7
              The Pro-Kit is pretty mild both in terms of ride height and spring rate. While a camber kit is never a bad choice, it’s not really necessary with your chosen parts. A good toe alignment, new bushings, and a refresh of any worn components will be sufficient. You shouldn’t experience any noticeable inner-tire wear due to the very slight increase in negative camber you’d get from that setup. You definitely won’t be able to see the tilt.






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                #8
                good idea using cheddahs for the lca's, as they are currently on sale for $280 i believe..

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                  #9
                  If you did need to adjust for camber on the rear, and I don't think you will, you can buy Moog or AC Delco adjustable rear upper control arms on Rockauto for dirt cheap. I have the Moogs. They stand up to endurance racing just fine and they are easy to adjust. I think they were under $50 each.
                  ==========================
                  1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
                  1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
                  Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
                  Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
                  M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
                  Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

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                    #10
                    I actually have a set of used Eibach Pro kit springs I'm selling. Was asking $80, but throw me an offer. PM me if you're interested.

                    And I agree with Deev. You should be totally fine without a camber kit. The 1.2" drop the Prokit gives wont impact the camber much at all. Anything more than a 2" drop is where you start to see a lot more camber getting added.

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                      #11
                      Yeah, they've been on sale for a cool minute, hoping they stay that way till I get to them. I'm gonna piece the suspension together part by part and then install it all at once if possible. I don't get a lot of free time so I'm thinking it makes sense to maybe do the build in chunks.

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