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Suspension help

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    Suspension help

    I don't go to the track because they simply aren't any near me, and I don't like my stock setup and there aren't any lowering springs that will even out the rake of the car. So I did some Mild research and was wondering if what i found would suffice for looks and somewhat performance out of a DD.

    Truhart Sport Shocks w/ Megan coilover sleeves.

    Don't rail me too hard if that's a dumb question.

    #2
    Stay away from junk like Truhart or Megan. Your life rides on your suspension. It is MORE important to have quality suspension for a street car than it is for a track car. A track car is on a closed course, with people that are prepared for other drivers to lose control (or at least they should be.) There are also medical professionals on hand to rush to the aid of any driver involved in an accident. On the street, innocent bystanders are relying on you and your vehicle to act as they anticipate. If your braking or handling is compromised because you chose some low-grade garbage suspension components, someone could get seriously hurt.

    There actually is no "rake" in the stock suspension. The car sits level. The difference lies in the sheet metal of the front and rear wheel wells. Most quality lowering springs will still lower the front a little more than the rear to make things look a bit more even.
    Stick to quality brands... brands made by companies that actually have suspension expertise, rather than cheap Chinese copycat junk with little to no quality control.
    For springs, go for H&R, Vogtland, Tein, or Eibach. Pick springs that meet your needs in terms of ride height and spring rate. If you don't know much about those things, do some reading before you buy. You will need shocks that are compatible with the ride height and spring rate. Not all shocks are going to be. In fact, there are even some performance upgrade shocks that are not compatible. Koni Sport ("Yellows") are the standard for most lowering applications. They will handle pretty much anything you throw at them. Cheaper options usually aren't good for anything lower than 1.5", or a spring rate higher than 15&#37; over stock... and about 95% of all lowering springs available for these cars exceed those limits. Even the mild ones.

    If you MUST have adjustable height, the only sleeves I would suggest would be Ground Control, which uses high quality materials and Eibach springs. You can order them in a variety of spring rates, and they even have some made specifically to work with Koni shocks. Personally, I believe that if you do not have the need, knowledge, or tools to properly adjust your car's ride height, that should be left to the engineers.

    If you want to get fancy and get fully adjustable full-bodied coilovers, there are MANY options. Most of them are cheap Chinese/Taiwanese garbage that are likely to break on you, if they ever function properly at all. They are not safe. Unfortunately, they are very popular. Avoid junk like Emusa, Raceland, Truhart, D2, Megan Racing, and anything else that is of a similar price point. Stick to quality, such as KW or Tein (beware of Tein knockoffs... they do exist, and they're no better than the dangerous cheap junk.) Again, I believe that you shouldn't be messing with adjustable stuff if you lack the need, tools, or knowledge... but you can make your own decision there, if you believe you can do it better than the suspension engineers that designed static springs and shocks.

    I don't mean to come across as mean or rude... I've just given this advice a few dozen times, and I find that if I'm not firm with it, the response is usually "my friend has brand X and they work good so I'm going to get them."
    Be safe. Lowering your car safely and correctly is a good deal more expensive than lowering your car with cheap dangerous junk. There is a reason why there is a noticeable price gap, and it's not because the more expensive stuff is for race cars. There honestly are no mainstream "race" parts for these cars. Nothing beyond stuff intended for a street driven car that sees an occasional track day.






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      #3
      I appreciate your reply i will probably get some quality lowering springs, i dont mean to come off as pesky but do you know of any lowering springs that make the car level, or point me to the right thread. Thanks for your advice it was very helpful!

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        #4
        The car should already be level in stock form. Many mild lowering springs, such as H&R Sport, will lower the front by 1.8" and the rear by 1.5". It will make the wheel gap look more even from front to back, but it will actually be giving the car a very slight forward rake. Just about every spring on the market will lower the front more than the rear.






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          #5
          Make sure to go with some quality shocks also. Stock shocks wont last long on any lower spring, even if it is on softer lowering springs. I would suggest saving up and doing a quality lowering setup the first time. I did a budget lowering setup the first time (Tein s-tech w/ budget shocks), and then a quality setup 2 years after(H&R cup kit). BIG difference!. I wished i didnt waste my money on the first setup, but it was a learning process. As Devergote suggested, your LIFE depends on the suspension, so dont cheap out. You usually get what you pay for in terms of suspension.

