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Valve Replacement Question

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    Valve Replacement Question

    So I just got myself another 1992 accord today. The problem is it has a bent valve. This will be my first valve job on something bigger than a lawn mower. So I have two questions. First, since I am replacing the one valve, should I replace all of them? Second, if I should replace all of them, what brand should I get?
    Does anyone else have a monthly budget of 10mm sockets or is it just me?

    #2
    Originally posted by Rat View Post
    So I just got myself another 1992 accord today. The problem is it has a bent valve. This will be my first valve job on something bigger than a lawn mower. So I have two questions. First, since I am replacing the one valve, should I replace all of them? Second, if I should replace all of them, what brand should I get?
    I would suspect that whatever bent one valve (out of 20) probably affected the others in some degree. Once you set the head back on it'll be a pain to have to pull the head again and replace one(s) that could have been done al in one go. This may cost you additional in the form of having the head surfaced again. I'd check your valve seals too. If you aren't hung up on using oem parts you can find new intake and exhaust valves for a reasonable price and valve seals are cheap enough it'd be silly to not have the added security of new ones installed.

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      #3
      Thats a great point. Thank you. I was looking online and found a full set of valves on ebay for around 85. Does that sound about right as far as pricing goes, or are those kinda s*it?
      Does anyone else have a monthly budget of 10mm sockets or is it just me?

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        #4
        Here are the ebay listing for reference...

        http://www.ebay.com/itm/VITON-VALVE-...dUMKL3&vxp=mtr

        http://www.ebay.com/itm/112073879110
        Does anyone else have a monthly budget of 10mm sockets or is it just me?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rat View Post
          Thats a great point. Thank you. I was looking online and found a full set of valves on ebay for around 85. Does that sound about right as far as pricing goes, or are those kinda s*it?
          I checked the links and I haven't heard of that company before (that's not to say they are bad). I know on the low side you are looking at about $90 bucks going through RockAuto.com assuming you get the cheapest valves they sell (intake and exhaust are sold separately). Honestly I'm the type to use oem parts when I can (unless I'm upgrading or the oem option is discontinued) so I'm not sure of the quality issues with valves that are not oem.

          Hopefully someone else may be able to chime in with more experience on the matter as I don't want to lead you to make a decision that will ruin your engine.

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            #6
            I had a feeling that they were most likely low end. Thanks again for your input. Whats the best way to get OEM honda parts without going to a dealership?
            Does anyone else have a monthly budget of 10mm sockets or is it just me?

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              #7
              Originally posted by Rat View Post
              I had a feeling that they were most likely low end. Thanks again for your input. Whats the best way to get OEM honda parts without going to a dealership?
              Websites such as Hondapartsnow ( and numerous others I can't remember right now ) or possibly have a dealership order and deliver to your door. I think parts not kept in stock have to be picked up in person if you go the dealership route though.

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                #8
                Is sourcing a used head out of the junk yard not an option? Personally i would go this route if i was just changing a head, also i would take this time to check out the piston as valves have a tendency to not bend on their own. you can check head warpage if you have a straightedge and feeler gauges(check horizontal, veritcal and across from corner to corner).
                [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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                  #9
                  My SE rescue project had numerous bent valves. I pulled another head with similar miles from a JY. I did a quick verification that no valves were bent by doing a compression check: pulled the plugs and cranked the engine as fast as I could by hand (1/2 drive ratchet/breaker bar - lots of extensions to get the ratchet beyond the fender helps). I got 40+ psi on each cylinder. I did have the head cleaned/checked and new valve seals installed before putting on the engine.
                  90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                  08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                    #10
                    You know, pulling a new head probably would be easier and cheaper. Thanks guys, didnt even think about that.
                    Does anyone else have a monthly budget of 10mm sockets or is it just me?

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