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Manual Transmission gas mileage?

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    Manual Transmission gas mileage?

    just wanted to take a poll on what people are getting for 5speed transmissions fuel economy. currently im in the process of calculating my fuel economy per tank.

    My cb specs:

    stock F22a1 motor
    5 speed manual
    240,xxx miles
    oil changed at every 3400 miles with royal purple.
    Estimated fuel economy per tank: 250 miles

    Also if anyone has any advice about ways i can increase this please do inform me.

    #2
    There are already numerous threads on here about it.
    '93 H22A 5SPD SE - MRT - DIY-Turbo Sizing

    Comment


      #3
      Most of the posts ive seen are referenced to automatic.

      Comment


        #4
        At this point, gas mileage will vary greatly from person to person. Especially on this site. These cars are over 21 years old at this point. That means the condition of the engine, transmission, suspension, and numerous other components that effect fuel economy are all going to be in different states of disrepair. Add to that various driving styles, locations (flat vs hills, altitude differences, cities vs rural...), and modifications will come into play.

        If you want the best fuel economy you can get, just do these things:
        Do a full tune up (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, engine and transmission oil changes, fuel filter, air filter.)
        Clean your EGR ports.
        Set your ignition timing.
        Have your injectors professionally cleaned and balanced.
        Run ONLY quality fuel (none of that no-name junk from the corner station... use only well-established brands, with considerable buying power.) You don't need to run higher than 87 octane...in fact, it may even do damage if you do... but don't run low-quality fuel.
        Replace any worn suspension components.
        Rebuild your bakes (old calipers especially can drag, causing premature brake wear, and unnecessary strain on your engine.)
        Avoid running wide, sticky tires. Stock 14 or 15 inch wheels with a narrow tire made of a hard compound will provide the least amount of rolling resistance. Fortunately, narrow, hard tires are cheaper than their wider, stickier performance counterparts!
        Shed weight. Any weight you don't need, get rid of it. There is a thread (albeit incomplete...) in the Racing section that shows the weight of many commonly removed parts. The lighter the car, the less power (and therefore fuel) it will take to move it.
        Drive with your windows up as often as possible, with the AC off.
        Keep your speed constant, and stay at or below 55mph as often as possible.
        If you have an owner's manual, look for the suggested shift points. If you do not, I suggest shifting around 3000rpm. No higher.

        Modifying your car will often decrease fuel economy until you tune the ECU... and that gets complicated for most people.






        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
          At this point, gas mileage will vary greatly from person to person. Especially on this site. These cars are over 21 years old at this point. That means the condition of the engine, transmission, suspension, and numerous other components that effect fuel economy are all going to be in different states of disrepair. Add to that various driving styles, locations (flat vs hills, altitude differences, cities vs rural...), and modifications will come into play.

          If you want the best fuel economy you can get, just do these things:
          Do a full tune up (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, engine and transmission oil changes, fuel filter, air filter.)
          Clean your EGR ports.
          Set your ignition timing.
          Have your injectors professionally cleaned and balanced.
          Run ONLY quality fuel (none of that no-name junk from the corner station... use only well-established brands, with considerable buying power.) You don't need to run higher than 87 octane...in fact, it may even do damage if you do... but don't run low-quality fuel.
          Replace any worn suspension components.
          Rebuild your bakes (old calipers especially can drag, causing premature brake wear, and unnecessary strain on your engine.)
          Avoid running wide, sticky tires. Stock 14 or 15 inch wheels with a narrow tire made of a hard compound will provide the least amount of rolling resistance. Fortunately, narrow, hard tires are cheaper than their wider, stickier performance counterparts!
          Shed weight. Any weight you don't need, get rid of it. There is a thread (albeit incomplete...) in the Racing section that shows the weight of many commonly removed parts. The lighter the car, the less power (and therefore fuel) it will take to move it.
          Drive with your windows up as often as possible, with the AC off.
          Keep your speed constant, and stay at or below 55mph as often as possible.
          If you have an owner's manual, look for the suggested shift points. If you do not, I suggest shifting around 3000rpm. No higher.

          Modifying your car will often decrease fuel economy until you tune the ECU... and that gets complicated for most people.
          At the momment my only alteration is an intake. Most of the time i try to keep my rpm at 2000 but of course at the correct speed so i dont have to drive with the gas pedal to the floor. Usually i fill up with 93 octane from BP (only becaue the one a few blocks away is cheapest) . The weight issue i will address. As for my driving style, i am usually a bit rough when traffic is clear and i feel there is not much of a saftey hazzard of other cars, but other than that, my driving is calm and focused. Because i live in a city, traffic is aweful. During this winter, a lot more potholes have formed, taking a toll on my suspension. To be honest, whats bothering me more is a family member who has a fairly new honda pilot is getting 354 miles per tank and $60 to fill up. As of right now im paying $46 and getting 250 per tank.