          Members' Ride Thread :http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...82#post2939682
          My CB7 Tribute Vid..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqWFstSzLH8
          Track ready EK..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoYKsoL0i7M

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            #6
            Basically echoing what everyone else said. Quality is a must.

            My first setup was Eibach Sportline springs, with KYB GR2 shocks. The GR2s were OEM replacement shocks, and lasted only 6 months before starting to lose some performance. The Sportlines though dropped the car nice and even. If you were to run these springs, at the very least you'd need a shock like the Koni STR.T shocks.



            But with what you'd pay for new springs/shocks, you're better off just buying a Tein Street Basis or Street Advance setup for just a bit more. You have height adjustability, so you can play with how you want the car to sit. Only downside of Tein is they aren't meant for extreme drops.



            For my second/current setup, I did MUCH more researching, and ended up getting Koni Yellow shocks with Ground Control coilover sleeves with custom (stiffer spring rates). I'm also running FFC extended top hats for extra shock travel. I plan on tracking the car this year, and I chose this setup as a good mix of performance, which still retaining a good amount of comfort (ride quality). I had it for almost 4 years now, and have been nothing but happy. Well worth the money. Hands down the best setup you can get for about $1k.

            Here's the car now with the Koni/GCs, lots of other suspension work, Volk wheels, front bbk, rear disc conversion, just waiting for to start my H22 and 5-speed w/ LSD swap
            Last edited by Corweena; 02-06-2017, 03:10 AM.

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              #7
              I got my Bilstein shocks from 4wheelonline last month. I noticed that the ride is firmer and handling is ok, though can't say it is superior to Koni. I know others are happy with their Koni's.

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                #8
                Overall, Bilstein is regarded as being a better quality product than Koni by most. For our purposes, the difference is probably negligible. Most CB7 owners opt for Koni over Bilstein because the Konis are often cheaper, and they offer adjustable settings. The Bilsteins aren't cheap, and they aren't adjustable.
                Still, I'm a big believer in "if you don't have the need, knowledge, and tools to properly adjust your suspension, you don't need an adjustable suspension." Therefore, Bilstein is definitely a good choice.

                You might want to look into some slightly more aggressive springs if you put the Bilsteins on your old stock springs. Believe it or not, a stiffer spring rate and slightly lower ride height would probably end up being more comfortable, as they're probably better matched to the shocks. Some companies make springs that are very near OE spec, but a little stiffer and a little shorter (lowering your car .75" to 1")






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                  #9
                  Yeah, quality wise, the Bilstein is technically above Koni. However, Koni has adjustable rebound damping, and can handle a higher spring rate. Bilstein only makes their B6 shocks for the Accord....if the B8s were available, then those would definitely be a great option, as they are designed with stiffer suspension components, and a lower ride height in mind.

                  Koni's are cheaper, more readily available, and offer more flexibility, and have a killer warranty service. Hence why most people go with them. Plus Ground Control makes a Koni specific kit which is a breeze to install.

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                    #10
                    As far as coilovers go I have had very good luck with ground controls on civics and integras

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                      #11
                      I'm really wanting to get some Function & Form Type 1s
                      I'm faster then a prius

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                        #12
                        Why? Better to buy from companies that actually engineer and manufacture their own stuff.






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                          #13
                          Koni GC. All the way cause the lifetime warranty. Honestly you could use the Megan's with Konis if you wanted a shit whipped kidney.

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                            #14
                            GC makes collars specifically for the koni shock body, though. It's worth the money to go that route. Or just stay static. Nothing wrong with static. Engineers are smart.






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                              #15
                              I have the ground control adjustable sleeves with KYB AGX shocks. I haven't tried the Koni's but I am happy so far with the results. Definitely stiffer than stock but not punishing on the soft setting. Very stiff for street driving on the maximum setting. The adjustable height and damping was appealing to me. I also like the fact that if the dampers wear out I can always just buy another one and replace it.

                              Keep in mind tho that the KYB's, like Deev said, aren't recommended with more than 1.5" drop.
                              1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



                              Stock F22A6
                              VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

                              H23A1 powered
                              NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
                              CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

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