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My car is having a difficulty maintaining continuity to the main relay

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    My car is having a difficulty maintaining continuity to the main relay

    If you have this problem, this is what I did, and what solved the problem

    Replaced main relay----------NOTHING
    Replaced ignition switch------NOTHING
    Replaced the ECU------------PROBLEM SOLVED

    I would atleast always start with the main relay


    and the rest of the thread is a bit pointless, but read on if you like
    Thanks to all who replied

    94 accord EX, (f22b1 vtec automatic, 219,000 miles)
    My car is having problems maintaining a continuity to the main relay circuit. This began last week on sunday.

    my main symptom is while the key is in the ignition and in the accessories position, the CEL is flickering, and you can hear the main relay clicking with each flicker. This problem seems to come and go.

    Since sunday night of last week, I have replaced the main relay, (new), and the ignition switch, (also new). replacing the main relay, (at first) had no effect, but two days later I had no symptoms in driving the car back to my apartment, (10 miles at night), where I decided to replace the ignition switch, thinking that it might have gone bad. Afterwards, I went 120 miles, (over a period of 10 days), without seeing a symptom.

    But today, (10 days after last sunday), the CEL flickered again, and is not staying on long enough to prime the car. Though it did breifly fire up, then died as the CEL flickered again, and now continues to flicker.

    My starter does not seem to have any problem at all, I can crank the starter all day if I wanted to, and my battery, (optima yellowtop), and alternator are both only 6 months old. 6 months ago my alternator went bad, (it was puting out upward of 300% of normal voltage), since it was still only puting out the normal amount of amperage, it fried several things, including my then 2 year old yellowtop battery, gauge cluster, radio, every single lightbulb, and my tcu and ecu. I replaced all of those things, most of the major components from junkyard aquisitions. Also my grounds are pretty well connected. Three months ago, I replaced my heater core, and was able to see that all of my wires under the dash look to be in decent condition, and I am 95% certain all wire connectors are firmly connected.

    My current TCU/ECU are from the junkyard, I am wondering if any of those could be the culprit.

    I tried to be as detailed as I thought might be helpful.
    I appreciate the time anyone takes to read any of this, and thank everyone in advance for their replys.
    Ken
    Last edited by KB7; 03-17-2012, 08:11 AM.
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    #2
    bump... Usually It's easy to search this site for any symptom I exerience, but the specific syptoms I am having, coincide with just having a CEL flashing, or throwing a code. Sadly when I am not experienceing any problems, I am not throwing any codes, and when I am potentially throwing a code, I cannot check the code because I can't get the main relay to calm down long enough to pull a code.

    It's possible I am experiencing the same problem as this member
    Last edited by KB7; 03-01-2012, 09:09 PM.
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    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by KB7 View Post
      bump... Usually It's easy to search this site for any symptom I exerience, but the specific syptoms I am having, coincide with just having a CEL flashing, or throwing a code. Sadly when I am not experienceing any problems, I am not throwing any codes, and when I am potentially throwing a code, I cannot check the code because I can't get the main relay to calm down long enough to pull a code.

      It's possible I am experiencing the same problem as this member
      1.check the connections on the back of the altenator . make sure you have a good clean connection this means look in the little tiny holes for the plug . 2. check for loose connection all over the car like bad grounds. 3 try to pull ecu codes there maybe some stored . 4 check for any kinda short through out the hole car ( this includes beehind the car stereo and under the dash) . then report back .
      this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST

      Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .

      Car safety checks

      Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
      How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
      Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7

      Fluid Capacities

      Comment


        #4
        Yeah i was gonna say the same as the above statement. I had same issue not lonfg ago and it turned out to be a bad ground off the engine. replaced the ground wire and my car hasn't had a problem since.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ugafan001 View Post
          Yeah i was gonna say the same as the above statement. I had same issue not lonfg ago and it turned out to be a bad ground off the engine. replaced the ground wire and my car hasn't had a problem since.
          mine had similar problem and adventually it knocked out all my inside lights , cluster stoped working then there was a no start no cranke issue . it turnd out to be a short beehind my car stereo. it was the wire to control the dimmer on the stereo.
          this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST

          Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .

          Car safety checks

          Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
          How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
          Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7

          Fluid Capacities

          Comment


            #6
            I might've missed it. Did you pull the CEL?
            MRT
            37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
            30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
            27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

            Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

            Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
            Originally posted by Tippey764
            I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
            Originally posted by deevergote
            sneaky motherfucker

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by GeoffM View Post
              I might've missed it. Did you pull the CEL?
              My threads tend to have ALOT to read; I usualy 'over-explain' every thing I experience, (you would not like to hear me tell a story in person). I appreciate the effort anyone takes to simply read any thread I make.

              this excerpt is from my second post about 16 hours after my original post

              Originally posted by KB7 View Post
              . . . Usually It's easy to search this site for any symptom I exerience, but the specific syptoms I am having, coincide with just having a CEL flashing, or throwing a code. Sadly when I am not experienceing any problems, I am not throwing any codes, and when I am potentially throwing a code, I cannot check the code because I can't get the main relay to calm down long enough to pull a code. . . .
              I have not been able to check for codes because as of thursdy night (3-1-12), My car is still not being able to maintain a continuity long enough to even find out if there is a Code stored.
              Last edited by KB7; 03-01-2012, 10:59 PM.
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              Comment


                #8
                No need to quote 'Accord problems" & "ugafan001";

                Thank you both for sharing your expieriences. Tomorow when I get home from school, (by bus), I'll pull out my radio, (which coincidentally I just installed 3 weeks ago), and check the wires behind it. Since my alternator blew my previous aftermarket radio, (6 months ago), I had no radio, so my current problem could be related.

                In response to the other suggestion, although both my battery grounds are new, (and clean), as of my alternater incident, I'll check diagrams for other grounds and give them a look.

                Thanks to all who have taken any time to simply read my thread, I truly appreciate it
                _

                Comment


                  #9
                  An update;
                  today, when I got home from school, I put my key in the ignition, and the car started right up. Had no issues at all. I checked for ECU/TCU codes, and there are no codes stored.

                  I pulled out the radio and checked all the wires, I see no issues, and the plugs I can reach all seem secure, (snapped in place).

                  Due to the fact that the problem started less than 2 weeks after I installed my new radio, I have decided to [try to] run my car without the radio in for a little while and see if the problem sticks around: though logic tells me that the radio's electrical circuit should not at all interfere with the operation of the fuel's electrical system.

                  Also I was curious which radio wire harness color is the dimmer wire? I was not aware that one existed for our specific generations?
                  Pdf diagram of honda radio harness
                  _

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was bored at work and went out to mess with my car, no problems going on right now...

                    When I turn the key to accessories, aside from the two clicks under the dash from the main relay, I noticed there is also a click coming from the engine compartment. Is there a second relay that activates when the keys are turned in the ignition? I am guessing perhaps the starter solenoid.
                    _

                    Comment


                      #11
                      running the car without the radio, did not keep the problem away.

                      I found a post on hondatech related to another person experiencing a TCU code 14, the guy pulled his ecu and found a burnt/melted capacitor, so he swapped in a different ecu and never made a post again... One of my capacitors had a bit of green on the wire stub coming down from it, took a closer look and it was not even a solid connection, (broken stub), so maybe, [HOPEFULLY], that is my problem. I have a spare f22b1 ECU but its in someone else's possesion, untill at least monday. Ill throw in my f22a1 ecu just to see if it primes the car. Pretty sure it would easily run my f22b1 although I know VTEC would be disabled, but I dont intend to be that mean to my car. My TCU looks brand spanking new, kind-of wondering if it has actually been re-manned, (pulled it from a junkyard).

                      Something I was beginning beginning to notice, (could have been a coincidence though), I only experience problems late at night, or early in the day. Also when it is cold outside I seem to have more problems.
                      Last edited by KB7; 03-10-2012, 12:28 AM.
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                      Comment


                        #12
                        The next ECU I tried, was bad as well. It was blowing the ECU fuse everytime I tried to prime the car. While planning a day to go to the junkyard, I eventualy decided to not try out my third junkyard ECU in the last 9 months, and just ordered one off of Rockauto.com.

                        The results were amazing. The car started right up, and threw an ECU code. Pulled it, Code 4, Crank Position Sensor. To most this may seem like bad news, thinkong that you may need a new distributor, or to pull it apart and replace the CPS, but honestly I was extrememley excited just to know the darn thing was throwing a code I could pinpoint.

                        I know from experience you can drive without that, so I did. Seems my VTEC is disabled right now, I am hoping it is due to the CPS being faulty, but the reason I am posting is that, aside from a noticeable slight drop in power, the car has NEVER run better.

                        Long story/Thread short BAD ECU
                        _

                        Comment


                          #13
                          GOOD shit i noticed my dist had a cracked sensor in there hmmm

                          Comment

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