          Comment


            #6
            why do you fill up with 93 . our cars work good with 87 like deev said . also around 300 is good .
            Last edited by Accord problems; 02-20-2014, 09:39 PM.
            this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST

            Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .

            Car safety checks

            Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
            How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
            Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7

            Fluid Capacities

            Comment


              #7
              The Pilot also has a 20 gallon tank...

              Stop putting 93 in there. You don't need it. Higher octane is not "better". It just burns differently. You could actually be doing damage to your engine, running fuel it wasn't designed for. Run 87 octane. BP is good.






              Comment


                #8
                ok so in my coupe i get 170 miles to empty at 6 gallons..our tanks hold what 15 gallons soo by my math thats 170 x 2.5 = 425.if i had to put a number on it id probably get around 350/400 miles till empty..hope i did that right lmao

                my new turbo build

                Comment


                  #9
                  I have an f22 a6. I check my milage every week, so much I don't use a calculator anymore. I get a couple more mpg using 87 vs 93. Yup better mpg with 87 maybe 2 mpg better. I lose a couple mpg in the winter especially this winter when it was single digits for two months. Remember changes you make for more mpg might not take effect until the next fill up, the ecu has to run a cycle first. At least for me. I also had to change my thermostat about a year and a half ago and grabbed an mpg or two from that. This one runs just a little bit hotter. I would not recommend doing that on purpose, but it does work. So now I get about 30-32 mpgs. That's 400-440 per fill up depending on when I pull in. At least 350 of those are highway miles every time, so basically all highway.
                  ......father in law has it back again. Time to shine

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I currently get 27. Mixed highway and city. I have a prelude tranny and tuned the car myself, with a shit ton of mods.

                    There are many posts on this. The best advice to get better gas mileage is to tune up the car and drive with a light foot.

                    steve

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Original F22A1 + H2U5 = 400mi/per tank AT LEAST.

                      My F22A1 is super tired with 320k+ miles on it, same for the trans, yet it still manages over 32mpg highway and averages 28-30mpg mixed driving. I use common sense driving and keep my foot out of it for the most part. Intake manifold was thoroughly cleaned at 300k and EGR is blocked off. Good O2 sensor, ECU not throwing any codes. Mods are basic; CAI and 2.25in exhaust with a 4-2-1 DC header and DP.

                      My gas gauge is non-functional after someone stole my CB a while back...and i KNOW that with a full tank i can get AT LEAST 450miles and then some, before it starts to sputter. If you're getting less than 300mi/per tank something is wrong or you drive like a raped ape all the time.


                      Form.Follows.Function

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have had 3 CBs... they all averaged 20 MPG in NYC. I rarely got more than ~320 a tank from what I remember

                        My Z now gets anywhere from 18 to 26 MPG depending on where/how I drive

                        Where/how you drive is also a huge factor. City driving sucks


                        Originally posted by lordoja
                        im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                        Comment


                          #13
                          First off, thanks everyone for your input. Second, the accord has a 17 gallon capacity. i always thought 93 octane was better because octane rating is determined by the fuels ability to not pre-ignite under high temperature.In my defense, i work on aircraft engines that use high octane fuels. To my understanding a fuel that can withstand more heat will allow the combustion process to happen fully allowing me to get the most power out of fuel. I fully understand that our cars were made for 87 octane i will start using it.But it just makes me wonder wonder why it would be bad. Another thing i want to check out is my spark plugs. I havent done a full tune up on the car as yet but plan to. But if i was to replace my spark plugs, does anyone recommend any good brand for fuel efficiency. Now i know everyone wont see eye to eye but im just looking for quality from sites like rockauto that the fellow CB7 community is familiar with. In a nutshell, i want my car running the best it can with 200,000 + miles on it. It doesnt need to run like a GTR, just get me through winter efficiently.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            NGK wires and plugs. I use Iridium. 5fix. Thats not what they are but thats how I remember them, I believe that is the number for the f22.
                            I also like Beck arnley cap and rotor they have served me well and A little less than the dealer.

                            My car f22 version ran better with 89 than 87. I don't know why. But It knocked some with 87 up hillls.

                            steve

                            Comment


                              #15
                              NGK or Denso plugs will work well. Basic copper plugs will probably be fine. Platinum or Iridium if you want to get fancy (but all they're likely to do is just increase the plug change interval.)
                              Just be sure to gap them properly. Even the pre-gapped ones can be off, so you'd be wise to check them before installing.

                              Also, read your old plugs to get an idea of what's going on in the combustion chambers. Pull the new ones after a couple weeks to see if they tell you anything important.






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